Doesn't crank & "charging system failure"?
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Joined: Dec 2017
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Doesn't crank & "charging system failure"?
So lately my car doesn't want to cold start. When the car sits for more than 5 or so hours, when I get in to start it everything lights up and seems to be working fine but when I actually turn the key to start it, it doesnt crank. No starter noise, no sputtering, nothing weird, just does nothing. It warms starts like a charm, even after sitting for a couple hours. I got this message the other day in the DIC saying charging system failure, but I've only noticed it that one time. Voltage meter looks to be about normal when I put the key in. It's a pain in the *** to have to push start it every time I let it get cold, I did enough of that with the ratty RX7 I had as a teenager. This has been going on for maybe 5 days now. Any ideas?
I've tried to look up threads on it but haven't seen anything addressing my specific symptoms.
Thanks in advance!
I've tried to look up threads on it but haven't seen anything addressing my specific symptoms.
Thanks in advance!
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,626
Likes: 4,069
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Do your headlights or interior lights dim when the ignition switch is in START ??...if they don't dim it's not a battery issue !!....I'd see if you have power to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid !!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,138
Likes: 802
From: Espanola New Mexico
Start with having your battery load tested at a nearby auto parts store, after ruling out battery I would test charging system with DMM checking that you have greater then 13.5 volts at the battery with the car running. And finally I would disconnect negative battery terminal and connect DMM in series with battery terminal and cable, select DC milliamp scale and check for excessive current after 15 minutes or so, the DMM should read about 20-25 milliamps of current, if much greater then that you have something staying powered on draining your battery.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 343
From: Shell Point (Crawfordville) Florida
Start with your battery and work down from there --
Check your battery voltage with a VOM (volt meter) or DMM (digital multimeter - same thing, different name).
Check your battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight.
When you turn the key to start, do you have electrical power to anything/everything else? Radio, HVAC fan, lights work, or are they dead too?
Get your battery up to full charge and get it load tested to see if it's any good.
If the battery checks out, then check to see if the starter gets power when you turn on the key to start. You could have a problem with the ignition switch, or with the starter.
Correction to post above - Select the DC 10 AMP scale, not milliamps or you will blow the fuse in the meter. Like was said, disconnect the neg battery terminal, place the leads of the meter between the neg battery post and the ground cable, manually close or lock the doors and wait 15 min for the car to go to sleep and see how many amps you are drawing. It should start out at maybe 6 A and gradually step down to 20-25 ma if you have no excessive current draw. If it's way higher than that then you go to the next step in tracking down which circuit(s) is/are leaking.
Check your battery voltage with a VOM (volt meter) or DMM (digital multimeter - same thing, different name).
Check your battery terminals to make sure they are clean and tight.
When you turn the key to start, do you have electrical power to anything/everything else? Radio, HVAC fan, lights work, or are they dead too?
Get your battery up to full charge and get it load tested to see if it's any good.
If the battery checks out, then check to see if the starter gets power when you turn on the key to start. You could have a problem with the ignition switch, or with the starter.
Correction to post above - Select the DC 10 AMP scale, not milliamps or you will blow the fuse in the meter. Like was said, disconnect the neg battery terminal, place the leads of the meter between the neg battery post and the ground cable, manually close or lock the doors and wait 15 min for the car to go to sleep and see how many amps you are drawing. It should start out at maybe 6 A and gradually step down to 20-25 ma if you have no excessive current draw. If it's way higher than that then you go to the next step in tracking down which circuit(s) is/are leaking.
Last edited by mrlmd; Apr 11, 2019 at 07:37 PM.
