C5 starts sometimes
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
C5 starts sometimes (FIXED)
So when I turn the key in the ignition, it won’t start no turn over or nothing I have to keep doing it for it finally to turn on barley started today, and never had a problem with it before what could it be. I only have one code on the dash which is c1286 in tcs. Any ideas what it could be. I already checked the fuse it was fine. I’m guessing either starter, or security system, do you guys think the security bypass will resolve this?
*****IT WAS A BAD AC RELAY*****So tried almost everything couldn’t find the problem and I got tired of dealing with it. Took it to a local mechanic ended up paying labor 90$ hour labor for a 50$ relay took them 1.5 hours so you do the math 😢(sigh). But at least it saved me time and the hassle of trying to figure out what it was and now the vette runs so.🤷🏽*♂️
*****IT WAS A BAD AC RELAY*****So tried almost everything couldn’t find the problem and I got tired of dealing with it. Took it to a local mechanic ended up paying labor 90$ hour labor for a 50$ relay took them 1.5 hours so you do the math 😢(sigh). But at least it saved me time and the hassle of trying to figure out what it was and now the vette runs so.🤷🏽*♂️
Last edited by Ricky Torres; Mar 14, 2019 at 09:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
This is the video of me trying to start it
So when I turn the key in the ignition, it won’t start no turn over or nothing I have to keep doing it for it finally to turn on barley started today, and never had a problem with it before what could it be. I only have one code on the dash which is c1286 in tcs. Any ideas what it could be. I already checked the fuse it was fine. I’m guessing either starter, or security system, do you guys think the security bypass will resolve this?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 31
From: Silver Spring MD
Mine was the Ignition Switch
Had crank and no start. Codes pointed to TAC. Spent about 3 months including replacing the TAC. Finally replaced Ignition Switch. Car started immediately.. Might be something else but I would consider replacing the back or electrical part of the Ignition Switch.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I hate to say go throw money at it but I tend to agree with this. The ignition switches in these cars are really not very robust.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
i found the ignition switch for 80$ how much did you end up spending on this?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,127
Likes: 800
From: Espanola New Mexico
Could be ignition switch contact block, but more likely to be your starter solenoid, check your battery cable connections, and check the large battery cable connections at the starter solenoid. Have someone whack the starter with a wooden broom handle while you try to start it. And of course test the starting circuit by connecting DMM to switch terminal on solenoid and ground and check for 12 volts when you turn the key to crank, if meter reads 12 volts then its your solenoid, if 12 volts is not there then it could very well be your ignition switch.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,406
Likes: 3,964
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Now "normally" with a bad ignition switch you'll see a P1518 DTC thrown...the TAC Module isn't receiving enough juice to work ....If I were you I'd clean your battery cables at BOTH (positive AND negative) ends and while you're under the car make sure you have 12 volts at the "S" post at the starter while cranking the car....Connect your multimeter red lead to battery positive and the negative lead to PCM fuse #16....try to start the car again...if the "voltage drop" from battery positive through the ignition switch to fuse 16 exceeds a few tenths of a volt you need a new switch. Doing it this way you'll read the voltage drop directly....if you see 4 volts that means you only have 8 volts depending on system voltage to power up PCM, BCM,TAC module,coil packs, injectors, etc... and that is NOT enough !!...If good you'll have to concentrate on your starter solenoid and/or starter !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Mar 5, 2019 at 01:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Could be ignition switch contact block, but more likely to be your starter solenoid, check your battery cable connections, and check the large battery cable connections at the starter solenoid. Have someone whack the starter with a wooden broom handle while you try to start it. And of course test the starting circuit by connecting DMM to switch terminal on solenoid and ground and check for 12 volts when you turn the key to crank, if meter reads 12 volts then its your solenoid, if 12 volts is not there then it could very well be your ignition switch.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,406
Likes: 3,964
From: Cape Coral, Florida
rt cycle the key a bunch of time
When it doesn't start cycle the key a few times and see it now starts...if it does yes, your ignition switch is faulty....I had to replace my switch a few months ago myself...when it's not starting on your DIC select volts through the "gauges" button....it will probably read low there too...I was reading 7 or 8 volts on mine...you are reading voltage at the IGN 1 circuit at the IPC.
i also for got to add that it does start up after a while of turning it, but is completely random. Also the starter was installed about 2-3 months ago. Would it be best to replace the ignition switch first before the starter? I’ll give all those recommendations you said to try a little later today. But I read somewhere that starters in c5 burn out because of it being to close to the headers, don’t know if this is true though. Kinda sucks cause my c5 is my daily
Last edited by C5 Diag; Mar 7, 2019 at 04:47 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,127
Likes: 800
From: Espanola New Mexico
Have you checked for power on the starter solenoid switch terminal when the car doesn't crank? It's a must to determine what is causing your intermittent no cranking problem and prevent you from just replacing parts. I see that the starter was replaced 2-3 months ago, so I don't believe heat from the headers has cooked the starter solenoid yet, but I would advise you install a heat shield blanket over your starter to prevent problems in the future.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,406
Likes: 3,964
From: Cape Coral, Florida
With the C1286 (Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction) present I'm thinking you might have an issue with the 5 volt reference voltage at the Steering Sensor...unplug the MAF sensor and see if you have 5 volts at the yellow wire with the key ON....if 5 volts low the steering sensor 5 volt reference might be pulling down all the 5 volt references !!...if it does the car won't start...just a guess !!....unplug the EBCM harness and see if the MAF 5 volts returns...you have to cycle the key off and then back on before checking...see if the car starts !!....I'm thinking maybe a CRANKING NO START would be more indicative of this problem but you never know !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Mar 7, 2019 at 05:20 PM.
