C5 Corvette starting problems
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C5 Corvette starting problems
My 2002 C5 Corvette automatic every time I get in it and turn the key it will crank strong but it will NOT start. In order to start the car I need to turn the key on and then off then on and then off on and then off. And then on the 4th try I will crank the starter and it will fire right up. I have zero codes except for P1153defined as Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1 because I installed long tube headers.
The starting problem started the day I installed the long tubes. And no I did NOT remove the starter. I cleaned all the grounds and even installed 2 extra ground straps and a brand new Optima battery 1000 CCAs I removed and cleaned the contact points in the ignition switch a few years ago and only 1 year ago I removed and replaced the switch with a new one. Could the 1000 CCA battery be causing the contact points to blacken? That is what I have always had in the car. I’m thinking about replacing the switch again. But the symptoms are not the same as they were the last time I had switch issues.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump damper in the fuel rail. I did a leak down test on the fuel pump because I thought the fuel line was not staying pressurized but I have and hold 62 psi after 15 minutes it drops only 5 psi. So it is NOT a fuel problem. I only have 82 K miles on the car.
Also I have 2 keys and they both start the car the same, and the "security light" does go off as it should while cranking.
The starting problem started the day I installed the long tubes. And no I did NOT remove the starter. I cleaned all the grounds and even installed 2 extra ground straps and a brand new Optima battery 1000 CCAs I removed and cleaned the contact points in the ignition switch a few years ago and only 1 year ago I removed and replaced the switch with a new one. Could the 1000 CCA battery be causing the contact points to blacken? That is what I have always had in the car. I’m thinking about replacing the switch again. But the symptoms are not the same as they were the last time I had switch issues.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump damper in the fuel rail. I did a leak down test on the fuel pump because I thought the fuel line was not staying pressurized but I have and hold 62 psi after 15 minutes it drops only 5 psi. So it is NOT a fuel problem. I only have 82 K miles on the car.
Also I have 2 keys and they both start the car the same, and the "security light" does go off as it should while cranking.
Last edited by ricksright69; Feb 20, 2019 at 12:30 AM.
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So what you’re saying when it’s not starting properly you have a “CRANKING NO START” ??....but it starts when you cycle the key on and off a few times ??...and NO a 1000 CCA battery will not cause the ignition switch to go bad !!...do you have a multimeter ???...when the car cranks and does not start does the Tach appear to move at all ??...you need to determine if you are getting spark and injector pulse during these cranking no starts !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Feb 20, 2019 at 07:35 AM.
