When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just recently installed new head unit with the Axxess XSVI-2004. For some reason I have no RAP, has anyone seen this? the wiring is pretty straight forward, so pretty hard to get it wrong. But key off.... radio off right away. Any suggestions?
Search the audio forum. There are some detailed threads with pictures on exactly how to wire this unit to a C5. If I remember correctly, there is some confusion between the blue wire and blue/white wire in the manufacturer's instructions. You should not have anything connected to the blue wire or the orange/white wire.
Search the audio forum. There are some detailed threads with pictures on exactly how to wire this unit to a C5. If I remember correctly, there is some confusion between the blue wire and blue/white wire in the manufacturer's instructions. You should not have anything connected to the blue wire or the orange/white wire.
thank you for the reply.... I did extensive searches with all the keywords I could think of prior, with nothing mentioned. Only about the other option. But I will look again. Thank you again
Just recently installed new head unit with the Axxess XSVI-2004. For some reason I have no RAP, has anyone seen this? the wiring is pretty straight forward, so pretty hard to get it wrong. But key off.... radio off right away. Any suggestions?
@HisandHerZ06 : Did you connect the Accessory Switched Power input from the headunit (red wire) to the Accessory Switched Power output from the Axxess (red wire), or did you bring to the headunit a switched power source from somewhere else? If you correctly spliced red wire to red wire, as per above, and RAP is not working, you may have a defective unit.
The Axxess adapter interfaces with the Serial Data Bus, like the OEM Headunit, and no additional Accessory Switched Power connection is required.
The Axxess receives the appropriate command via Serial Data Bus when the ignition switch is moved to Accessory or Run, and provides the aftermarket headunit with the equivalent of an Accessory Switched Power wire through the Red wire.
This ability to interface with the Serial Data Bus is also how it can preserve the RAP feature, by keeping the red wire energized for a certain time after the ignition switch is turned OFF or until a door is opened, whichever happens first.
@HisandHerZ06 : Did you connect the Accessory Switched Power input from the headunit (red wire) to the Accessory Switched Power output from the Axxess (red wire), or did you bring to the headunit a switched power source from somewhere else? If you correctly spliced red wire to red wire, as per above, and RAP is not working, you may have a defective unit.
The Axxess adapter interfaces with the Serial Data Bus, like the OEM Headunit, and no additional Accessory Switched Power connection is required.
The Axxess receives the appropriate command via Serial Data Bus when the ignition switch is moved to Accessory or Run, and provides the aftermarket headunit with the equivalent of an Accessory Switched Power wire through the Red wire.
This ability to interface with the Serial Data Bus is also how it can preserve the RAP feature, by keeping the red wire energized for a certain time after the ignition switch is turned OFF or until a door is opened, whichever happens first.
All 3 red wires were spliced together just like the directions stated. I contacted Axxess for assistance and no luck. I need to reinstall everything and test again. the problem MIGHT be because the door(s) may have always been open when I turned the key off. Since I was just sitting in my car. I don't remember if I had the doors already closed. So, once I connect it all I will try again.
Thanks! hopefully either no issues, or I just accept it. Because Axxess just said it is an issue with our cars and the locks....
UPDATE..... RAP ..... Well, when I turn the key off, it powers off, then reboots.... and stays on.... So, Axxess just blames the car. I saw a fix to this with a capacitor type setup, maybe I will do that.
Last edited by HisandHerZ06; Dec 31, 2019 at 06:27 AM.
...But key off.... radio off right away. Any suggestions?
Originally Posted by HisandHerZ06
...The problem MIGHT be because the door(s) may have always been open when I turned the key off...
UPDATE..... RAP ..... Well, when I turn the key off, it powers off, then reboots.... and stays on.... So, Axxess just blames the car. I saw a fix to this with a capacitor type setup, maybe I will do that.
So, then it was that the open doors were interfering with the RAP process?
Yes, going OFF-Rebooting-RAP is a known issue and the fix with the capacitor was my idea . Click here for more details
So, then it was that the open doors were interfering with the RAP process?
Yes, going OFF-Rebooting-RAP is a known issue and the fix with the capacitor was my idea . Click here for more details
GCG was in fact the creator of the fix but I think he should start linking to the proper thread where the fix was identified and tested to actually work...
GCG was in fact the creator of the fix but I think he should start linking to the proper thread where the fix was identified and tested to actually work...
You are right. It was indeed in your thread from May '19 that I replied to your OP and suggested this solution. And it's true that it was tested, validated and I also fine-tuned it (with a more appropriate capacitor value) in that thread. But I have found that the "instant gratification god" is the "ruler" for too many people... 
