C5 Shift issues
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 144
Likes: 26
From: NNJ
C5 Shift issues
Hi,
Replaced my B&M? shifter and after a few months with a Hinson and its still a PITA to get into 1-2 and 5-6 and r.
Is this a possible answer?
https://www.facebook.com/tmodcustoms/videos/1043102659163210/
Replaced my B&M? shifter and after a few months with a Hinson and its still a PITA to get into 1-2 and 5-6 and r.
Is this a possible answer?
https://www.facebook.com/tmodcustoms/videos/1043102659163210/
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 1,389
From: Orange County, CA
A worn lower box and improperly adjusted shifter can make 1st + 5/6 & R difficult to access.
Although, I'm with redzg... not to derail, but here's my experience:
Currently I struggle getting into reverse, and 1st can be challenging. More often than I'd like, reverse doesn't fully engage and grinds (despite feeling like the shifter is all the way in), and/or pops out of gear.
My current "attempts" to cure the issue involved the following parts/work:
When I had the clutch inspection cover off (for remote bleeder install) I didn't see anything out of place, but I also didn't watch the clutch actuate.
Long story short, lately I've been contemplating a clutch replacement...
Although, I'm with redzg... not to derail, but here's my experience:
Currently I struggle getting into reverse, and 1st can be challenging. More often than I'd like, reverse doesn't fully engage and grinds (despite feeling like the shifter is all the way in), and/or pops out of gear.
My current "attempts" to cure the issue involved the following parts/work:
- remote clutch bleeder line (Katech), so that I could get out old fluid and any air in the system
- Tick Master Cylinder, since it moves more fluid than stock, so that I could push the pressure plate further open in case that's causing the clutch to not disengage fully
- MGW shifter including their lower box, because why not
- new reverse solenoid with softer spring (softer spring can be used with shorter throw shifters). My thinking was the old solenoid was blocking reverse excessively
- replaced transmission fluid with Amsoil Torque Drive
- previously I was using a C6 upper shifter with TMOD lower box
When I had the clutch inspection cover off (for remote bleeder install) I didn't see anything out of place, but I also didn't watch the clutch actuate.
Long story short, lately I've been contemplating a clutch replacement...
Last edited by MetalMan2; Mar 27, 2020 at 08:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 144
Likes: 26
From: NNJ
Fixed
Hi,
Hinson and TMODCustoms lower box was the answer for me. I'll try the Antivenom to see if I can get anymore ease out of it.
Thx
Hinson and TMODCustoms lower box was the answer for me. I'll try the Antivenom to see if I can get anymore ease out of it.
Last edited by Harleyyac; Apr 12, 2020 at 01:00 AM.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 144
Likes: 26
From: NNJ
Hi,
After a few months and about 1k miles is much better. Still a little bit of an issue with shifting to 6 and reverse. Overall the mods and new shifter is about 85% + better. I'll add a washer soon.
After a few months and about 1k miles is much better. Still a little bit of an issue with shifting to 6 and reverse. Overall the mods and new shifter is about 85% + better. I'll add a washer soon.
Last edited by Harleyyac; May 21, 2020 at 12:32 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 856
From: Walhalla South Carolina
A worn lower box and improperly adjusted shifter can make 1st + 5/6 & R difficult to access.
Although, I'm with redzg... not to derail, but here's my experience:
Currently I struggle getting into reverse, and 1st can be challenging. More often than I'd like, reverse doesn't fully engage and grinds (despite feeling like the shifter is all the way in), and/or pops out of gear.
My current "attempts" to cure the issue involved the following parts/work:
When I had the clutch inspection cover off (for remote bleeder install) I didn't see anything out of place, but I also didn't watch the clutch actuate.
Long story short, lately I've been contemplating a clutch replacement...
Although, I'm with redzg... not to derail, but here's my experience:
Currently I struggle getting into reverse, and 1st can be challenging. More often than I'd like, reverse doesn't fully engage and grinds (despite feeling like the shifter is all the way in), and/or pops out of gear.
My current "attempts" to cure the issue involved the following parts/work:
- remote clutch bleeder line (Katech), so that I could get out old fluid and any air in the system
- Tick Master Cylinder, since it moves more fluid than stock, so that I could push the pressure plate further open in case that's causing the clutch to not disengage fully
- MGW shifter including their lower box, because why not
- new reverse solenoid with softer spring (softer spring can be used with shorter throw shifters). My thinking was the old solenoid was blocking reverse excessively
- replaced transmission fluid with Amsoil Torque Drive
- previously I was using a C6 upper shifter with TMOD lower box
When I had the clutch inspection cover off (for remote bleeder install) I didn't see anything out of place, but I also didn't watch the clutch actuate.
Long story short, lately I've been contemplating a clutch replacement...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,663
Likes: 1,389
From: Orange County, CA
Question on replacing the solenoid, I have a new one to install and have read some guys had to power it up either on the bench with 12 source or plug it up and turn switch on BEFORE installing it into the tranny, Question: is this necessary or does it just slide in without powering it up. They said they powered it up and pushed the plunger in. Clarify if you could. Thanks