Is there an objective test for determining correct window tip-in on the C5 FRC body...other than the Captain Obvious tests that it "doesn't leak" or "doesn't make wind noise? I am trying to determine if there can be too much tip-in.

The signs of too little tip-in are well documented here. I have read a slew of CF threads have complaints about leaky windows (air and water) and responses that provide directions on adjusting tip-in. In addition to these directions, I have the FSM...so how to make the tip-in adjustment is not my issue.

I just replaced the roof gutters on my '02 Z06. Despite my best efforts to reposition everything as removed, I'm sure there are slight tolerance differences now since new parts have been installed, new sealant, new foam, etc. The old installation was beaten up and had been patched up at least once.

The tip-in now seems a wee bit too much (would like to test it, if possible, before making any adjustments), and the window heights could drop about 1 - 2 millimeters

 

I made a mental note of how the door opened and closed. Doesnt require too much force to close the door and the door doesn’t pop and push open to much when the door is opened. Both indicators of too much tip in. But other than that and making sure it doesn’t leak is your best bet.

 

Thanks for the tips!

 

OP, I like your car! I also have an '02 Z in yellow. I only just got mine last summer, but I love it so far. I replaced my window regulator on the driver side and had to set the tip in as part of that job. I read somewhere on this forum about closing the door with a slip of paper (I used a receipt from the store) between the window and the rubber and then pulling it to feel the drag between the seal and the glass. Do that at various spots around the window and see if any areas feel looser or tighter. If the top is loose, you can add some tip-in. Like Hoganryan40 said, the door should shut pretty easy when the tip-in is correct. I actually think my car had too much tip-in when I got it...lots of pressure at the top of the glass making the door harder to close. I have the factory service manuals too, and I don't see a true objective measurement for tip-in. For me, it was just some trial-and-error...feeling the way the door closes & the paper test between the glass & weatherstrip.

 

Thanks. It's my first Corvette! I got it in December ('02 Z06 with 56k miles, 3 prior owner, very solid mechanically, some deferred body maintenance items, clear history and partial records, but overall a very good car). Since then, I have been methodically going through it to sort stuff out including changing the valve seals & springs, all fluids, replaced both belts, changed the fuel filter, added the CAGS bypass, did the Anti-Venom shifter mod, added blue-tooth for hands-free calling on the OEM stereo, replaced the HUD bezel and ignition switch bezel, sorted out dash board fitment issues, replaced the console latch, rebuilt the driver's seat frame (was rocking and sliding), replaced both roof gutters, had the headliner restored, and completed body and interior detailing. I'll replace the radiator hoses with a silicone hose set when I do a coolant flush in a few months, and I still have to touch-up the wheels (prior owner was sloppy at curb parking). My goal is for it to be a very nice driver's quality car. It will get a lot of back road driving and some track days use.

I just completed driver window adjustments this morning. I reduced the closing height by two screw turns (CW, lower the closing height) and adjusted the tip-in by two screw turns (CW, move top of window outward). I did the paper test (used a dollar bill) and had snug and even tension all around. The passenger side window was perfect, so I used it as the benchmark for how I wanted to adjust the driver's door. Both windows are now perfect in terms of alignment and closing height.

 

Haha I guess that makes three of us that got a yellow '02 Z06 last year.

M.Y., do you recall in which section is the window adjustment in the FSM? Or what term should I look up in the index. I think I need to do this. After finishing the molding replacement the door is way too hard to close.

 

ELB, see the FRM Volume 3, section 8-994 for tip-in and 8-995 for height adjustment. You'll need an e6 socket. Pull the two rectangular plugs - front and rear, underside of door - and ignore the round one at front. The adjuster screw for the rear cannot be seen or reached until the window is lowered all of the way.