I modified and re-leveled the t's due to some issues i found with my previous design. The threads that i tapped were not dead perpendicular to the face of the t causing leveling issues. By just using a thru hole and nut i was able to properly get the T's leveled. I then spend quite a while working on actually aligning the car this weekend. I don't have a lift or turn tables for the wheel so every time i wanted to make an adjustment i would need to jack the car up and then drive it to re-settle the suspension. As you can imagine it was a very long process to get it right. However, I am trying to get through the break in period on the car and I was really nice out, so ultimately it got done. I ended up Running with -1/16 toe front and read, -0.5 degrees of camber in the rear and -1.05 degrees camber in the front. I know the front will have to be redone from scratch when i get my caster measuring set up build but this got me on the road with a car that at least felt good and stable and didn't dart around when transferring weight. The build of the castor tool is still to come.

 

Unless the wheels have freedom to slide when you lower the car, the tires will grip and give you wrong camber and toe readings. So next time you go to the store, ask for a good sized stack of grocery bags. then, put several flat under each wheel. Also, if you make 4 platforms around 4 inches high, then put the bags on the platforms and place one under each wheel. Then you have enough room to wrench the adjustments.

Most garage floors slope to the door. Good idea to compensate for this, so the tires are level.

A thought about toe settings. At - 1/16 toe (assuming you mean 1/16 toe in), you run a risk of feathering the corners of the tires with street driving, especially highway speeds. C5’s lift a good bit, so when you lift, toe in will increase due to the car lifting and moving the suspension. Since the steering rack is ahead of the suspension, the dimension of the tie rods don’t change, so this constraint adds more toe in. One of the reasons racers add toe out in the front. I like to get as close to zero toe front and rear to compensate for this. There is usually a crown in every road to allow rain runoff, so you are always adding a teeny bit of steering input. So, tires are always scrubbing a teeny bit.

WRT rear toe, the constraint is behind, so aero lift causes toe out in the back at highway speeds