ocassionally my one headlight will stick in the down position, but only say once a month. If I turn it on/off multiply times it will come up eventually or if I turn the headlight manual **** 1/2 a turn. Lubrication or adjustment?

 

 

 

He doesn't want to be a bother.

 

Talk about patience.

A headlamp not raising when you turn the switch is typically indicative of a headlight gear needing replacement. What occurs is the insides of the headlight gear itself do not have a physical "limit". What "limits" the open and closed function is the physical rubber isolators on the pivot arm and the power applied to the motor. Since a constant amount of power is applied, eventually over time the gear will turn itself to the point of where the teeth are damaged and it cannot grab onto the worm drive = the symptom you've described of it not raising every so often. Your constant turning on and off the motor turns the gear eventually to a point of grabbing the worm drive.

You can replace the gears quite easy in an afternoon. I have a small walk-through in the Tech section at the link below;

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ick-guide.html

 

 

​​​​​If manually relieving the pressure allows it to work and the motor works fine closing, while not producing the well known "rat-tat-tat" noise, chances are your motor is OK and it is just the bump stops that limit the closing action what needs to be replaced (even though they might look fine to the naked eye). The ones that limit the opening action are probably fine, but I would replace all 4 (it might be a good idea to do the same to the other side as well).

The way the headlights work is not based on predetermined positions. When the headlight doors open or close and they reach the end of their travel, they press against the corresponding rubber bump stops. As a result the current through the headlight motors increases and that is sensed by the Headlight Door Control Module, which in turns cuts power to the motors.

If there are missing or damaged bump stops, or they are scored too deep, the motor might keep working longer than really needed, which could result in over torque. If that happens, the next time the motor is operated it would require more torque to perform the action. That would mean more current than normal and the possible intervention of the Headlight Control Module, shutting again the motor before the door actually moves.

If you need replacements you can order them from here.

In addition to that, there is a TSB for the driver's side headlight motor that calls for shimming it.

 

 

 

I’ve replaced the motor and bump stops. Still have this issue intermittently. Keep us posted if anything works for you.

If you changed motors , there is a good chance that motor to has a nylon driven gear and the steel worm gear tears them up .

New bump stops are like $1.00 apiece and you can get them at the same time as the bronze gear

That headlight fix is by far the easiest repair I have made on my car