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Started having a random no start issue a couple months ago that has gotten more frequent lately. Car is an 01 6 spd coupe. Details are:
1. Car will not crank at all.
2. Battery has been load tested twice at 2 different places and shown good. 18 month old Optima red top.
3. B2265 is the only code presently.
4. It always starts in the morning. But if I go somewhere for an hours or 2, half the time it won't start.
5. If it doesn't start, I can jump the TDR and it starts every time.
6. Security light does not stay on.
I have tried the following:
1. Charged and load tested the battery.
2. Replaced TDR
3. Bought a new key.
Not really sure where to look next other than just bringing a jumper wire with me everywhere I go.
Last edited by dhorner77; Sep 16, 2019 at 12:46 PM.
Possibly the the ignition is not reading the key. Have you tried a second key? Several years ago I had a similiar issue. Cleaned the key AND sprayed electrical cleaner into the key hole. Fixed my problem. Hope you resolve the issue.
From what you have posted, I believe the only thing that it can be is your ignition switch contacts, you can remove the whole ignition switch assembly and detach and clean the contacts inside the contact block or buy a new one and just replace it.
Possibly the the ignition is not reading the key. Have you tried a second key? Several years ago I had a similiar issue. Cleaned the key AND sprayed electrical cleaner into the key hole. Fixed my problem. Hope you resolve the issue.
Ron
Bought and tried a new key to no avail.
When it doesn't start I have tried wiggling the key around while holding it in the start position to see if it was just not catching contact, and tried pumping the clutch several times to see if that was it. I guess I could look up how to test them though and try that.
The electrical contacts inside the contact block become pitted and burnt after so many cycles of starting the car, there is an excellent sticky on this site that explains how to repair the ignition switch contact block.
Follow up on this: pulled the ignition switch and tore it down to find many corroded / burnt contacts. Ordered a new one from Amazon for $60 and no problems since.
Could ignition switch also cause my intermittent elec problems?
Sometimes on startup especially after sitting in sun for couple days (I'm in Hawaii with no carport or garage) the engine will start but some of the dash gauges won't work (oil pressure, fuel level, water temp), along with no elec windows, and no a/c (fan runs but no cooling); in addition many of the dash lights will be on: ABS, traction control, service engine; also getting reduced power warning and shocks inoperative (I have installed aftermarket shocks and shorting plugs).
During this mode, the lights work, as do the windshield wipers, and power door locks.
Car has been at garage for week and none of the techs seem to have a solution.
Any help would be appreciated.
professor jimB
Maybe a bad new switch. Just for the sake of ruling it out, get some CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner and skirt in the ignition slot. Yesterday I was out in my DD (04 Murano) and went to start it and nothing. Starting motor would not engage. Tap the Battery, tightened the connections, still nothing. Had my wife bring my second set of keys and the can of CRC. Tried the second set of keys, nothing. Sprayed the key slot with CRC and woo-la, started right up with both keys. Now I thinking about carrying a can of CRC in all my cars.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Similar thing happened to me with my pickup. Replaced a perfectly good battery trying to resolve it. Turned out to be the battery cable where it attaches to the starter came loose. Nut wasn't tight and it was down there arcing. Had to get under and tighten that and had no issue since. It's something to look for anyway.
PS. Mine arced the hell outa things down there. Not being tight causes quite a bit of lost smoke.
Similar thing happened to me with my pickup. Replaced a perfectly good battery trying to resolve it. Turned out to be the battery cable where it attaches to the starter came loose. Nut wasn't tight and it was down there arcing. Had to get under and tighten that and had no issue since. It's something to look for anyway.
PS. Mine arced the hell outa things down there. Not being tight causes quite a bit of lost smoke.
The first thing to check is the TDR, is it clicking when you try to start it and it doesn't crank, can you still get it to crank over when you jumper at the TDR?
The first thing to check is the TDR, is it clicking when you try to start it and it doesn't crank, can you still get it to crank over when you jumper at the TDR?
I can hear a click from the passenger side when I try to start it, when I jump the TDR it fires immediately.
Because there was nothing left on the electrical schematic to change. I wasted 100's of dollars trouble shooting it. It would start when cold but when heat got high on the sensor no start......it got worse and worse no matter what I changed. It got to the point the engine would just shut off while driving!!!! I mean we changed relays, the entire under hood relay dock, the ignition switch. New keys. Took the PCM Harness apart and cleaned. Checked all grounds. Changed the TDR......It was the hardest sensor to get to. Crankshaft position sensor.Had to remove the starter to get to it. I can see why they fail. It gets hot ...real hot.
Use AC Delco...first generic I used failed after a week. the delco has held strong. No problems for 2 years now .
Last edited by 4horseman; Sep 24, 2019 at 09:34 PM.
Reason: add more info