What all should I do when I get the cam, I plan on getting a Texas speed cam kit with 220R 220/220 .600”/.600” ,112 LSA, TSP .600” dual springs, LS2 timing chain and cam gear, melling high pressure oil pump, cam bolt/gasket kit ARP bolts.
Do I need anything else or should I while I’m in there. Do I need different heads? Maybe an LS7 timing chain? What about the intake? Fuel pump? Please let me know!

 

I recently did a TSP 228R kit. I also did LS7 lifters with new lifter trays. You definitely dont’t NEED different heads but you can get quiet a bit more power with a better set of heads (not cheap tho) same goes for the intake... I wouldn’t worry about the fuel pump unless yours is failing. Def get a good tune afterwards

 

oh also swap your harmonic balancer too, don’t get another stock GM one get something better like the ATI or Powerbond

 

oem or a more performance style one from powerbond
also if I do get heads which heads would do fine for my ls1?

 

220/220 is just barely more than the stock z06 cam. Consider going a bit bigger, so you get some more reward from the effort you're about to put in.

 

Here is a link to a build thread I just started for my heads/cam/intake Winter build. I cover all the parts I am installing with a goal of 460-490rwhp and 410-430rwtq. My suggestion to you is what a I am doing

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ast-build.html

 

You didn't mention if your car is an Auto or M6. Big difference when you're doing a cam.

 

I got the cheaper Powerbond which is better than oem but a lot of people get a better one like the ATI

 

I just upgraded to the 228r which after tuning drives like a stock car. Find a set of 799 or 243 heads (20-25rwph), and I would also add LS7 lifters, oil pump, water pump to the list. you are in there so might as well start fresh. I would also consider longtube. Made 40rwhp difference on my car. My cats were a huge restriction and it sounds soooooo much better with long tubes.

 

I have the M6.

 

My 228R drives well also but makes a ton of valvetrain noise, how about yours? Also what did yours make on the dyno?

 

BTR Stage 2

 

So many good cams out there. The research part is definitely a very fun part of the process. Knowing what I know today, I'd probably stick to 228R, Torquer V2, Sloppy Stage II Cam (what I have), or a BTR Stage II or III. Depends on where in the mild-wild area of the slider you are at. Only thing I don't like about the BTR's is the uneven max lift between intake and exhaust lobes. I just wish they were even so springs see more of an even compression cycling during their lifetime.

My JEGS/Sloppy/Elgin Stage II doesn't buck at all if it's well tuned (maybe only if you're like going 5mph in 2nd gear, something ridiculous like that yea it will buck a bit). I retuned my spark timing with a lot of patience and got my fuel dialed in everywhere and it's buttery smooth even in stop and go traffic. Downside of the JEGS Stage II is it leave a little bit on the table as far as top end power compared to the TSPs or BTRs since it's slightly lower lift (.585/.585 instead of the more common .600/.600), but makes great linear torque all the way up the powerband. which stops making power at about 6500-6600.

EDIT: Forgot to mention my full cam specs for the JEGS Stage II: .585/.585/228/230 112LSA

 

I'm really happy with my Torquer v2 clone, but it does surge under 1500 RPM in first gear and occasionally 2nd, so it's not without compromises.

It's exactly the compromise I had in mind though, so I'd recommend it to anyone who is willing to trade some low-speed driveability for a little more top end, with a wide powerband. Which is basically how I approached my cam choice. In my opinion, it's all about how much low-RPM surge you're willing to put up with, and how much mid-range power you're willing to trade off. Then just go for the most power you can get within those constraints.

 

What is a Torquer V2 clone?? I liked the way you worded your response to the logic of cam selection, completely agree.

 

I was on the verge of ordering a Torquer V2, but the shop that I took my car to has a relationship with LJMS and told me they could get one made to the same duration/LSA/lift specs for the same price, and I was fine with that. (Lots of parts started flying after they found abnormal wear on my old cam...) I'm sure the lobe shapes aren't identical, since different people designed them, but the basic specs are the same: 232/234, 112 LSA, .600 lift.

I told the shop that the whole point of this car was to have something reliable for track days, and it was going to spend a lot of time close to the rev limit, so presumably LJMS used a high-RPM-friendly shape. Maybe TSP's TV2 lobes are similar, maybe they're not. Detailed specs aren't widely available, and every cam vendor claims to have the best lobe shapes, so one can only wonder.

I kinda roll my eyes when car parts discussions kick off with "what's your power goal?" Everybody's goal is "as much as possible, within my constraints."

The interesting question is "what are your constraints?" How much surge can you tolerate? How much exhaust noise? How narrow of a powerband can you tolerate? What's your budget? What parts are you not willing to change this time? What kinds of changes do you have in mind for the next few years, and what parts do you want to continue using after those changes? Questions like those are how you find the right mods, and the power just is what it is when it's all done.

 

I would throw on new seals. A nice balanced pinned crank pulley replace a idler and throw a on new belt tune it call it done. There’s a cam tool available so you don’t need to remove the heads. I plan on doing my ls9 cam swap / timing conversion over the winter along and hooking up a stealth tank and pump system.