Ball Joint replacement
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 69
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Ball Joint replacement
I am going to replace my hub bearings (SKF) due to what I assume is a failing bearing causing a whining noise above 60mph. The car has 115k miles so I decided that I am going to replace all the bushings (energy suspension red), ball joints (moog), tie rod ends (ac/delco), sway bar links (moog), and will swap brake pads. I have a few questions before ordering parts. The car is a daily driver and will never see a track. (I have a dedicated race car)
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 302
Likes: 51
From: Northern NV
I am going to replace my hub bearings (SKF) due to what I assume is a failing bearing causing a whining noise above 60mph. The car has 115k miles so I decided that I am going to replace all the bushings (energy suspension red), ball joints (moog), tie rod ends (ac/delco), sway bar links (moog), and will swap brake pads. I have a few questions before ordering parts. The car is a daily driver and will never see a track. (I have a dedicated race car)
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
Might want to flush out your break fluid while you are at it...
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I know for sure all the uppers are the same, there are 2 different spindles... one is used for the left front and right rear and the other for the right front and left rear, basically the spindle is just flipped around and used on the opposite side... I'm pretty certain that the lower ball joints are all the same as well
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I would not do the bushings. I've done them before, was not happy. Just so you know, there is no going back either. Once you destroy your stock ones to steal the steel Center portion, you're not buying them again. You better like the poly.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 10
Why were you unhappy with the poly bushings?
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Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
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From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Noise
Harshness of ride
Vibration in the car
No noticeable improvement in handling. (Highly doubt it would be noticed on a track).
More work than you can imagine to install. (I own a machine shop, so no shortage of tools handy either).
Destroys the original bushings, unless by chance you have a machine shop and think ahead and make new tubes for inside the polys. The rubber is molded onto the steel tubing which is the mount point for all parts. To save that for the polys, it needs the rubber removed at which point it's destroyed.
Truly, this simply isn't worth it...
Harshness of ride
Vibration in the car
No noticeable improvement in handling. (Highly doubt it would be noticed on a track).
More work than you can imagine to install. (I own a machine shop, so no shortage of tools handy either).
Destroys the original bushings, unless by chance you have a machine shop and think ahead and make new tubes for inside the polys. The rubber is molded onto the steel tubing which is the mount point for all parts. To save that for the polys, it needs the rubber removed at which point it's destroyed.
Truly, this simply isn't worth it...
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 69
Likes: 10
Noise
Harshness of ride
Vibration in the car
No noticeable improvement in handling. (Highly doubt it would be noticed on a track).
More work than you can imagine to install. (I own a machine shop, so no shortage of tools handy either).
Destroys the original bushings, unless by chance you have a machine shop and think ahead and make new tubes for inside the polys. The rubber is molded onto the steel tubing which is the mount point for all parts. To save that for the polys, it needs the rubber removed at which point it's destroyed.
Truly, this simply isn't worth it...
Harshness of ride
Vibration in the car
No noticeable improvement in handling. (Highly doubt it would be noticed on a track).
More work than you can imagine to install. (I own a machine shop, so no shortage of tools handy either).
Destroys the original bushings, unless by chance you have a machine shop and think ahead and make new tubes for inside the polys. The rubber is molded onto the steel tubing which is the mount point for all parts. To save that for the polys, it needs the rubber removed at which point it's destroyed.
Truly, this simply isn't worth it...
What what do you mean by vibrations in the car? Do you just feel the road better or??
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Polyurethane is a LOT denser, harder material than rubber. Therefore, any vibration or roughness encountered on the road, will NOT be absorbed by the polyurethane, as it would be, by the rubber bushings. Yes, the rubber bushings can and will "dry out" over time, and may require replacement, but for street use, polyurethane may be too harsh. FWIW, I've used poly bushings in my street cars, beginning in the late 1970s, when they first became available. However, as time passed, and tires became lower and lower profile, which took a lot of compliance out of the overall suspension system, I backed away from the poly bushings. IF the roads where you live are "glass smooth", and you don't plan on going too far from home, than poly might be OK.....
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
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From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
I don't believe you can buy rubber bushings. So you're options are new control arms or an aftermarket bushing.
I disagree with the level of install and absolutely disagree that you would feel a difference on track, not that it is your goal.
Ride harshness is very much a matter of opinion.
I disagree with the level of install and absolutely disagree that you would feel a difference on track, not that it is your goal.
Ride harshness is very much a matter of opinion.
Last edited by 93Polo; Sep 15, 2019 at 01:00 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 532
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
As to the vibrations, think of it like this. Your car used to be riding on rubber bushings and now it is riding on hard plastic. If you like that ride then by all means go for it. It's not like it's unlivable. But it is pointless and it is a lot of work.
To Solo's comment about feeling a difference on the track, I'm not talking about feeling talkin about feeling a difference so much as seeing a difference. I seriously doubt anyone can say they picked up time in their laps by adding poly bushings. Maybe it's possible with the car on slicks but on street tires or anything close to it, I seriously doubt it.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
From: southern Indiana
I am going to replace my hub bearings (SKF) due to what I assume is a failing bearing causing a whining noise above 60mph. The car has 115k miles so I decided that I am going to replace all the bushings (energy suspension red), ball joints (moog), tie rod ends (ac/delco), sway bar links (moog), and will swap brake pads. I have a few questions before ordering parts. The car is a daily driver and will never see a track. (I have a dedicated race car)
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
1 - Are the lower ball joints the same regardless of front / rear? I have found different part numbers for the uppers (F/R) but only 1 part for the lower. I am looking at the MOOG greasable.
2 - Poly bushings - I am going to upgrade to poly. For a daily driver are the Red or Black a better option? I want firm but don't need track stiffness
3 - anything I am missing while I have everything apart that should be replaced?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 500
From: Hilton NY
I pressed them out at room temperature but used a heat gun to heat the arms some and kept the ball joints in the freezer before pressing them in. A marker was used on the ball joints to show angular mounting direction. Polyurethane bushings are not as soft as the factory bushings but they aren't hard, Delrin or nylon bushings are hard.