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I'm thinking of an under drive pully for my next mod. Seems to me that just reduces the accessories load on the engine right? It shouldn't affect tune / A/F mix, etc..
Somebody jump in here if I'm worng please. :cheers:
I'm thinking of an under drive pully for my next mod. Seems to me that just reduces the accessories load on the engine right? It shouldn't affect tune / A/F mix, etc..
Somebody jump in here if I'm worng please. :cheers:
Yes it will make a difference. When I put my big bore in a couple of weeks ago I removed it b/c my alternator could not keep up w/ my stereo. If you do not have a high end system then go for it. While you are there you might as well do a cam as the pulley is most of the work. :yesnod:
Umm, lets see. Before my big bore I installed a B1 cam + springs/retainers/hardened pushrods and an ASP underdrive pulley with a friend. Nothing to it. The steering rack is by far the hardest to remove. You have to remove it to get the pulley off so why not do a cam??? After the pulley came off we had the new cam installed in less than 20 minutes. The springs were more of a chore b/c we did not really have a good spring compressor. Overall about 4-5 hours total.
Put down 375rwhp(431fwhp) and 370rwtq w/ a mild cam. I would say it is worth it! Especially with a very driveable cam. :yesnod:
A decent cam will give you atleast 35-45rwhp depending if you have headers/ls6 intake/tuning, etc.
I just finished doing mine. My stock balancer had a wobble. It was strongly recommended that I change it out. I figured I might as well go with the ASP. I would not recommend doing this mod just for the heck of it. It is a real PITA to get the sucker out of there. I wish I had the money to do the cam at the same time. I’d take the recommendation of the others. Trust me, if you do only the pulley, it will be a long time before you’ll want to go back in to do the cam.
If I had to do it over again, I would not do all that work just for the pulley (I'd charge the cam on my credit card). :)