Balancer Seal Advice

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Jul 4, 2019 | 12:16 AM

Joshboody

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Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2004

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From: Tucson, AZ

Balancer Seal Advice

Suspected front seal leaking so pulled balancer today and seal popped out with it... what would y’all think of that?

Balancer outer dia is smooth... some diff in color but finger nail not catching anything.
I didn’t put any rtv on the outer part of the seal last time... maybe I should this time?

Thanks for any tips!

Jul 4, 2019 | 12:54 AM

Joshboody

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Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 786

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From: Tucson, AZ

I can push the old seal in by hand and seems could prob do same with new although little stiffer. Should prob change cover but thinking to rtv new seal instead. Cover seems well centered.

RTV or maybe something else is better?

Anyone have the spec for the cover ID, or interference fit needed?

Last edited by Joshboody; Jul 4, 2019 at 01:14 AM.

Jul 4, 2019 | 07:47 AM

leadfoot4

Team Owner

Joined: May 2001

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From: Western NY

What does the OD of the original seal look like? If you can push a new one in "by hand", the old seal was most likely spinning in the front cover, therefore it "re-machined" the bore of the cover, and a new seal will probably do the same thing. If you don't want to pull/replace the front cover, even though now would be the ideal time to do it, rather than RTV to hold the seal in place, I'd use the "green" formulation of Loctite.

Jul 4, 2019 | 07:57 AM

Josephu

Pro

Joined: Sep 2017

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From: Green Oak Township, Michigan

Permatex Ultra Grey around the OD and you will be good to go. If you are using a balancer with a keyway, shoot some in the keyway also. Stock bolts have a sealer on the head, but a little extra sealing is always good.Dont need any static leaks.

Jul 4, 2019 | 10:35 AM

Joshboody

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Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2004

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From: Tucson, AZ

Thanks for the advice... I’m going with the ultra grey. Don’t have any ARP lube so will use rtv on the head and washer.

Tough parts going to be lining up my pin which I JB welded to balancer. And it’s tight space so prob have to start it then take pic with phone and adjust from there. Little skeptical about this.

Jul 5, 2019 | 07:47 AM

K-Spaz

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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader

I believe in the Beer Fairy

I never did like the drill and pin idea. Specifically for your concern about reassembly. Getting it lined up would be a real bear. If I ever did one I would make a drill fixture but it went around the crankshaft using something like A2 and heat treated with the quarter inch half hole already in it. Then use that as the drill fixture to drill the crank with either a drill or an End Mill. The hardened material would make the drill only cut the crank. Then I would take a piece of quarter inch key stock and round off two sides with a file so it went in the slot that is broached in the balancer but is already lined up from the time you begin to assemble. In other words 1/2 the key is square and the other half is round. Or if I had the crankshaft out I would machine the keyway slot right in so the entire problem is done away with. Someone at GM ought to have their *** kicked for coming up with this idea to not key the crank.

Jul 7, 2019 | 10:34 PM

Joshboody

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Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 786

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From: Tucson, AZ

Actually the pin reassembly went surprisingly smooth... my pin has chamfered end which likely helped.

Tough part, as always, was the rack... took 10min to move it out of the way, but 2hrs putting it back!!! Couldn’t remember which way I turned it making the puzzle such a struggle.