hello from a very n00b n00b & sorry for going straight into questions even b4 l've filled out my bio, but WTF will be involved with getting the "service traction control" & "service ABS" lights that come on every time l switch the car on (1999 C5)
I took it to a local Chevy dealer & they want $99.99 (good figure eh?) for just looking at it, then, the guy says "if it's an ABS sensor they are $100 each+fitting+tax"........ l really don't want to spend that much on it at the moment, is it safe & is there any quick fixes that an amateur mechanic like myself could do?

Thanks.

 

Look up how to read the codes via the DIC. Once you have the codes it can be determine what is causing the issue. If it is a problem with the EBCM it can not be fix and the module will need to be replaced. Early EBCMs are not available new any more. Used ones are hard to come by and are very expensive. I may be a wheel speed sensor but there is no way of knowing until you read the codes.

 

Driving without ABS or Traction Control is perfectly safe. We drove for 80+ years with cars that didn't have ABS or Traction Control. Those messages have nothing to do with the base brake system.

Those messages are generated by diagnostic codes that are set in the EBCM. You should run the On Board Diagnostic System (accessible by through the keys on the right side of the Instrument Panel) and see which codes you get.

In 99 GM sold Corvettes with and without the Active Handling Option. If yours has Active Handling it will have a JL4 code on the RPO sticker located in one of the rear cubby's or in the glove box.

There is no way to know what is causing your issue until you have the codes handy. An OBD II reader won't be able to see these codes unless it has ABS capability. Based on the Service Messages the fault is common to both the ABS and Traction Control Systems which means some sort of sensor that both systems use. If you don't have option JL4 on your car then that could be something as simple as a bad wheel hub. The codes will tell us where to start looking.

Bill

 

I can't type or cook but I know how
to drive,,,,,,,I always turn traction control
off (even at the track)

 

Then enjoy the lights and the chimes while you brakes may be applied for no apparent reason.

 

Have you had experience of this happening on a 2000 C5???


PS, thanks to everyone else who gave me some really good advise & help!

 

If the ASB and Traction Control systems are not working no random braking can happen. When there is a faulty input to these systems when they are working is when that can happen.

 

Start by cleaning the grounds...solved my problem...depending on codes...

 

It could be as easy as switching the ABS sensor wires or cleaning their contacts. We won't know until you post the codes.

 

My hot rod is in good working order.

 

The grounds to the EBCM???

 

It seems to be the RF sensor that is creating the problems.
Fault codes shownAll in 28TCS section)
C1222H = RF wheel speed sensor input signal is 0
C1226H = LF excessive wheel speed variation
C1233H + C = RF wheel speed circuit open or shorted
C1291 = Open brake lamp SW contacts during deceleration
C1293 = DTC C1291/92 set current/previous ignition cycle.

So guys, should l just start with finding (no idea WTF it is) the sensor on the RF side & cleaning it then testing with a view to maybe buying that sensor & fitting it???

Here's the whole list of TCS fault codes for anyone who can't find them;
28-TCS - Traction Control System C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open C1217 BPMV Pump Motor Relay Contact CKT Open C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 C1225 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1226 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1234 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1235 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted C1236 Low System Supply Voltage C1237 High System Supply Voltage C1241 Magna Steer Circuit Malfunction C1242 BPMV Pump Motor Ground Circuit Open C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled C1255 EBTCM Internal Malfunction CEBCM Internal Malfunction C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1265 LR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1267 RR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction C1273 RF TCS Master Cyl Isolation Valve Malfunction C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction C1276 Delivered Torque Signal CKT Malfunction C1277 Requested Torque Signal CKT Malfunction C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM C1281 Steering Sensor Uncorrelated Malfunction C1286 Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction C1291 Open Brake Lamp Sw Contacts During Deccel C1293 DTC C1291/C1292 Set Curnt/Prev Ign Cylce C1294 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Always Active C1295 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit Open U1016 Loss of Communications with PCM U1255 Generic Loss Communications U1300 Class 2 Circuit Shorted to Ground

 

Hi again guys, sorry to be such a dunce at this, but what should be my next plan of action to pinpoint the problem that needs fixing???
I did pmanage to pull out the 2 pin plug at the wheel end of the sensor, & it looks OK, but l believe l need to jack up the car next & put the electronic tester probes into the wheel sensor to see if there's a current.........................BUT, l can't find any jacking points & l obviously don't want to damage the underside of the car!!!..........Maybe l need to go to Big O??...(Vette/Chevy dealership are a rip off here!)

 

Looks like LF and RF sensors are problematic. Those sensor plugs are real hard to tell if they are working correctly by just looking at them.
The problem is inside. It's best if you take them apart and bend the contacts to touch more securely. Not really possible to do while they are together. (you pull them the wrong way)
They are easy to remove from the car. The section that goes from the car to the pigtail on the spindle is only about 2 or 3 foot long and unplugs with another connector.

You can even buy new sections if you are feeling wealthy.

But before you pull out your wallet try swapping them from side to side. Put the LF on the RF and the RF on the LF. Go for a drive. This sometimes buys you a year or more.
Swapping them back sometimes buys you another year. Eventually you have to get new sections, connectors or take the connectors apart, clean and bend the contacts and check with continuity with a multi-meter.

There are schematics of the jacking points. Unless you have jacking pucks that mount to the frame you should stick to jacking up by the aluminum sub frames front and rear. Use a piece of plywood to spread the load of the jack over the aluminum or you'll kink it and then you have to buy a new car. The jacking pucks fit into the slots in the frame that show through the rocker panels under the doors. They stop jacks from cracking the plastic rocker panels. You don't want to crack the rocker panels as they are glued to the frame. The underneath of the frame.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

 

Thank you sir for giving me so much useful information, & I will test out your recommendations this coming weekend.

 

After being recommended to try my local Big O tire facility, l had a good chat with the manger & we decided to go for the $30 inspection & diagnosis (including road test) & they brought me the RH sensor cable & showed me there was some chafing on it which had worn through one of the wires!
He said the mechanic could do a *"temporary" repair & make it as good as new for 1/2hrs labor, so for the princely sum of $86.98 including tax l have no more warning lights on & life is good!!
PS, they also warned me my front brake pads are in need of replacement, for which they quoted $136 including skimming the rotors!
PPS, my local Chevy dealer quoted me exactly $100 more for the same job!
* they had to say temporary repair even though he assured me the job his mechanic will do will keep me going with no warning lights from that sensor for a looooong time!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> A big thanks to everyone for their help & patience! !

 

Codes are you’re friends. Bigger question is why was it chaffing?

 

I think one of the spring brackets came loose, but it has been on there for 21yrs, & l will ask the mechanic for his view when l go back next week for him to fit new brake pads!
(I could get to chat with him yesterday because he was on with his next job when l picked the Vette up)

 

The mechanic said it wasn't rubbing on anything attached to the car or hanging loose so it must have been a stick or similar that got caught up underneath & caused the damage to the cable.