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Dreaded Codes Surfacing... Why?

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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 12:27 PM
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Default Dreaded Codes Surfacing... Why?

Took my 2000 out yesterday (car has 65k miles) for a nice highway cruise. Accelerating out of a rest stop, the Service Active Handling light came on. This is the third time in a few weeks and first that it didn't fully reset after shutting off and restarting. Car drove as normal even at highway speeds. Excellent acceleration and automatic tranny shifts clean. After getting home, I waited an hour, went back out on local roads and no light came on. Three codes showed up when pulled on DIC:

10-PCM - P0719 H C Brake Switch Circuit Low Input
28-TCS - C1286 H Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction
28-TCS - C1287 H Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction

Very recent events prior to codes:
1. New tires, Michelin Sport A/S 3+
2. Front end alignment: Steering wheel is NOT straight (slightly off to the right, maybe 1/4"), bringing it back tomorrow. Reputable local tire / repair shop.
3. Installed plug-n-play third brake light pulser from WebElectric; seems to work fine
4. Set up up battery tender, disengaged positive connection for a few seconds to see if tender ring would fit post, heard door locks clicking but that was all

Previous to getting the tender, I ran the NAPA battery down and had to jump it after pulling both seats for a deep carpet clean. Battery is 12.2 volts cold start/rest and about 13.7 volts on the open road. It takes overnight for the tender light to go from red to green.

Regrettably the 2000 Steering Sensor and EBCM module are far more expensive than a 2001+ and cannot be rebuilt. So "used" parts at a premium seem to be my only choice. First, I'd like to hear from the experts. I do have a good mechanic who races vettes, but I'm not in a rush to fork over $85 an hour for diagnostics if I can eliminate some causes. Thanks for comments and expertise!
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 12:33 PM
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I would get the steering wheel lined up and remove the 3rd brake light pulser and see if that makes a difference.
Both of those would be free try assuming the shop is not charging to correct the steering wheel issue.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 01:21 PM
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Low voltage can cause a lot of issues. A fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts or more. 12.2 volts is not good.

Last edited by JR-01; Jan 9, 2020 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 03:28 PM
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These C5's are great cars but they are becoming old cars....fast
Your wiring is becoming old. Add a few electical options and, the
system starts to over load. One thing that can help is to increase
the amp in your system. I know..You are saying "What the hell
is he saying". You have a 110 amp sytem ,get a higher amp
altenator and many electrical problems will go away.
But before you start buying a generator make sure All of your
grounds are clean and secure.
Good luck
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by road pilot
These C5's are great cars but they are becoming old cars....fast
Your wiring is becoming old. Add a few electical options and, the
system starts to over load. One thing that can help is to increase
the amp in your system. I know..You are saying "What the hell
is he saying". You have a 110 amp sytem ,get a higher amp
altenator and many electrical problems will go away.
But before you start buying a generator make sure All of your
grounds are clean and secure.
Good luck
Great advice. I'm open to all ideas as I really like my car, but yes, getting up there a bit in years. The little plastic treble **** on the radio just split in half and I'm not even tweaking it.

I've read to also rough up the grounds beneath battery and front driver's side wheel well?
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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The system resets itself after every ignition cycle. Keep that in mind. There is a steering wheel position sensor in there so if the wheel is off center pop go the codes.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 06:53 PM
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Clear all codes and drive. See what comes back.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by STRMLNE
Clear all codes and drive. See what comes back.
I don't even clear the codes I just drive, does it have oil and is the temp correct if so GASSIT....
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Whipitnow
I don't even clear the codes I just drive, does it have oil and is the temp correct if so GASSIT....
I guess that’s one way to go about things. But you may be in the minority. That is, if I’m reading that correctly.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 07:49 PM
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I had the same steering codes. Changed my steering position sensor. Mine is an ‘01 so the sensors are readily available. Being yours is ‘00 it’s only available used and kinda expensive. $425 range.

You have to pull the steering column to change it.



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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ~Josh
I had the same steering codes. Changed my steering position sensor. Mine is an ‘01 so the sensors are readily available. Being yours is ‘00 it’s only available used and kinda expensive. $425 range.

You have to pull the steering column to change it.


Yes, the steering sensor and EBCM are both pricey for my year. I recall you did your steering sensor. Starting looking for one as I concurrently eliminate other possibilities such as the off-center steering wheel. I found a used sensor for the '99-'000 for $475. Ouch. May also get a new battery if volts stay low and make sure grounds are cleaned up.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 10:44 AM
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FYI the codes you listed for steering were the exact codes I had.

Also when changing the sensor, take some sanding paper to the mating surface on the steering column. Where the sensors terminals touch. There were slight burn spots I’m glad I made clean with paper.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 10:54 AM
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A larger alternator won't do anything. An alternator only puts out what the demand is. Not to mention there are many horror stories about issues with wrong alternators causing charge faults with the PCM. The alternator is not your problem here.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by v6turbo87
A larger alternator won't do anything. An alternator only puts out what the demand is. Not to mention there are many horror stories about issues with wrong alternators causing charge faults with the PCM. The alternator is not your problem here.
i absolutely agree.
​​​​​
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by STRMLNE
I guess that’s one way to go about things. But you may be in the minority. That is, if I’m reading that correctly.
I hate all the electronic stuff on these new cars, If it drives with out creating a problem long term I will just drive it. I bought one of these for how it looks.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by v6turbo87
A larger alternator won't do anything. An alternator only puts out what the demand is. Not to mention there are many horror stories about issues with wrong alternators causing charge faults with the PCM. The alternator is not your problem here.


The little plastic treble **** on the radio just split in half and I'm not even tweaking it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/corvette-C5...gAAOSwmfhX7Fis


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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:52 PM
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Before you do anything, make sure you have a good battery at 100% charge or you might end up throwing money away.
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To Dreaded Codes Surfacing... Why?

Old Jan 10, 2020 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JR-01
Before you do anything, make sure you have a good battery at 100% charge or you might end up throwing money away.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ~Josh
I had the same steering codes. Changed my steering position sensor. Mine is an ‘01 so the sensors are readily available. Being yours is ‘00 it’s only available used and kinda expensive. $425 range.

You have to pull the steering column to change it.


Impressive, looks like surgery. I recall you had a major issue with your steering sensor? Did you change it after codes and / or after eliminating other causes? I’m looking for the steering sensor now online.

Update on my alignment, had steering wheel correctly centered today and no code yet. I’m not complacent though. It’s been just local cruising, no highway.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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1287 will click on most likely and you’ll need to change the steering sensor. This is a common problem with these cars. Don’t over complicate it. ~~~josh obviously replaced his himself and he’s showing how complicated it is. Had mine done at the dealer. Cost $650

Last edited by STRMLNE; Jan 10, 2020 at 05:16 PM.
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