So i replaced both the belt tensioner and pulley as wl as idler pulley. Now when reinstalling the belt i am running into an issue. Since the trans lines make it literally impossible to place socket on tensioer pulley to rotate it, i have had to go about it the opposite way. I place bely around.crank.shaft pulley then over tensioner and around ac compressor pulley. Then i rotate the tensioner to relieve some tension and try to pull the belt beneath the idler pulley but this is literally impossible! Even with tensioner fully rotated to give as much room as possible, the belt is still a good half inch from being able to make it below the idler pulley. Everything else is aligned properly as well. What os going on? The belt is for right size as it is same one previously on the car. Is it possible for belt tensioner to on wrong? I dont see how as it shouldnt tifhten down unless it on correctly right? What can be done? Thanks

 

Take pics If you can

 

I had to have the car on jack stands and maneuver the belt from underneath. I seem to recall I had to rotate the tensioner from underneath also.

My new rule is that if I have to change the water pump, I also change the AC belt while the water pump is off, out of the way.

 

Smooth pulley goes on back side of belt. So idler and tensioner is on outside of the belt pushing it together. I am visualizing you trying to put belt on wrong side of idler. Hopefully I am wrong.

 

I know they say to put the belt over the bolt and then attatch the socket behind it then release the tension. Two issues here: one it is not possible to fit a bolt there. And two the belt does not have enough give to get it high enough to go over bolt. I used a long screwdriver as a pry bar to push the tensioner down just a little bit and still BARELY get it on edge of coming up over the bolt but nowhere near enough room to fit any kind of wrench or socket. I tried it in reverse where i already had it above the tensioner and released tension to pull it below idle pulley with everything else correctly in place, and it wasnt even relatively close to going under idler. Im legit perplexed as to what the hell ia going wrong here.

 

You are for sure wrong on that one. Thankfully so. I am extremely aware of HOW the belt goes on as far as "route" and "sides" but for some reason in the equation i am getting. A 2+2 =5 type situation. So i switched it up and did it in reverse and then got q 2 ×2 = 5 type result. Legit doesnt make much sense

 

I had to re-read what you said. Here is a pic of how it goes. I have always used wrenches on that tensioner. I have worked on many C5's in the last 10 years and know that it has to be just right to get it on. You may be able to have idler off and put it on with tensioner at full swing with belt on but you have to be really good to do it. I wish you luck.

 

I removed the idler entirely. I am going to climb beneath the car and make sure it is placed into the groovea correcty around crank shaft. I will then tape it down and move around tensioner and ac compressor pulley. The issue i am seeing ia that it is pulling to the back side of crankshaft well behind the grooves and I basically have to remove it from the pulley entirely and start over. If i can keep it lined up properly it should hopefully fit bette . I will set it up from below but complete it from the top.

 

I remember putting new belts on my 03 vert a couple of years ago. It was tough on the a/c side. Bad words were yelled before I got it done.
I don't remember exactly what I did but I was under and over a lot of times.
Hang in there!

 

thanks man. I am really fed up with this situation honestly. What i assumed would take 1-2 nights after work an hoir two both sessions haa ended up being over a week. I just want to drive my damn vette tbh. Im torn between jacking it up right now and taking another go at it or waiting until tomorrow after work for my mechanic friend to come and assist. Often times he gets to busy to make it and I am tired of waiting!!! I beleive where the trouble is coming in at is it being properly on grooves around crank pulley. Hard to keep it this way. I

 

So i decided to go for it tonight and spare the back of my mind for the next 24 hours. The key was keeping everything lined up and did take a combination of work from the bottom and the top. Taped belt along side top of ac compressor and from under taped it along bottom of crankshaft pulley. I pulled as much slack as i could before hand as well. Then from the top i removed the belt from bottom of ac compressor to allow enough slack to reroute over tensioner and then released tensioner to allow slack to reroute back around bottom side of ac compressor. From here i went back beneath and made sure all was still lined up om crankshaft and ac and it was. I showed my girlfriend how to torque the tensioner from above and got beneath the car to hold the wrench at the bottom so she could pull the belt down below the area where the idler screw attatches and then she finger tightened the idler back on witht the belt beneath it. Her hands were small enough to he able to torque the tensioner which freed my hands. I remained below and guided her movement of the belt to make sure it was aligned on the idler and when it was i had her release the tensioner. Boom! I inspected and all iz still lined up. The ONLY concern i have is that the belt isnt directly center on the idler but it is also not overhanging the eddge at all either. It is even with the other pulleys so i assume it should be perfectly fine. The main key is starting off making sure everytbing is in line esp on crank shaft and continually confirming this during and after every move that is made in the process. Removing idler and adding last is also a must. This was done witb a 5/8 wrench and for anyone with the trans lines in the way which i assume is all automatics trans but for sure all z51s, this is the only way

tools used: 5/8 wrench flex head ratchet. (wrench side on tensioner and flex head bent at right angle makes comfortable and easier way to torque tensioner. Also makes it easier to maneuver in tight space.

Duct tape - for taping belts into place
Floor jack and jack stands - to lift car. Could probably et away with just floor jack to be honest, but safety is always first. Spending an extra few minutes buy and/or use jacks is a small price to pay vs being crushed to death by your car. I jacked up front of car and then used jack stands AND then used floor jack with just enough pressure to be firm and not take weight off of jacks. This is just an extra extra safety net.

This applies only to z51 auto transmissions C5s. Maybe all auto trans ones. where the trans lines are directly next to the idler and tensioner pulleys of the ac belt. In z06 and manual versions, a socket wrench with 15mm sockets would be best tool for the job, but the 5/8 wrench would still do the trick.