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I could use some advice on my 03 C5 base hatchback. Car has 88,000 miles and the last 16,000 are mine. I noticed the HB has a slight wobble and the idler pulley is starting to make noise. I’m not a racer, I tend to be more moderate in my driving. Should I replace these parts with “factory” parts or should I go aftermarket? If aftermarket what brand HB should I buy ? As well as what brand of pulley ? It’s my daily driver not a race car, money is not a problem but I don’t want to pay for overkill. Would appreciate some feedback on this. Thanks in advance for your advice.
I would not use the factory balancer for a replacement.(do not ask why I say this) I went with the Power Bond Oem repalcement unit. Well made and no problems with it at all. It is now marketed under the Dayco Brand now. I also went with the ARP reuseable bolt as well.
Why? Is the ARP bolt 'torque to yield also, or is it a solid steel bolt? Do you have any experience with the factory bolt failing? Not trying to be argumentative!! I am planning on replacing my HB also and your bolt comment intrigued me. Thanks!!
I recommend the ARP bolt and a Powerbond unit. If you want to get the best of the best, ATI is the way to go. The OEM balancer has a proven flawed design with the rubber isolating ring and will have a much shorter lifespan then an aftermarket balancer, but if you don't drive much, the OEM would suffice probably. It'll boil down to how much money you want to spend. An OEM idler pulley will be fine as well.
Just had mine changed out on my '03 Coupe a few weeks ago. Was in the shop to change all the leaking gaskets , front and real seals. I question the shop owner about the pulley upgrade. Only if you're hard on the engine or modifying it. He's been doing race engines for 20 years . Hence the name of his place > Ragin Racin. I had to grin when he said, " Since the original pulley lasted 144,000 miles and was still in good shape, I'm pretty sure due to your use of the car, the new stock pulley will last you another 100K plus miles. LOL!
Has anybody used a Fluidampr HB on their C5? I've used Fluidampr HB's on gen 1&2 SBC with good results since they dampen vibrations at all rpms, not just high rpm like ATI. 740121 is the part number for a C5.
Steve
Last edited by killian96ss; Dec 12, 2019 at 09:56 AM.
Why? Is the ARP bolt 'torque to yield also, or is it a solid steel bolt? Do you have any experience with the factory bolt failing? Not trying to be argumentative!! I am planning on replacing my HB also and your bolt comment intrigued me. Thanks!!
The OE bolt is a "torque to yield" bolt, that requires you to tighten it to a certain, relatively low amount of torque, then a specific amount of rotation, measured in degrees. Could be a little tricky getting the amount of rotation to the proper point. The ARP bolt, on the other had, is a "straight to torque value" installation, albeit a significant amount of force. IIRC, it's 237 ft/lbs of torque. I had to buy another torque wrench, when I replaced my balancer.
Anyone in their right mind, with the hundreds of posts on this forum and thousands on the net about the failure of the GM balancers, that would use another GM balancer is beyond me. I'm glad some have gotten 100K out of their factory balancer. Many people (not racing) have gotten a fraction of that. But as they say, your car, your money.
I have 70k in the oem. No wobble and no movement in the mark. Maybe I’m one of the lucky ones. But I do have an ati I’m waiting to install. Curious, is there any down side of what appears be a very heavy ati dampner? The middle hub and serpentine pulley is pretty darn heavy.
Anyone in their right mind, with the hundreds of posts on this forum and thousands on the net about the failure of the GM balancers, that would use another GM balancer is beyond me. I'm glad some have gotten 100K out of their factory balancer. Many people (not racing) have gotten a fraction of that. But as they say, your car, your money.
Does anyone know of any threads with a stock car (no supercharger, no nitrous, no modified) oem balancer, that failed and caused major motor damage ie more than just a broken belt? If so, please post the link. Would want to look at the damage and circumstances. Thanks!
Does anyone know of any threads with a stock car (no supercharger, no nitrous, no modified) oem balancer, that failed and caused major motor damage ie more than just a broken belt? If so, please post the link. Would want to look at the damage and circumstances. Thanks!
the only "major damage" I have read about over the years is the balancer bolt backing out and striking the rack. But that was always after someone didn't torque the bolt properly after a replacement. I would think the belt in of itself would keep a loose outer hub somewhat in place, unless there is some insane complete disintegration.