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Just thinking your green fluid may be the compressor lube oil !!...YIKES !!..,I probably would have only checked to see if the clutch was working and stopped there but probably was not a good idea to let the compressor run for a long period of time !!
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by 97Chuck69
Well I made the jump wire and plugged it in and turned the key on and the A/C light came on and stayed on. Every thing on the head unit worked just like it is suppose to, but it was NOT blowing cold air. I can not honestly say I heard the clutch engage when I turned the key on, but my hearing is not the best.
I would have tried this with only the key on but not with the car running, at least at first. And it would be nice if you did that yet because we still don't have an answer about this clutch. Turn your key to the on position and then after that, plug that wire into jump across where the relay would be and listen for a pretty loud clack when the magnetic clutch engages. You won't be able to miss it. If you were deaf you could probably have your hand on the car and feel it through the car if nothing else is happening. It's a pretty substantial hit. That's the first part that's important.
C5 Diag, you said the infamous ground wire was on the right side behind the head light. Every one takes this different. Do you mean R as sitting in the car or standing in front. I personally say R is from sitting in the car.
That is correct, left is driver side, right is passenger side.
That being said I took that ground off the stud cleaned it very good and put it back and checked and there is a good ground. I did not and do not know how to check all the wires in that black so called plug, also that being said with the grounds disconnected from the stud and hooked to nothing I turned the key on and the A/C light in the control head came on and stayed on, car running
It's possible that the system also gets ground by feeding back through the other wiring. The fact that you've cleaned up that ground is a good thing regardless.
and so cold air and a short while later I heard a loud pop and steam like coming from under the car and green liquid on the floor. I did find a black plastic plug laying there too. I and thinking now it really needs a charge or do you think I screwed something up.
Well I hope nothing is majorly messed up but blowing out a plastic plug doesn't sound good. At this point there really isn't a whole lot you could do that would be catastrophic. Something in the AC has not been working so there's a fair chance you were going to have to do a recharge anyway after doing some work. I'm not even sure where there's a black plastic plug on the HV AC system. Figure out if that is oil with the UV dye in it from inside the compressor or if it's antifreeze coolant for the engine.
Again on the right hand side of the car in the engine bay there is a aluminum refrigerant line with a aluminum cap over a Schrader valve. It's for filling the system and checking pressure. Remove that tap and with a small screwdriver ever so quickly and I mean really quickly, just push the valve with your screwdriver for a really short burst and listen for an obvious pressure in the system. You should get a pretty substantial blast of pressure from that line. That will tell you if you have a charge or not. It goes without saying don't let all your refrigerant out.
It was a miss print on the cold air. I said it wan NOT blowing cold air. I will take a picture of the plug and try to post it here. I will jack car up and go do some looking. That A/C pressure sensor where is it located. I do not know what the coolant fluid feels like. I will feel the fluid on the floor and if still green I will take a pic of it too. I can not tell all of you how much I appreciate this help. Yes I know I could just take it in and say fix it but that is just not me. I like to do things my self until all else fails. I will say this that if the A/C Compressor needs to be changed that is what I will do take it someplace and say fix it.
Would you please go turn the key on and then jump across that relay so we know if the clutch is engaging or not. It will take all of 15 seconds and we can go from there.
It was a miss print on the cold air. I said it wan NOT blowing cold air. I will take a picture of the plug and try to post it here. I will jack car up and go do some looking. That A/C pressure sensor where is it located. I do not know what the coolant fluid feels like. I will feel the fluid on the floor and if still green I will take a pic of it too. I can not tell all of you how much I appreciate this help. Yes I know I could just take it in and say fix it but that is just not me. I like to do things my self until all else fails. I will say this that if the A/C Compressor needs to be changed that is what I will do take it someplace and say fix it.
...I do not know what the coolant fluid feels like. I will feel the fluid on the floor and if still green I will take a pic of it too...
Unless it's been changed in your car, the coolant/antifreeze should be Dex-Cool and it has an orange color that can be seen through the walls of the pressurized reservoir.
As mentioned above, the green fluid could be refrigerant oil mixed with UV dye.
Well K-Spaz you will happy to hear that I did with the key on I plugged in the jumper wire and when I did I heard the magnets click in I did it twice and they did clunk in. Also I spent over a hour under around and thru the car and could not find where the so called plug came from or where the green fluid came from. The fluid is oily feeling. My radiator fluid is orange. Other that a small amount of green fluid on the exhaust manifold and floor I can not find any anyplace. As far as 12v power from 87 I plugged in the jumper and hooked up my 12v test light to the ground stud I cleaned yesterday and touched the jumper and the test light came on, so I feel there is 12v power there...… Now here is the kicker, I milled it around for quite awhile, should I start the motor and check or not. Thinking about that green fluid. Well I started the motor and it run fine and no obnoxious sounds and motor run smooth. I pushed the A/C button and light came on and when I let go it went out, nothing new. Waited a few seconds and pushed the button again and the A/C light stayed on and ice cubes came out of the vents, I could not believe it. Turned A/C off waited a few seconds [ motor still running ] and turned A/C back on and the same thing light stayed on and very cold air came out. Turned motor off. Waited for 15 or so minutes and started motor back up and A/C still on and cold air still coming out of vents. Turned motor off went and got a beer and waited for a good 30/45 minutes and again light on and cold air. Turned motor off picked up my tools put R wheel back on took car off jacks, had another beer with wife now better than a hour, started motor,,,,,, A/C light on and cold air. DO NOT HAVE A CLUE what happened, maybe something stuck, I do not know but the FU thing is working. Will let it sit till tomorrow and try again and will keep my fingers crossed.
