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In the middle of a upgrade cam swap, harmonic balancer and the question is should i apply any RTV sealant to any place when getting it back together, also any loctite on cam bolts red is ok ?
Any other advise while i am in there car have 65000 miles in very good condition.
In the middle of a upgrade cam swap, harmonic balancer and the question is should i apply any RTV sealant to any place when getting it back together, also any loctite on cam bolts red is ok ?
Any other advise while i am in there car have 65000 miles in very good condition.
RTV in the corners where the pan, block, and timing cover all meet and red locktite. Fwiw Permatex is making an orange now that has the holding strength of red but doesn't require heat to release like their blue.
As far as "while you're in there" stuff, it can get out of hand quick. The must do's in my mind while the timing cover is off are the timing chain, oil pump, main seal, harmonic balancer of it's never been replaced, ls7 lifters, and a trunnion upgrade kit.
Last edited by CinciZ06; Jan 23, 2020 at 06:57 AM.
RTV in the corners where the pan, block, and timing cover all meet and red locktite. Fwiw Permatex is making an orange now that has the holding strength of red but doesn't require heat to release like their blue.
As far as "while you're in there" stuff, it can get out of hand quick. The must do's in my mind while the timing cover is off are the timing chain, oil pump, main seal, harmonic balancer of it's never been replaced, ls7 lifters, and a trunnion upgrade kit.
Thx confirms what i suspected, pretty much standard upgrade with Texas speed low lift stage 2 cam blue springs Summit balancer that i will pin also nothing extreme, the Permatex orange was new to me so will check it, sounds good that no heat required.
As far as "while you're in there" stuff, it can get out of hand quick. The must do's in my mind while the timing cover is off are the timing chain, oil pump, main seal, harmonic balancer of it's never been replaced, ls7 lifters, and a trunnion upgrade kit.
im getting ready to have an ati installed. Does the book call for the front cover to come off to replace the front seal?
im also debating whether to replace the oil pump and chain too. Do these fail often?
No words on removing. I have a Snap-On pick that is bent at a 45deg angle from the tip and I've pried them out with it. There is a neoprene seal and an integral metal shield (typical seal, basically). You need to pry on the shield and not put a scratch or gouge in the timing chain cover. There is a bit of room with the HB removed, but it still is tight up there to get your hands, head, and tools all there at the same time. The process is like porcupines making love, slow and careful. Exploded view from the FSM attached.
Replacing needs a socket just the right diameter to drive the new one in the cover with the nose of the crank sticking out an inch or so. i think you can buy a new TC with a seal installed, but that is a waste of money.
No words on removing. I have a Snap-On pick that is bent at a 45deg angle from the tip and I've pried them out with it. There is a neoprene seal and an integral metal shield (typical seal, basically). You need to pry on the shield and not put a scratch or gouge in the timing chain cover. There is a bit of room with the HB removed, but it still is tight up there to get your hands, head, and tools all there at the same time. The process is like porcupines making love, slow and careful. Exploded view from the FSM attached.
Replacing needs a socket just the right diameter to drive the new one in the cover with the nose of the crank sticking out an inch or so. i think you can buy a new TC with a seal installed, but that is a waste of money.
thank you very much for the info. Very helpful. Also makes sense now why my mechanic wants to take off the cover to replace the seal.
Well taking it off won't help all that much there is nothing to catch to push it out from behind. All you see looking out is the lip of the rubber seal. It might be easier to dig it out with it on the bench, but he will still be digging from the front. Also, he will probably need to get a SAC City centering tool to make sure the timing cover goes back on so the seal is concentric with the nose of the crank. It is said the TC can be slightly off center (I don't recall alignment pins,but there may some), At any rate go to Sac City's web site look at their tool and decide for yourself. I haven't pulled a TC in 10 years so my memory is dim.
They sell a tool to pick that seal out, It came out for me in a few seconds, very easy and no need to pull the TC cover off. Installation of the seal was very easy.