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Same problem here, still haven’t been able to figure this out
Have you tried contacting technical support at Metra? It seems this is not an isolated issue and it would be interesting to see what they have to say about this problem.
It seems that the Accessory Switched power output wire from the AXXESS (red wire) that goes into the headunit is briefly interrupted when the ignition switch is transitioned from ON to Accessory. In addition to that, it also seems there is a delay for RAP to kick in when going from Accessory to OFF, which causes 2 reboots in a row.
What would be good to know is whether this brief interruption when transitioning from one position to the other is inherent to the switch design, or if it is caused by wear-and-tear and therefore "correctable" by replacing the switch.
Otherwise, I already mentioned an idea that perhaps could work. Again, the Disclaimer: I haven't tested it, so swim at your own risk
The goal would be to provide a way to keep the Accessory Switched power to the headunit alive, just for the brief moment that it goes down when the ignition switch transitions from one position to the other. This way the headunit wouldn't go OFF and then back ON. If you connect a large car audio capacitor to the red wire between the AXXESS and the headunit, it might be able to do that.
It should be wired to the Accessory Switched Power output from the AXXESS (red wired) that is connected to the red wire from the headunit.
Please, let us know how it goes.
AMAZEBALLS@!@!@1!!
Now it works all the time. The music/sound/unit never cuts out, no matter if you are turning the key, low RPM, cranking the engine, etc. When I get out of the car it keeps playing for 10 seconds maybe. It's kind of neat to hear the music as you walk away.
Edit...also my ignition switch was new so that was not any part of it. The real issue was the AXXESS and/or C5 momentary voltage cut/sag causing the unit to go into the "2 second boot" standby mode. Adding the cap solved all issues.
Last edited by StickTail; Jun 1, 2019 at 08:48 PM.
AMAZEBALLS@!@!@1!!
Now it works all the time. The music/sound/unit never cuts out, no matter if you are turning the key, low RPM, cranking the engine, etc. When I get out of the car it keeps playing for 10 seconds maybe. It's kind of neat to hear the music as you walk away... ...Adding the cap solved all issues.
I'm so glad my idea worked! Perhaps I should patent it and get some kind of "royalties" from AXXESS/Metra for letting them use it
AMAZEBALLS@!@!@1!!
Now it works all the time. The music/sound/unit never cuts out, no matter if you are turning the key, low RPM, cranking the engine, etc. When I get out of the car it keeps playing for 10 seconds maybe. It's kind of neat to hear the music as you walk away.
Edit...also my ignition switch was new so that was not any part of it. The real issue was the AXXESS and/or C5 momentary voltage cut/sag causing the unit to go into the "2 second boot" standby mode. Adding the cap solved all issues.
Would anyone have a wiring diagram or instructions as to how to wire the capacitor into the headunit circuit?
GCG,
Thanks, guess I wasn't paying attention.
Any idea how hot will a cap pack like this will get and ideas on mounting or securing the CAP pack in the Vet.
An ideal capacitor does not consume power. They store energy as an electrostatic field, and release it into the driving circuit, without dissipating any energy, like a resistor does, in form of heat.
In the real world, there is always some small leakage inside the capacitors and some power consumed by the protection circuits used in this type of large capacitor banks, but nothing remotely comparable to the huge amount of heat generated by the shunt resistors commonly used when changing OEM bulbs to LEDs.
You could use a small project box to secure and electrically isolate the capacitor bank inside. You don't want to accidentally short circuit it, or discharge it to ground!
Yes I got it from Amazon. It ships from China.
To install I soldered a lead to + and -. Connected the + to red wire and - to black feeding head unit.
I board is probably a little smaller than a credit card but and less than an inch thick. I just wrapped it in electrical tape to avoid any ground short and left it back there with the bundle of wires.
Maybe I am misreading but looking back through the posts on this I see two different wiring instructions for the capacitors.
From: GCG: "It should be wired to the Accessory Switched Power output from the AXXESS (red wired) that is connected to the red wire from the head unit."
From Beer:30: "To install I soldered a lead to + and -. Connected the + to red wire and - to black feeding head unit."
Maybe I am misreading but looking back through the posts on this I see two different wiring instructions for the capacitors.
From: GCG: "It should be wired to the Accessory Switched Power output from the AXXESS (red wired) that is connected to the red wire from the head unit."
From Beer:30: "To install I soldered a lead to + and -. Connected the + to red wire and - to black feeding head unit."
Suggestions?
Thanks, Jim
Jim,
It's basically the same, just different wording.
Let me try to clarify this a little:
The capacitor bank has 2 terminal pads to solder wires: one (+) and one (-). I suggest you do that with a red and a black wire, to avoid confusion, and allow enough length to be able to position the capacitors where you want.
The AXXESS adapter has a red wire (ACC Switched Power Output) that is spliced to a red wire from the aftermarket headunit (ACC Switched Power Input). Connect the (+) red wire from the capacitor bank here.
The remaining connection is the (-) black wire from the capacitor bank. It goes to ground, but the best way to do it is to splice it to the black wire (ground) that goes from the AXXESS to the aftermarket headunit.
I'm so glad my idea worked! Perhaps I should patent it and get some kind of "royalties" from AXXESS/Metra for letting them use it 