I have to say you guys have been the greatest for all of your help and info. I am trying to post pictures but not having much luck but will keep trying. If the images came thru more than once I am sorry. I hope the pic's are self explanatory.
AGAIN YOU GUYS ARE THE GREATEST AND I can not thank you enough and I know you all are probably happy not hearing from me again on this subject and hopefully I will not have to post any more on it either.. If it works tomorrow hopefully that is it and your job of guiding a not so smart guy to get something fixed right and believe you me I have learned a lot not to jump before I get some expert knowledge from the FORUM.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Ok, well, I"m glad to hear you've at least got it semi-working... I'm not thrilled about it just fixing itself though, that means to me you're gonna be back here again on the hottest day in hell..
Gotta say, that looks like coolant to me, not oil from the Ac compressor. The sheer volume of it, and the color, just doesn't look like UV dye to me, I say antifreeze.
That plug? Man, that doesn't look like anything I've seen. I've take a lot of c5 stuff apart, never remembered anything like that. I know inside the passengers fender there are some really wacky looking vacuum fittings on the canister and brake in there, but even still I don't recall anything shaped quite like that. Not sure what to say.
Your system could be overcharged, undercharged, idk. Either one can cause it to not work at all. Overcharge is obviously easier to fix, just let some out. But without gauges on it, and a chart to tell you ambient temp pressures, I would not mess with it. You need gauges to check it (harbor freight sells a set for about $60) and then you need to know the ambient temp to tell what pressure is proper. It varies a TON. More than 100psi different from chilly outside temps to 90f. So you cannot just guess. Charts on the internet will tell you, if it's let's say 80f outside, you use XXX for the low side pressure and YYY for the high side. A hot engine bay makes it very difficult to get right because of heat soak.
Yes, you're correct, I'm glad to hear you finally did the test. Now you know what to listen for, and you'll hear it happening when you're sitting in traffic now.
I do not have good faith in the shop you took it to. They have no clue about Ac other than add till pressures are around X and call it a day. Do yourself a favor and don't go back there for ac work. Any decent technician would have fixed this on the spot and this thread would have been unnecessary.
It's a UV flashlight that allows you to look at night and see where leaks come from (after putting in the UV dye of course). If you can find a cheaper one, do that. This is some way over built thing for 5 bucks, but there's smaller cheaper ones. You need one in your toolbox. Do NOT store it with the batteries in it, store them in a bag alongside. All batteries nowadays suck and leak and destroy your stuff and then you get to buy new tools. That's not by accident.
I have 4 or 5 of them, one in every tool box, desk at work, library at home, they're great.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
PS. There are 3 different types of dye available at your local auto parts store. One for engine oil, one for engine coolant, and another for Ac referigerant. Do NOT mix them up. They are not the same thing. Use the proper one for whatever you suspect to be leaking. The light will show where the stuff is coming out.
Ok, well, I"m glad to hear you've at least got it semi-working... I'm not thrilled about it just fixing itself though, that means to me you're gonna be back here again on the hottest day in hell..
Gotta say, that looks like coolant to me, not oil from the Ac compressor. The sheer volume of it, and the color, just doesn't look like UV dye to me, I say antifreeze.
That plug? Man, that doesn't look like anything I've seen. I've take a lot of c5 stuff apart, never remembered anything like that. I know inside the passengers fender there are some really wacky looking vacuum fittings on the canister and brake in there, but even still I don't recall anything shaped quite like that. Not sure what to say.
Your system could be overcharged, undercharged, idk. Either one can cause it to not work at all. Overcharge is obviously easier to fix, just let some out. But without gauges on it, and a chart to tell you ambient temp pressures, I would not mess with it. You need gauges to check it (harbor freight sells a set for about $60) and then you need to know the ambient temp to tell what pressure is proper. It varies a TON. More than 100psi different from chilly outside temps to 90f. So you cannot just guess. Charts on the internet will tell you, if it's let's say 80f outside, you use XXX for the low side pressure and YYY for the high side. A hot engine bay makes it very difficult to get right because of heat soak.
Yes, you're correct, I'm glad to hear you finally did the test. Now you know what to listen for, and you'll hear it happening when you're sitting in traffic now.
