Hey All,

Hope everyone is doing well! I cleaned my garage this weekend and got excited about starting a new project. I have a set of 243 heads sitting here that I'd like to upgrade. They only have the valves and springs on them and I'd like to replace those.

I have a base ls1. I'm not changing the cam, just the heads. I've heard that stock springs start to float a little around 6k rpm. Also, I've heard titanium valves are a good way to go and to switch to Ls7 lifters.

Can someone throw in their two cents on this? I would really appreciate the advice! Also any suggestions for anything that should be done before I tear into the heads would be appreciated.

Thanks guys!

 

I would recommend a dual valve spring and upgraded rocker trunnions while you are in there. Changing out the lifters is probably a smart idea too while you have it all opened up.

 

Hey Chris! Thanks for chiming in. I watched your video on the head swap you did at your buds shop a day or so ago and it was very helpful. So, those are the springs you recommend, cool. So now for the trunions and valves. I've also heard that ls2 lifter trays are a good swap. Not sure of the reason.

I'll check into those valve springs.

 

The stock valves are fine for your application. Just make sure you get a valve job before install.

Here are the trunnions I used.
https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-v2...002-tk002.html

I don’t really have an opinion on the lifter trays.

 

Gotcha brother, thanks again!

Putting a parts list together.

 

OP, I think you meant titanium RETAINERS, not valves. The titanium retainers are very light and help the engine rev higher before the valves float - due to lighter valve train.
You'll probably never rev high enough for it to matter, but if you think you'll do a cam later down the road, you might as well put the good parts on the heads now and not have to do the work a second time later down the road.

 

I would not recommend dual springs for a stock cam, the factory blue replacements will be just fine and easier on your valvetrain... the stock retainers are fine as well, titanium is lighter but it's a softer metal and will wear over time and totally unnecessary for your application

 

Taking all this in guys. Thanks.

Ah, I thought it was the valves that were titanium!

The car is boosted, but I'm not sure that that affects your guy's outlook. It's otherwise stock. It's an 01 so it has the ls6 intake.
​​
I may upgrade to a slightly bigger cam at some point. I mean, will it HURT my valve train to put double springs on it?

 

The stock ls6 valves were lighter than avg, not sure if you have those, but you def don't need dual springs on the stock cam, some nice single beehive set will run nice and last a while

 

you can do titanium intake valves but they aren't really necessary, the ls7 and ls9 heads come with titanium intake valves from the factory but they are larger and won't work on your heads.. are your 243s from a z06?... if so they should have hollow intake and sodium filled exhaust valves which are both lighter than standard valves so that's a plus... being boosted does make a difference on valve springs in my opinion... I still wouldn't recommend a dual but a good beehive would do the trick, pac and psi both have some good options... how much boost are you seeing on your engine?... the reason you need a stronger spring with boost is because the higher that boost number goes up the more chance you have of getting valve float if your springs don't have enough seat pressure.. think of 20psi on the back side of the intake valve essentially trying to force it open when it should actually be closed... you might consider a better pushrod as well for more stability, the stock ones are pretty weak... I am only recommending that stuff because you are boosted, if it was a stock cam n/a setup I would say to leave the springs and pushrods alone... on the lifters I have seen too many people having issues with ls7 lifters, enough that I will personally stay away from them... I would rather spend a little more on something nicer and not have to go back and do the work all over again because of a failed lifter but that's just me

 

Thanks for the info. The casting is 243, but it was never specified where they came from when I bought them. The springs look pretty standard, not colored or anything. The valves honestly look like crap. The exhaust valves have a bunch of build up on them. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow.

I'm not too sure about my boost. I still need to get a gauge. It's an A&A kit and I'm making roughly 495whp. I should ask them tomorrow.
​​​​

 

if you have a scale you can weigh the valves and search around online for the weights, the z06 valves will be a tad lighter... I believe they are also slightly longer because the z06 cam has a smaller base circle and they use a longer valve to make up that difference and still use a 7.4 pushrod like the base ls1... now that I think of it you should find out and also measure the pushrod length when you get the heads installed just to be sure

 

That's a lot of work not to change the cam at the same time.

 

Call Brian Tooley Racing. It's their job to know answers to your questions.

 

Ok lots of different things said in here that is not quite the right suggestions ......Several questions need to be answerd first...... 1. how many miles are on the car? 2. you said the car is boosted.... turbo or supercharger? how much boost is it making? and last... what cam do you think you want to go with in the future? you want as much spring as needed but no more... there are somethings that should be done while the car is apart... charging the rocker needle bearings out for bushings is one (trunnion kit) I'll make more suggestions once you can chime back in.

 

Hey everyone, thanks again for the replies. I've been installing cabinets with a buddy and have been away a couple days.

Anywho, back to it.
Hey ASRhoff, here are the answers to your questions:
1: 79k
2: Vortec S/C
3: I still have to check with A&A about how much boost. I desperately need a boost gauge, haha.
4: I'm not entirely sure about the cam. I definitely want it to be mild and cut for a boosted engine.

Watching some videos and talking with you guys really has made me reconsider going through the process without changing out the cam.

It does make more sense to do everything at once, especially considering there are so many other peripheral things to do. I would like to have a to do list put together for myself so I can tackle this in the future. All your info is greatly appreciated!

 

I'm all for doing a cam but keep in mind the power could easily jump past 700 to the wheels and to some that is too much and you will need to address the fuel system as well... at bare minimum you will need a meth kit if you don't already have it, e85 is even better

 

you dont need titanium parts on your engine...you can but you wont see any benefit

 

Right, good point. Even with my current setup, I don't hook up that well. It's not bad after the nitto 305's NT05r's, but I still break loose at launch, which is really annoying.

It may make more sense to address the traction problem before adding power.

I was thinking of doing what Chris Draper did to his vette, that is adding a wide body kit in the back and throwing on some thicker and if possible, taller tires.

As of now, I'm making about 500whp. You think a mild cam and head swap would push it into the 700's? I was expecting more along the lines of 50-70 hp gains, but doing this to an LS is new to me.

 

my 02z made about 420rwhp with headers, vararam, and a blower cam and I added a blower and it went to roughly 720rwhp so yeah it can be a big jump if you want it... if you don't want that much you can run a larger blower pulley to limit peak power but the low/midrange might feel softer since it won't be building as much boost down low