Having to click a link to another message is a hurdle, let alone having to read a whole thread to find what they're looking for. That's why in another thread from August '19 I summarized everything in a single post, to which I linked to in this one
You are right. It was indeed in your thread from May '19 that I replied to your OP and suggested this solution. And it's true that it was tested, validated and I also fine-tuned it (with a more appropriate capacitor value) in that thread. But I have found that the "instant gratification god" is the "ruler" for too many people... 
Having to click a link to another message is a hurdle, let alone having to read a whole thread to find what they're looking for. That's why in another thread from August '19 I summarized everything in a single post, to which I linked to in this one
the topic as a whole should be made a sticky since as time goes on more and more people will be converting their ancient stereo’s to something more modern and need this info.
Finally installed the small capacitors.... Connected the + side of the CAPS to the 2 red wires on the XSVI and the - to the ground.
It works.... maybe too good.
Now, when I get in it does NOT shut off when I go from key in to crank.... it also does not shut off when I turn the car off...…
HOWEVER..... after I shut the car off, disconnect the phone, leave the car, set the alarm... the radio never turned off... I waited 30 minutes and just powered it off manually …. I am assuming all that 30+ minutes is just the caps powering the radio... but WOW... LONG TIME. I don't see how anything else could be wrong
Finally installed the small capacitors.... Connected the + side of the CAPS to the 2 red wires on the XSVI and the - to the ground.
It works.... maybe too good.
Now, when I get in it does NOT shut off when I go from key in to crank.... it also does not shut off when I turn the car off...…
HOWEVER..... after I shut the car off, disconnect the phone, leave the car, set the alarm... the radio never turned off... I waited 30 minutes and just powered it off manually …. I am assuming all that 30+ minutes is just the caps powering the radio... but WOW... LONG TIME. I don't see how anything else could be wrong
what radio are you using? My head unit will stay on for about 3-4 minutes powered by the capacitor and I’m using a pioneer 4400nex
4500.... when I say on.... i only mean the display, no connection or sound
on mine I have sound and everything. I imagine you have something wrong. How long do you have sound until it’s display only? I don’t think I hooked up both red wires.
on mine I have sound and everything. I imagine you have something wrong. How long do you have sound until it’s display only? I don’t think I hooked up both red wires.
no no no..
.
I mean that it has no sound by choice..... I if you stay only playing for 4 minutes.... I guess 30 minutes without playing might be correct....
I connect with my phone for music.... so when I unplug my phone.... no music, just display.
...I ordered some [capacitors] on Amazon today!...
Originally Posted by HisandHerZ06
Finally installed the small capacitors...
It works.... maybe too good.
...after I shut the car off, disconnect the phone, leave the car, set the alarm... the radio never turned off... I waited 30 minutes and just powered it off manually …. I am assuming all that 30+ minutes is just the caps powering the radio...
Originally Posted by HisandHerZ06
...I connect with my phone for music... so when I unplug my phone... no music, just display.
Modern headunits and amps are very efficient. They do not consume the same power when they are silent than when they are at normal volume. I wouldn't be surprised if a setup that's netting 3 or 4 minutes at normal level would keep on going for 10 times that when silent... It's basically almost on standby.
You can easily test all this by selecting a radio station and setting a normal volume before shutting the car off. Let us know how it goes.
Just out of curiosity, how many farads is the capacitor bank you bought? An extremely large capacitor coupled with a silent headunit could also be at play here.
Now I have another issue... today I dropped the car off to get washed, when they finished the radio was off and would not come back on...…… now I get to tear everything apart again and see what coincidently failed.... UGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just used the Axxess XSVI-2004 to install an SSL touch screen setup in my 2000 Corvette yesterday.
My being the dummy that I was did not understand that the R.A.P. meant I did not need to connect the accessory wire to the "magic yellow wire", so I had wired to that too. Because of that my car just wouldn't start whenever I tried to start it. Snipped that and it works like a charm. The only weird thing I have is that the radio turns on as soon as I insert the key. Not turn it to ACC or Run, but as soon as the key is inserted into the car. Thought that was kind of weird, but it shuts right off when I open the door... or if the door was already open as soon as I remove the key.
Definitely some weird little electrical gremlins in these cars. I've been doing stere stuff for 23 years now and this was definitely a first for me. Getting the wiring harness all put together. Getting the backup camera wired in and looking for a ground for the sub amp. Backup camera all finished Custom 8" sub box I build to fit right down in the back tub. Will be adding an 8" Kicker Comp-R and a Toro MR3 micro mono block amp. The real nightmare... wires everywhere! Deck in and complete. I switched out the cigarette lights in the console to two USB ports as well for doing CarPlay/Android Auto
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Axxess XSVI-2004 NO RAP
. Click here for more details 
