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I've been planning to get to this sooner or later. The heated back glass lead has no insulation. There is no power to it that I can tell (at least the grid does not appear to carry any current). I know there is supposed to be insulation so I probably need to get some heat shrink tubing and wrap it. Not sure how or why this got stripped. No, I don't drive around with the wire hanging down like in the picture and don't really care whether it works or not but I'm not sure what kind of electrical/fire hazard this might present. I may have to pull the headliner to get this done properly. Has anybody else had this issue?
I just did, yes. I asked the same question when I first joined the forum and didn't get anywhere with it.
Very easy ot replace. Pull the halo trim off and it's one plug and the one you can see. Mine was brittle and cracked just like that, but most of the insulation was intact. Replaced with a new-to-me used cable and all was well.
Thanks Stingaroo. Sounds like a good plan. I worked in a tempered automotive glass facility for over 30 years and painted and soldered thousands of these backlites so at least I'm familiar with how they work.
Yeah my lines were all 100% intact under the tint, so I had a feeling something was awry with the connector. It was cheap enough that I went for it and now it works.
Very useful here in Florida... that 2:30 rain storm every day is real.
You would have to gouge one pretty hard to break a line. The silver ceramic paste is screened on prior to tempering and gets fired into the surface of the glass in the bending process. if you would happen to break a line, you can use heat tape to find the broken or if your brave, run steel wool along the broken line with the current on and the steel wool will spark when it crosses the break. This is how we would find them on the soldering line. Steel wool is highly flammable.
Rear Defroster