I do not have good faith in the shop you took it to. They have no clue about Ac other than add till pressures are around X and call it a day. Do yourself a favor and don't go back there for ac work. Any decent technician would have fixed this on the spot and this thread would have been unnecessary.
I agree 1000% !!...this may come back and with that DTC we may have to look deeper... I’m a little rusty on my HVAC but I think the AC pressure sensor, and ambient temp sensor are the only 2 inputs the PCM is looking at...please chime in if there is more !!...if it doesn’t work again Pin 86 on the control side needs to be checked for 12 volts and also seeing if the PCM is grounding the clutch relay control...a test light connected to battery positive and a thin strand of wire wrapped around pin 85 and reinstalling it into the fuse box and when the AC is turned on the light should light...I like using the relay test kit where I can read all 4 pins with the relay working !!...here is my AC relay control grounding my test light at pin 85 !!
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
I agree 1000% !!...this may come back and with that DTC we may have to look deeper... I’m a little rusty on my HVAC but I think the AC pressure sensor, and ambient temp sensor are the only 2 inputs the PCM is looking at...please chime in if there is more !!...if it doesn’t work again Pin 86 on the control side needs to be checked for 12 volts and also seeing if the PCM is grounding the clutch relay control...a test light connected to battery positive and a thin strand of wire wrapped around pin 85 and reinstalling it into the fuse box and when the AC is turned on the light should light...I like using the relay test kit where I can read all 4 pins with the relay working !!...here is my AC relay control grounding my test light at pin 85 !!
Well, there is also the cabin temp sensor by the key, but that's it from what I recall. The temp on the passengers side is set with the drivers control and just gets an offset of "A little warmer or cooler" using the right side control. It doesn't actively monitor that that I know of, just bias'es the doors.
Cool looking socket you've got there. I like that! With any luck, I'll never need one!
...Your system could be overcharged, undercharged, idk. Either one can cause it to not work at all... ...But without gauges on it, and a chart to tell you ambient temp pressures, I would not mess with it...
97Chuck69,
You should check your A/C pressures to have an idea how things are after all this, but as K-Spaz mentioned, you have to be prepared.
You need an A/C Manifold Gauges set. Doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and uber expensive. One from Harbor Freight would be fine, as mentioned above, or get a free loaner from an auto parts store.
Although not essential, a Thermometer will give you a better idea of the A/C system health. You can get
Pressures vary not only with temperature, but with humidity and the RPMs of the engine. Don't add refrigerant blindly.
Check both pressures to have an idea of how things are. Take a look at this Post. It has detailed instructions to check/add refrigerant.
-These are the CliffsNotes:
First you'll need to find the current ambient temperature and humidity. Then, using the chart below, determine your target values for:
High Pressure
Low Pressure and
Center Vent Temp.
Now proceed to take your readings. Make sure you take them with (otherwise readings will be affected):
Engine @ 2000 rpm
A/C in coldest setting
Fan at maximum speed
Both windows down
Thermometer in center air vent
When adding refrigerant, pay attention to both pressures, otherwise you might end up with the high side sky-high trying to get the low side to the chart's value.
Let us know how it goes
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
...I’m a little rusty on my HVAC but I think the AC pressure sensor, and ambient temp sensor are the only 2 inputs the PCM is looking at...please chime in if there is more !!...
Let me just add that in addition to the High Pressure sensor, there is also a Low Pressure one to avoid damaging the compressor as a result of oil starvation if the low side drops too low
Originally Posted by 97Chuck69
...Also I spent over a hour under around and thru the car and could not find where the so called plug came from or where the green fluid came from. The fluid is oily feeling. My radiator fluid is orange...
Although you mentioned your car has Dex-Cool, which is orange, a way to determine beyond any doubt if the green fluid is coolant/antifreeze or refrigerant oil is by trying to mix it with a little water (use just a couple of drops). Coolant will dissolve in water, while refrigerant oil won't
I can't figure out the picture below. What's in it?
It’s a Lisle 69300 Master Relay Test Jump set...I got it at AES Wave where I get a lot of my diagnostic equipment...one can never enough diagnostic
equipment...I’m a diagnostic equipment junkie...LOL !!...the relay plugs into the appropriate adapter and the adapter gets plugged into the fuse box...easy to do voltage drop testing on an operating relay and it also does relay testing !!
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
It’s a Lisle 69300 Master Relay Test Jump set...I got it at AES Wave where I get a lot of my diagnostic equipment...one can never enough diagnostic
equipment...I’m a diagnostic equipment junkie...LOL !!...the relay plugs into the appropriate adapter and the adapter gets plugged into the fuse box...easy to do voltage drop testing on an operating relay and it also does relay testing !!
It’s a Lisle 69300 Master Relay Test Jump set...I got it at AES Wave where I get a lot of my diagnostic equipment...one can never enough diagnostic equipment...I’m a diagnostic equipment junkie...LOL !!...
With any luck, I'll never need one! 
, while refrigerant oil won't 
Thanks!
