I'm looking for replacement suggestions on power window regulators for my 2004 base. Which is better and more reliable, OEM or aftermarket? Average cost of part? Any hints or gotchas prior, during, and after removal of both the regulator and glass? I noticed some YouTube videos never really addressed alignment issues of the glass after installation either. Thanks!

 

Ugh I just did this. I suggest going OEM. I can't remember what I got, but it was pretty cheap off Amazon. It's clearly an inferior part because the window makes a thunk sound every time it reaches the bottom where the original part has some springs that slow the window down and then it stops silently.

The adjustment is not too bad just trial and error of closing the door and opening and adjusting. There's a front adjuster and a rear one some people only talk about the rear one. You have to adjust them together as the rails have to be parallel or the window glass will bind up. I used a slip of paper to gauge the tightness of the window inside the weatherstrip. Close the paper in the window and if you can pull it out easily it's too loose.

Good luck the hardest part of the job is getting the new unit into the door and in the correct position!

 

During research, I've found that Safelite Auto Glass also replaces window regulators. Anyone else have experience with them? This is another option I may look into. It's professionally done and guaranteed. My concern is getting the window glass adjusted correctly afterward. I have tinted windows and don't want the tint film getting scratched up during and after the process.

 

I replaced the passenger window regulator about 6 months ago, at which time I went through the same "from whom should I buy? OEM versus aftermarket?" questions. I ended up purchasing an aftermarket regulator from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I was really suspicious of any parts sourced from eBay or Amazon, so I chose not to shop those sources. YouTube show-n-tells informed me a bit about what I really was looking for.

My local Chevy dealer had the parts, although I determined that they weren't selling true "OEM" but rather a GM-approved replacement. HOWEVER, theyr replacement part was (a) more expensive than the O'Reilly alternative, and (b) required that I also purchase a pigtail (at additional cost) since the GM-approved replacement wasn't fabricated to be a true plug-n-play replacement. The O'Reilly alternative was plug-n-play. (But I caution you, O'Reilly's website showed two different harnesses, one of which DID require the pigtail. So, talk to the O'Reilly people and get them to give you full disclosure before you buy. I'd say this same advice holds true regardless where you buy your replacement regulator.)

My last observation: installing the replacement regulator wasn't difficult, BUT....during reinstallation of the window glass, proper re-alignment of the window glass is really critical, particularly if the window is tinted. And the time to determine the proper alignment of that window is just before you remove it, not when you reinstall it. I didn't pay attention to the alignment of my window when I was removing it. [Key - alignment really means front to back. If the window isn't properly centered - front-to-back - when it is FULLY CLOSED, it will rub against metal edging in the door frame.] The result? A nasty (in my case a 2" long, 1/4 " wide) gash of the window tint, which will likely trigger a trip to the window tint shop to replace the tint.

Other than that, all is good. But I thought you'd be interested in my experience. My wish for you: may your problems be new ones.

The Lizzard

 

I've done it on my 03 vert with an aftermarket one purchased from Amazon. I like Amazon because it's pretty much guaranteed.
It's easy to send stuff back if you have Prime.
Do NOT order one from a place called Corvette Mods. Do a search on them if you wonder why.
It's not a bad job. I had problems adjusting the window after installing it and finally went to Harbor Freight and bought a 4" suction cup. I loosened the 2 nuts holding the glass and closed the door gently. I then stuck the suction cup on the glass and moved the window to where it needed to be. I opened the door and tightened the 2 nuts and put the door panel back on.
Worked great. No wind noise or leaks.
It's really not a bad job to do yourself if you are able. Beware of the plastic pins that are on the door panel because they will break off. I broke a couple and had to order some through Amazon. Now I have a supply.
Good luck!

 

Like other guys have said, it's not too bad of a job. Search the forum for write-ups and pictures. A couple of tips: The part is not Vette specific and is used on several other models. I bought one from Rock Auto and it is fine. Take pictures as you do the disassembly! There are six adjustment directions. Up/Down, Fore/Aft and Tip in/Out. It is a trial end error process. Don't put the door back together until AFTER you have done a drive test for wind noise and a garden hose test for leaks!

 

Thanks for the alignment tips. My passenger window is currently stuck in the raised (closed) position and won't go down. I hear only clicking when I try to lower it using either the master or passenger side window switch. One thing I thought of is to use thin masking tape horizontally across the window's front and rear edges, in its raised position, to mark the window's alignment against the door panel. Adding another strip of tape horizontally, in the middle part of the window, couldn't hurt either. For added measure, I'll use a permanent marker on the window's front and rear edge as well. That may work in helping me to align the glass properly. Using a couple of 4" suction cups to help align the window is a great idea, too.

