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Move Over Ranger Method! DIY Clutch Fluid Flush Tool
As most manual trans Corvette owners know, these cars love to turn clutch fluid black in a short amount of time. As the fluid gets dirty and absorbs moisture and air, you start to experience clutch pedal issues. It can be from a soft clutch pedal to losing some or all of the pedal travel. Not fun when your pedal sticks to the floor. Unfortunately the only way to truly bleed the clutch line is by getting under the car, removing the exhaust and trans tunnel cover to access the bleeder valve. This can be a pain for most owners. So, as a partial solution, most people here in the forum have become familiar with the "ranger method" of "cycling" out the dirty clutch fluid. This method consists of sucking out the dirty fluid from the reservoir, pouring in fresh fluid and pumping the clutch multiple times to cycle the fluid. Although this method slightly helps to remove some dirty fluid, mostly from the reservoir, it does very little to cycle out the dirty fluid that is within the actual line between the reservoir and the master cylinder. A few years ago, a forum member thought of a better way to remove old fluid from the clutch system and inserting fresh fluid. He came up with the idea of inserting tubing into the line (via the hole at the bottom of the reservoir) and injecting fresh fluid via the use of a syringe. Then, just like with the ranger method, you suck the old dirty fluid out of the reservoir with the use of a turkey baster or another syringe. This method not only injects fresh fluid into the line but it also flushes out the old nasty fluid that is in the line. All I have done is make a video explaining how one can make and use this tool (syringe with nylon tubing). This tool costs about $6.00 to make and 15 minutes to use. Its the most effective way of removing old fluid and inserting fresh fluid into the system short of actually bleeding it. Below I will leave a link to the original post, a link to my video and a list of materials needed to make the tool.
Parts needed to make clutch fluid flush tool:
(1) MedLine Sterile Piston Irrigation Syringe- 60mL Sterile, part number #DYND20325 (I found these for $0.66ea online)
(1) 1/8" OD nylon tubing, at least 20-24" in length (can be found at any hardware or auto parts store)
Direction: 1) suck old fluid out of reservoir, 2) assemble tool, filling it with fresh fluid and removing all air from it, 3) insert tubing into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir until it stops. I'll be about 16-20", 4) push syringe piston to insert fresh fluid and flush out old fluid and watch all the nastiness come out of the line, 5) suck old dirty fluid out of the reservoir, 6) remove tubing and repeat process until only clean fluid starts to fill the reservoir, 6) after final fluid insertion (no more dirty fluid coming up into reservoir), suck fluid out from reservoir one last time and fill it to just below the MAX line, 7) put cap back onto reservoir and pump the clutch pedal 20 times ensuring that you have good pedal feel, 8) go drive and enjoy those ponies.
That is a pretty cool way to flush the fluid. Unfortunately for me I think I'm too far past just a flush and fill for mine and need to actually pull her apart and do a full clutch job.
Love the idea! If the tube extends into the slave cylinder, that would also act as a reverse pressure bleed -- to my knowledge the most effective bleed possible. I'm going to have my clutch, master, and slave changed quite soon, and was already planning to take a good look at the parts (mostly I worry how badly burned my flywheel may be). Will see if a tube can be worked through the fittings and bends and how far that would be.
Love the idea! If the tube extends into the slave cylinder, that would also act as a reverse pressure bleed -- to my knowledge the most effective bleed possible. I'm going to have my clutch, master, and slave changed quite soon, and was already planning to take a good look at the parts (mostly I worry how badly burned my flywheel may be). Will see if a tube can be worked through the fittings and bends and how far that would be.
There is a check ball in the quick connect. That is as far as you'll get.
I ordered the MedLine #DYND20325 on eBay and found the 1/8" OD nylon tubing at O'Reilly's, however, the 1/8" OD nylon tubing does not fit in the hole at the bottom of my reservoir, so I found a .080" diameter at Autozone ($4) that does. Only problem is that it is a very flexible fuel line (not very stiff) that is a little bit of a challenge to snake down into the bottom. Moreover, once I start to push fluid down through it, the fuel line wants to squirt back out of the reservoir. However, I was able to hold it down with one hand while plunging with the other. I was able to inject about 120mL of fresh clutch fluid into the reservoir but the old fluid that rose to the top was barely dirty at all. I have been using the Ranger method to clean my fluid a few times per year so either that kept the fluid clean or I did something wrong with Natie's method. Or, maybe I just don't crank very hard on the tranny.
Anyway, I'm going to try to search for a stiffer .080" diameter line and then try again to see if that makes any difference. Images below.
Medline syringe with 0.080" diameter fuel line .080" fuel line (empty package) from Autozone
At best this is getting fluid from out of the MC and up to the reservoir. This would work quicker than the Ranger method since that only takes fluid out of reservoir each time.
You still have dirty fluid from the MC down to the slave.
If you keep your car for a long time it's worth the money to have a remote bleeder installed to get ALL the fluid out each time.
End all be all will be a remote bleeder and using a Power Bleeder hooked up to OEM reservoir cap.
Last edited by smitty2919; Feb 9, 2020 at 02:45 PM.
and how do you get all the crap out of the slave?... it looks like it will do a better job than just cleaning the reservoir but still can't accomplish what a remote bleeder can
You don't. That's why a proper remote bleeder is the ONLY option at properly flushing the system.
Love the idea! If the tube extends into the slave cylinder, that would also act as a reverse pressure bleed -- to my knowledge the most effective bleed possible. I'm going to have my clutch, master, and slave changed quite soon, and was already planning to take a good look at the parts (mostly I worry how badly burned my flywheel may be). Will see if a tube can be worked through the fittings and bends and how far that would be.
This just changes fluid between the reservoir and the master cylinder. It doesn't go into the line past the master, not even one little bit.
Posting about something like this again lets new owners see it, but it's nothing newr. I first read about doing that many years ago.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Feb 10, 2020 at 12:55 PM.
You can bleed the clutch from the top. Just pop the intake manifold and with an extension and swivel head you can reach the bleeder easily. MUCH faster and easier than going from the bottom.
I'm betting you meant to grab this address, for the C5 version: https://shop.katechengines.com/produ...h-bleeder-kit/
And quite a number have the Katech, with Tick also well represented on the forum. I will note that the Katech is noted for sealing with a flare nut fitting instead of a copper washer, quite similar to how the original bleed screw seals. Good kit from all accounts.
Move Over Ranger Method! DIY Clutch Fluid Flush Tool
... it looks like it will do a better job than just cleaning the reservoir but still can't accomplish what a remote bleeder can
