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New Led all in one conversion lights! Just got in my new lights heading out to install these 6500k cool white low beam and high beams they look Ace for 39 bucks no more dealing with my hid wiring running from one side of the car to the other these are a straight plug and play to the light bulb harness ! Hell ya ! Leaving in my stock yellow halogens though for now until they blown!
Great head lights installed now the little f ers won’t close after I hooked up the passenger side ! Hyper flash fix under the dash ?
It's an easy fix, people go through this all the time. A hyperflash harness will not fix this - that is for turn signals.
I recently provided the solution to SharpLight Innovations / Radioflyer because this happens when people install ballasts wired directly to the relays.
Everyone thinks that it's because the bulb or ballast does not draw enough current. It is actually that the circuit that closes the headlight doors needs to see CONTINUITY not the high resistance of ballasts or LEDs. When it sees the high resistance of a ballast or an LED bulb it, it thinks that the bulbs are burned out and won't close the doors. Resistance and continuity are two very different things.
One solution is to flash the brights, but that's annoying.
People wire power resistors in parallel and that's bad because it draws a LOT of current and makes a LOT of heat. Others wire in anti-pulse capacitors but that's not the proper solution either.
All you need is something wired in parallel that will allow the signal to flow through it when the headlights get turned off. You can do it with a bulb or with pins 85 and 86 of a 5 leg relay. The relay uses a TINY amount of current, makes no heat and is reliable.
You can get the ends to make a plug and play solution, or you can just wire a relay using pins 85 & 86 (or little side marker bulb) in parallel with the positive and negative wires of the low beam headlights. You can wire it in anywhere - even at the flat connector near the fenderwell (just look at what 2 wires run to the low beams).
In the pictures below you see all you have to do is wire pins 85 and 86 in parallel between the power wires for the low beam. You can go online and buy connectors and make a plug and play which is what SharpLight/Radioflyer will be doing, or just tap into the power wires in parallel for the relay. Make sure the relay you use has the schematic I show. Some relays have a diode in them and that is not what you want.
I have a video of my headlight buckets opening and closing with NO headlights installed at all - just the relay to fool the headlight module into thinking the bulbs are good.
In my opinion, light kits should use the car light connector to trigger 85 and 86, then power the ballasts through the relays. That allows normal circuit function of the car and isolates the lighting circuit from ballasts.
After I went through all of reading the schematics and trying this, I came across an old post by TSUMI talking about cutting the wires by the headlight module and putting in a relay. When I came across that, I laughed because he had solved it long ago and I didn't find it before I came to my solution and could have saved some time.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Feb 6, 2020 at 06:45 PM.
Awesome guys here’s what I got the have resistors but I dunno lights aren’t my strong spot lol !
so if buy the error cancel things it will continue the signal ? You can here it drop off ! I figured out for now already turning on the brights then off **** them ! I have both high and low Beams set of these lights plus switch backs !
yup, all will work exactly as designed and you wont even know they are there from a performance perspective. They simply retain enough current long enough for the headlight system to recognize they are on and command the motors to close.
And I bet your lights will kick *** with those bulbs.
Plans change ...decided I am ditching the pop ups as the bored out light sockets on those after market lights are not working. Beam alignment is way out in left field some where ! They would not retain a stock bulb either you had to use their Hid kit style bulbs the tiny ones. That’s the result of a bored out adapter socket ! So I’ve ordered nice high quality set of fixed black smoked out ones ! Ought to help with aerodynamics as well . Not going pay for 500 each for euro spec glass original smoked styles just now now that will be another adventure way later !
Anyone here put on fixed head lights and add in your own halo rings as well? Just going all out at this point I’m sick of not be able to see at night ! I know some may not agree but it is what is ! Trying to save on future issues as well!
Last edited by Speedy007; Feb 7, 2020 at 12:24 AM.
All you need is something wired in parallel that will allow the signal to flow through it when the headlights get turned off. You can do it with a bulb or with pins 85 and 86 of a 5 leg relay. The relay uses a TINY amount of current, makes no heat and is reliable.
Agreed. Talk and use of those high power resistors makes me laugh but the "experts" recommend them so that's what "must" be used.
I re-wired my car to use relays to power the headlights years ago and it's worked fine since. I've never tried it but a 1-watt 100 ohm resistor should do it.
The reason the high beams work is because it connects that little blue high-beam indicator light in the cluster.
Here is what I had and the old lights housing as well. It’s more of this issue I I will picture where the housings on accept a hid slim h4 ! Plus it’s become a hassle to align the beam one headache after the next!
No idea they were on the car when I bought it! They have halo’s built in! They work but they stock adjusting pieces look bent . U should see the light beam lol its beyond re aligning tried for 6 hours yesterday before I said no more that’s it be gone ! My guess is they were some eBay stuff and the previous owner took out the stock lights because I see they worth a pretty penny online! Hell I would have done the same before I sold it !
The previous person had it rigged it on there one day the stock cover broke in half ! That was 600 bucks for a new one painted ! Also I’ve found another top bracket piece was broke in the back as well. It just added up to like wtf! So I’ll most likely soon list up the assembly and get it gone as I will never need it again or face future motor troubles with them!
So the option I’ve chose is a cheaper fix because I really haven’t come to the conclusion yet to put 1200 into euro spec lightly smoked original glass halogen housings ! Plus I need some other things ..like a shroud side cover current driver side is taped up and top bracket is busted in the back 250 later it will be new again. It’s cursed after someone took its stock lights out Lol ! Misc items like the Original cotter pin bolts . And torx screws originals plus one side shroud screw. If I do it then it gets done right factory style with the led bulbs in place ! For now though 350 bucks it will be fixed enough for my liking!
One thing I’ve learned is this corvette is dang picky about what parts it likes and don’t like ! I couldn’t get after market parts store idler on it had to be factory !
Oh and I just broke a marker light socket taking off the halo they had the wires jammed down through the side of the rubber seal in back of the socket! I could be saved and solder the wire back on and re pin it but why risk it a new extension socket is 25-41 bucks locally! Step by step I’m going through this car and tearing whatever was done by the previous person and doing it right ! I also rearranged the 1st to 4th cancellation kit while installing hyper flash! Ordered new radio bezel stock one perfect new old stock Yeah a + finally! Again it need to be worked to fit my AVH 2500 nex ! Another story another day !
These led are super bright though can’t lie about the quality was Ace ! I’ll most likely see if I can order different bracket to swap h7 to 9005/9006
Last edited by Speedy007; Feb 7, 2020 at 03:21 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
in the trans tab under manual cags set disable tps table to 0 and max out the min coolant table... might as well get rid of the code as well but probably not necessary
Led head lights
