Radio
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Radio
The radio (stock) in my '04 Z06 quit working. The fuse was not blown ( #5). I pulled the radio and found that no power was getting to the unit (the main plug has two orange wires and neither were hot with the ignition on). Also, there is a red wire running from the fuse box (attached to the fuse box in a manner that leads me to believe it was a factory afterthought) and terminating at the radio. This wire was not attached to anything and I could tell it never was. I am doubtful that a plug has worked loose somewhere or that a wire is broken. What could be disrupting power to the radio? Could it have something to do with the Bose speaker system?
(Fuse # 28 - Bose speaker, Relay # 45 ,- Bose speaker) -Richard Curtis
(Fuse # 28 - Bose speaker, Relay # 45 ,- Bose speaker) -Richard Curtis
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The radio (stock) in my '04 Z06 quit working. The fuse was not blown ( #5). I pulled the radio and found that no power was getting to the unit (the main plug has two orange wires and neither were hot with the ignition on)...
...Could it have something to do with the Bose speaker system? (Fuse # 28 - Bose speaker, Relay # 45 ,- Bose speaker)
...Could it have something to do with the Bose speaker system? (Fuse # 28 - Bose speaker, Relay # 45 ,- Bose speaker)
By your description, the 2 orange wires you mentioned should be CKT 440 (C1 - Pin 10) Battery Fused Feed and CKT 1044 (C2 - Pin 16) Serial Data Bus.
Circuit 440 is always hot through Fuse 5 and it feeds the radio and the trunk CD player. If you didn't find power at C1-Pin10 and Fuse 5 is not blown, you need to trace back the circuit to find where it is broken. Do you have power at both ends of Fuse 5?
I mentioned Fuse 24 above just to be thorough because it protects Circuit 40, not Circuit 440.
Last edited by GCG; May 29, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
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The diagrams are very useful - thank you. It looks as though there is a plug at the back of the fuse panel for fuse #5 and the wire runs directly to the C1 plug at the radio. So either the wire is broken ( not likely ) or else the plug at the back side of the fuse panel is not making a connection for some reason. Now I must figure how to unfasten the fuse panel to gain access to the back of it. Would you know how this is done? -Richard
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...It looks as though there is a plug at the back of the fuse panel for fuse #5 and the wire runs directly to the C1 plug at the radio. So either the wire is broken ( not likely ) or else the plug at the back side of the fuse panel is not making a connection for some reason...
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I've been incorrect in my assumption that the wire from fuse #5 goes directly to the radio via the orange wire. Fuse #5 is always hot so the radio would always work even if the accessory or ignition were off which is not the case. So, it must involve a circuit that does two things: allows the radio to only operate with the key on accessory or ignition and allows the radio to operate for a designated time after the key is removed. This would almost have to be a relay of some type. Which relay could this be? Richard
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Miami FL
I've been incorrect in my assumption that the wire from fuse #5 goes directly to the radio via the orange wire. Fuse #5 is always hot so the radio would always work even if the accessory or ignition were off which is not the case. So, it must involve a circuit that does two things: allows the radio to only operate with the key on accessory or ignition and allows the radio to operate for a designated time after the key is removed. This would almost have to be a relay of some type. Which relay could this be? Richard
The OEM Bose headunit does not have an ACC Switched Power Input, just an always hot one, but it is controlled by the Serial Data Bus (Connector C2 - Pin 16). Unless the headunit is enabled via the Serial Data Bus when the key is on accessory or ignition, it won't operate. The Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Feature is also enabled via Serial Data Bus to allow the radio to continue playing for approximately 10 min or until a door is opened, whichever happens first, after the ignition switch is turned off.
NOTE: You had previously mentioned that radio had no power and that there was no voltage in orange wire from connector C1 - Pin 10. I asked you to double-check that and also test for voltage at both testing points on the top edge of Fuse 5, but you never replied.
You also reported what was described as a non-OEM wire with no voltage, going from Fuse 5 to C1 connector in headunit. I requested some pics from both ends of the wire to have a better idea. I don't know if you didn't read that or if you forgot, but it would be helpful.
Last edited by GCG; Jun 7, 2019 at 10:45 AM.
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I put the radio problem on temporary hold wile I replaced the driver's window regulator assembly and an O2 sensor (P0157). Looking at the schematic, I will agree with you that the orange wire at Radio C1, pin #10 should always be hot regardless of the ignition key position. So there has to be a bad connection somewhere between the fuse #5 and Radio C1, pin #10. I pulled out the fuse panel but could not release the 3 main plugs at the back of the panel and did not want to force anything for fear of breaking something and that is where I am at presently stuck. I need the procedure for completely removing the fuse panel to gain access to the end of wire so I can trace it. Also, fuse #5 powers the remote CD changer -a feature not present in my car- however, the wiring for it may be installed. Could there be a problem where they splice together?
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So I take it that the answers to my 2 requests above are that:
- It was confirmed that Radio C1-Pin 10 doesn't have power
- Both testing points on the top edge of Fuse 5 do have power
Anything I suggest from this point, will be based on that.
Again, a couple of pictures would be helpful to assess the situation.
There's no external splice. Although both wires connect to Fuse 5, they leave the fusebox separately: the one going to the radio does so from IP Fusebox Connector C2-Pin E1, while the one going to the remote CD changer does it through IP Fusebox Connector C3-Pin E3.
...I pulled out the fuse panel but could not release the 3 main plugs at the back of the panel and did not want to force anything for fear of breaking something and that is where I am at presently stuck. I need the procedure for completely removing the fuse panel to gain access to the end of wire so I can trace it...
You could try to check continuity between Radio C1-Pin 10 and IP Fusebox C2-Pin E1 by using a needle to go through the insulation of the orange wire right before it goes into C2-Pin E1.
If you get continuity, then the open circuit is internal to the IP Fusebox, or a bad contact in C2-Pin E1, otherwise you would need to trace it back moving your testing points closer towards the radio C1 connector as you go.
Last edited by GCG; Jun 12, 2019 at 12:35 AM.
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Radio fixed
I finally got power to the radio. I traced the problem to the female fuse spade connector in the interior fuse panel. To fix, I simply pried the contacts farther together with a jewelers screwdriver. It took all of one minute. Of course, removing the radio and fuse panel, tracing the circuitry, and putting it all back together took hours. The lesson is: always check the most simple things first.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Miami FL
I finally got power to the radio. I traced the problem to the female fuse spade connector in the interior fuse panel. To fix, I simply pried the contacts farther together with a jewelers screwdriver... ...The lesson is: always check the most simple things first.
Circuit 440 is always hot through Fuse 5 and it feeds the radio and the trunk CD player. If you didn't find power at C1-Pin10 and Fuse 5 is not blown, you need to trace back the circuit to find where it is broken. Do you have power at both ends of Fuse 5?
Last edited by GCG; Jul 27, 2019 at 10:12 PM.