One thing I forgot to ask is the up/down speed of the aftermarket regulator motors. I've read online that some may be slower as compared to the AC Delco OE part. Could that be true?

 

I went to O'Reilly's website and found 2 window regulators for the right side. The Dorman OE version (Part:748-473 - $269.00) doesn't require an additional part. The other part, AC Delco (Part:15781690 - $250.99), does require an additional part to purchase. Both items are considered special order, not available in store, in my area.

 

one of the you tube videos i used as a guide showed marking the glass position with a marker where it sits in the two clamps before you loosen the clamps and remove the glass. . not one issue on alignment with my install. do the dollar bill slip to double check the seal of the glass at top where it touches the weather strip. like the fella said above do not use corvette mods folks for anything! also buy the door panels pins ahead of your repair,you'll need them!

 

Thanks for tip. I'll also buy additional plastic pins before I remove the door panel.

 

Related: the little plastic receptacles for those plastic pins are seriously clipped into the holes in the door frame. Don't be surprised if when removing the door panel a couple of the receptacles rip the hole open in the door. I've had to glue at least 2 of mine back in. I used marine grade epoxy for fiberglass boats and it worked pretty well.

 

Before you go spending a fortune on OEM check this out on Amazon. I replaced both sides several years ago. They work great! And only $38

 

I used this one from amazon. Power Window Regulator With Motor Assembly Front Left Drivers Side Replacement fit for 1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette 10338548 , replaced it almost a year ago and have had no problems with it. My window did not want to come out of the rubber attachment points at the bottom of the window but with some patients I got it loose. As others have said mark everything and alignment won't be an issue. Good Luck

 

Any further tips on adjustment? My driver side window regulator was replaced at some point before I bought the car. It doesn't leak, but has a high pitched whistle from wind noise. It appears just needs to go up a little more for a good seal. Maybe just 3/16".

 

We're these exact replacements? I've read comments on the Amazon reviews that some modifications needed to made in order to make them fit and work properly. What was your experience during the install process? Also, are the replacement motors slower and smaller compared to the factory installed regulators?

 

I do know that the one I used was an exact replacement. It doesn't seem to be any slower or faster but it does have a slight thud when it gets to the bottom like others have mentioned. I don't remember why I went with the $50 one but I have had no problems with it and will buy the same brand when the passenger side goes. Have you tried smacking it. My passenger side gets stuck every now and then, sometimes I can slam the door while holding the button down or I have a large screwdriver that I put on the bolt under the little cover and smack it with a hammer. After doing this it is usually good for over a year.

 

I just replaced my passenger side regulator setup with a used unit I got on ebay (OEM GM w/ 50k miles or so) for around $50. I was going to buy a cheap new regulator (non-OEM) but decided against it after reading so many polarizing reviews. I did have to wire up a different plug that I bought on rock auto, bringing to the total to around $65 for the repair. Aligning my window was pretty easy (it had some black marks where the previous rubber pieces were) and I did not tighten it fully until I had rolled the window up and down a few times with the door open and closed.

The regulator that was in the car when I got it was an amazon/ebay cheap replacement that I was told by the previous owner did not even last a year or so with minimal use.

 

I finally got around to replacing my window regulator on the passenger side. After researching my replacement options, I decided to go with a highly rated non-OEM part through Amazon. Concerns I had been reading about on replacements were that the motor was slower than GM's OEM version and having to buy an extra pigtail wiring adapter to connect to the motor. The part I bought performed equal to or better than the GM-OEM. It also did not require a wiring adapter. It was plug-n-play, just like what the ad said. I thought I'd also pass some advice I've seen on other YouTube posts on replacing the window regulator. First thing I did was to use masking tape to create a line along the entire width at the base where the window meets the rubber weather channel. I also marked off the forward and rear positions of the window while it was all the way up to make repositioning easier. After the old regulator was removed, I measured the bolt and screw settings so I can match them on the new regulator. The prepping of the new regulator settings and taping of the window made the project less of a hassle. The only problem I ran into was removing the panel without damaging any of the white plastic mounting pins or holes. Everything else was pretty straightforward.

Here's the link to the regulator I purchased and installed:

 

Does replacing the regulator also fix window wobble ? My drivers side window is so loose that you can sway it back and forth really easily and so it wont seal firmly on the window seals as it just bends out of the way. Being over 20 years old I am sure if I put a new regulator in it should tighten everything up but would like a second opinion before buying one