2002 C5Z AC Hose mod - Headers too big
Wanted to put this out there for anyone having this problem. I inherited some huge XS power headers that burned through my old AC line in a heartbeat. It also burned through the replacement.
I used some metal wire to estimate how long of a custom flex line I would need cut into my new (but burned through) line and took it to a local shop that made it for 40 bucks. It now fits great and works.
This picture shows where the cuts were made and the approximate routing. I had them put in 3 feet exactly of flex line, a little more or a little less would also work. I also have a centri in the way and it fits around that as well. I did manage to accidentally unplug that front right wheel speed sensor on install, so look out for that.
Do you have a picture of the new line?
How long was the new section?
I’m so disappointed with the XPS headers, They have given me several problems besides the AC, I think dozens of people have had similar issues.’
I should have spent the extra $ and bought a reputable brand name header.
At any rates I’m on my third line, I’m fed up, need to re-route.
I was planning on having a custom shop replace the yellow part of my design with mostly aluminum and a small rubber section for some flexibility..
If your rubber replacement works fine I may just do that instead.
AC. Reroute
Anyone have any opinion on these?
https://www.corvettemods.com/C5-Corv...t_p_21117.html





https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...emods-com.html
I did have a bad experience a few years back with a HID headlight kit, that had wrong connectors and missing a relay. When they finally sent the relay it wasn’t PnP as they had advertised. I took me 2 weeks of emails and calls to finally get a refund.
I guess they cab screw up AC lines just as easy as HID kits

I won’t buy it. Was wondering if anyone else had any experience with these lines
Do you have a picture of the new line?
How long was the new section?
I’m so disappointed with the XPS headers, They have given me several problems besides the AC, I think dozens of people have had similar issues.’
I should have spent the extra $ and bought a reputable brand name header.
At any rates I’m on my third line, I’m fed up, need to re-route.
I was planning on having a custom shop replace the yellow part of my design with mostly aluminum and a small rubber section for some flexibility..
If your rubber replacement works fine I may just do that instead.
AC. Reroute
I've had no problems at all, it's been ice cold ac since I did that fix. I get condensation on the outside of the car haha.
During my first hose change I put on the newer version compressor (V7?). I've tracked the car last summer and was able to run ac full blast.
I neglected to take a picture of the modified hose, but the guys put in a 36in. rubber hose section exactly where I have it marked in the drawing.
The hose is the same kind of flex hose that was in the section that was getting melted.
If I did it again, I would make a slight adjustment and see if they can get the flex hose even closer to the compressor connection. This is because the only real difficult part was getting the connector on with the subframe getting in the way since the hose now bends down and forward. If I remember correctly, I had to take the compressor back off, connect the new line then re-mount the compressor.
Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 13, 2021 at 02:18 PM. Reason: clarity
He said he’ll melt away the tube from the upper block and weld a new curved tube closer to the block to address the reasons you describe.
I’ll update my prototype to mimic this as much as possible and then test fit it for install issues.
Ideally I would like to sneak this in from the front top between the headers and the AC compressor.
If get enough clearance for the block to squeeze through I will be all set as the back line is now over the fender and the front line is easier to route to the condenser.
I’ll update as I make progress.
i tried to fit my prototype, which I modified per you comments, without removing the header, not enough clearance.
did you remove the header?
Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 08:51 AM.
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I didn't have to remove the header.
Okay, I'll try to get some pictures this evening.
Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:13 AM.

Last edited by grinder11; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:28 AM.
Then... when I was doing my clutch/t-tube/trans/diff job last month I found out that they rub on the new SFI bellhousing (found out my stock 2 piece was cracked and only connected to the T-tube with two bolts) and had to knock a dent in the collector, both sides. I don't feel bad about the bell housing not fitting, that's aftermarket on aftermarket. But there is no reason for rubbing stock steering columns and blowing out stock AC lines though.
In all fairness vendor agreed to swap out bad parts but would not cover the cost of ceramic coating I added after purchase.
so I chose to not throw more good money after bad. But with 3 AC line replacements I already spent more than if I would have bought LG’s or AHR.
bottom line: steer clear of XPS, many issues.
Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 12:45 PM.
passenger side so far away a from the oil pan, it causes header to kiss then AC line. Headers are so off normal manufacturing tolerances makes me think there was no QC before they shipped.
Brett told the the 90 degree angles are small so maybe I they will work. I’ll ask for some pix to determine if viable,
The last picture, I bent the tube near the accumulator about 1.5 “ towards the frame. This makes it a straight line to the front and also allows clearance if you need to work on spark plugs or header flange gasket, etc
Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:01 PM.
At the accumulator - you can see the tig weld of one end of the modded section.
As it travels forward - towards the back of the centrifugal.
Heres where it turns down towards the compressor. Just forward of the dip stick and oil fill for reference.
Looking straight down - the hose snakes under the side of the compressor makes a bit of a loop, then meets the connector at the back.
Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 15, 2021 at 12:18 AM.
I was worried about kinks in the line when the line curves down to the compressor. But looks like you didn’t have any issues. I’m planning on installing A&A supercharger in May. If I go with a longer line (to avoid kinks) , is there enough clearance beneath and to the right of blower bracket to return to accumulator?
At the accumulator - you can see the tig weld of one end of the modded section.
As it travels forward - towards the back of the centrifugal
Heres where it turns down towards the compressor. Just forward of the dip stick and oil fill for reference.
Looking straight down - the hose snakes under the side of the compressor makes a bit of a loop, then meets the connector at the back.
I was worried about kinks in the line when the line curves down to the compressor. But looks like you didn’t have any issues. I’m planning on installing A&A supercharger in May. If I go with a longer line (to avoid kinks) , is there enough clearance beneath and to the right of blower bracket to return to accumulator?
Here, I marked it in red.










