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I wrote in on this a long time back and did not get much help.
Every time I start the car, I get the indication on the DIC that the brake fluid is low. Of course, it's fine. I cleaned out the reservoir and the sensor was replaced by the used car dealer that sold me the car. The indication went away a couple of weeks and came back, so I cleaned the reservoir, fiddled with the floating magnet, which is floating all right, and I still have the indication.
Is the indication just stuck in the car's robotic mind? Do I just need some sort of extra special clearance from somebody with a Tech 2 to ignore it? I even turn it off with a cheapo bluetooth OBD2 reader and it never goes away.
Last edited by FOGeologist; Apr 15, 2020 at 02:10 PM.
How many key cycles have you done? Some faults take 3 key cycles (on start/crank run off) without seeing the issue to stop showing you the issue. If you've done that, then you may have a wiring issue.
How many key cycles have you done? Some faults take 3 key cycles (on start/crank run off) without seeing the issue to stop showing you the issue. If you've done that, then you may have a wiring issue.
It's been messed up for more than two years.
I have disconnected the battery, etc. No dice.
Last edited by FOGeologist; Apr 15, 2020 at 03:10 PM.
I dug out my service manual for ya. Mine is a 2002 so this may vary depending on your year, but I bet it's the same regardless. The brake fluid level switch closes with low fluid. If the switch is working fine because it's new, and the IPC thinks the fluid level switch is closed because it is seeing ground at the connector pin, you must have a short to ground of the purple wire somewhere. With the key off, disconnect the brake level switch and use your multimeter to probe resistance from the pin of the purple wire to the frame, engine block, alternator frame or battery negative terminal. It should say open circuit. If there is some resistance you have a failed wire that is shorted to ground.
Looking at the shop manual diagram, it appears that both the Brake Level Switch and Parking Brake Switch both trigger the same indicator lamp. Are you actually getting a DTC on this, or just going by the indicator lamp? The Parking Brake Switch on my '02 is very sensitive and the slightest touch of the brake lever turns on the lamp.
I dug out my service manual for ya. Mine is a 2002 so this may vary depending on your year, but I bet it's the same regardless. The brake fluid level switch closes with low fluid. If the switch is working fine because it's new, and the IPC thinks the fluid level switch is closed because it is seeing ground at the connector pin, you must have a short to ground of the purple wire somewhere. With the key off, disconnect the brake level switch and use your multimeter to probe resistance from the pin of the purple wire to the frame, engine block, alternator frame or battery negative terminal. It should say open circuit. If there is some resistance you have a failed wire that is shorted to ground.
Brilliant advice, given brilliantly. I am stuck at home today with a foot of snow on the deck. I think I can break out the multimeter on this deal and diagnose what's happening here.
Brilliant advice, given brilliantly. I am stuck at home today with a foot of snow on the deck. I think I can break out the multimeter on this deal and diagnose what's happening here.
Thanks I'm happy to help. I'm an electrical engineer in the off highway equipment industry so I've fixed my share of Gremlins usually on prototype stuff with a lot less documentation than this! Sucks to hear you have snow...let us know what you find
Looking at the shop manual diagram, it appears that both the Brake Level Switch and Parking Brake Switch both trigger the same indicator lamp. Are you actually getting a DTC on this, or just going by the indicator lamp? The Parking Brake Switch on my '02 is very sensitive and the slightest touch of the brake lever turns on the lamp.
I get a code. I don't remember which one it is, but I'll stick the cheapo OBD2 Bluetooth on it and report it here.
I have checked my reservoir, and found the magnet NOT FLOATING. i think this thing is intermittently floating and sinking, closing the connection and lighting up the DIC and the brake light.
I hauled up on the magnet with a bent pick, and it hung up... for a moment. Came back a couple of minutes later and found it on the floor of the reservoir.
Conclusion: I need a new reservoir. Damn thing IS nearly 24 years old. Think a new reservoir isn't too expensive on Rock Auto. Fluid needs changing anyway.
Last edited by FOGeologist; Apr 17, 2020 at 02:46 PM.
I'm glad to hear you don't have to go finding an electric fault somewhere. Might just wanna throw a new master cylinder at it while you're there. The reservoir comes with a master cylinder.
I'm glad to hear you don't have to go finding an electric fault somewhere. Might just wanna throw a new master cylinder at it while you're there. The reservoir comes with a master cylinder.
thinking about that.
A new AC Delco master is about $90. I can't say I'm eager to get inside the hydraulics on an ABS equipped vehicle, as a bleed job might be a pain in the neck. I could job it out to a local garage, but this may get kind of spendy.
A new AC Delco master is about $90. I can't say I'm eager to get inside the hydraulics on an ABS equipped vehicle, as a bleed job might be a pain in the neck. I could job it out to a local garage, but this may get kind of spendy.
I determined that the reservoir I purchased from Rock Auto is really tall... probably too tall for the Vette. It's for a K1500, as the aftermarket and AC Delco reservoirs are no longer made for our C5 cars, I decided to change out the master cylinder.
I found an AC Delco Pro with reservoir for $68 on Amazon. Only drawback? Delivery date a month out
So I ordered it, and determined that I can bleed the brakes without much drama as I have a cooperative wife, great jack stands, and a Mity-Vac.
The posted Tech Guide by 69 was a blessing, too. Thanks!
Last edited by FOGeologist; Apr 18, 2020 at 01:00 PM.
And no change. I don't have any codes showing up on my cheap Bluetooth OBD 2 scanner. "Low Brake Fluid" pops up every key start, come hell or high water. I'm at 5 key cycles after a battery disconnect.
Well, I threw $70 at the problem and failed.
Now I think I'm looking for a closed circuit/broken wire/early ground or whatever.