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2002 C5Z AC Hose mod - Headers too big

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Old May 5, 2020 | 02:49 PM
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Default 2002 C5Z AC Hose mod - Headers too big

Hey all,

Wanted to put this out there for anyone having this problem. I inherited some huge XS power headers that burned through my old AC line in a heartbeat. It also burned through the replacement.

I used some metal wire to estimate how long of a custom flex line I would need cut into my new (but burned through) line and took it to a local shop that made it for 40 bucks. It now fits great and works.

This picture shows where the cuts were made and the approximate routing. I had them put in 3 feet exactly of flex line, a little more or a little less would also work. I also have a centri in the way and it fits around that as well. I did manage to accidentally unplug that front right wheel speed sensor on install, so look out for that.


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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 08:19 PM
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Did you have any pressure problems with such a long rubber hose? Is the air cold enough?
Do you have a picture of the new line?
How long was the new section?

I’m so disappointed with the XPS headers, They have given me several problems besides the AC, I think dozens of people have had similar issues.’
I should have spent the extra $ and bought a reputable brand name header.

At any rates I’m on my third line, I’m fed up, need to re-route.
I was planning on having a custom shop replace the yellow part of my design with mostly aluminum and a small rubber section for some flexibility..

If your rubber replacement works fine I may just do that instead.

AC. Reroute

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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 08:28 PM
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This set is actually a 2 piece replacement. I’m thinking it easier to install after mod’ get it.
Anyone have any opinion on these?

https://www.corvettemods.com/C5-Corv...t_p_21117.html



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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 09:10 PM
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Careful, there's a lot of bad feedback about that company
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...emods-com.html
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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 09:43 PM
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Thanks.
I did have a bad experience a few years back with a HID headlight kit, that had wrong connectors and missing a relay. When they finally sent the relay it wasn’t PnP as they had advertised. I took me 2 weeks of emails and calls to finally get a refund.

I guess they cab screw up AC lines just as easy as HID kits
I won’t buy it. Was wondering if anyone else had any experience with these lines
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Old Apr 13, 2021 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HT99
Did you have any pressure problems with such a long rubber hose? Is the air cold enough?
Do you have a picture of the new line?
How long was the new section?

I’m so disappointed with the XPS headers, They have given me several problems besides the AC, I think dozens of people have had similar issues.’
I should have spent the extra $ and bought a reputable brand name header.

At any rates I’m on my third line, I’m fed up, need to re-route.
I was planning on having a custom shop replace the yellow part of my design with mostly aluminum and a small rubber section for some flexibility..

If your rubber replacement works fine I may just do that instead.

AC. Reroute
I should first mention, my problem is exasperated by my compressor being relocated lower on the passenger side to make room for the centrifugal.

I've had no problems at all, it's been ice cold ac since I did that fix. I get condensation on the outside of the car haha.
During my first hose change I put on the newer version compressor (V7?). I've tracked the car last summer and was able to run ac full blast.

I neglected to take a picture of the modified hose, but the guys put in a 36in. rubber hose section exactly where I have it marked in the drawing.
The hose is the same kind of flex hose that was in the section that was getting melted.

If I did it again, I would make a slight adjustment and see if they can get the flex hose even closer to the compressor connection. This is because the only real difficult part was getting the connector on with the subframe getting in the way since the hose now bends down and forward. If I remember correctly, I had to take the compressor back off, connect the new line then re-mount the compressor.


Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 13, 2021 at 02:18 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old Apr 13, 2021 | 02:12 PM
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I spoke with Brett at https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com in MI.
He said he’ll melt away the tube from the upper block and weld a new curved tube closer to the block to address the reasons you describe.

I’ll update my prototype to mimic this as much as possible and then test fit it for install issues.
Ideally I would like to sneak this in from the front top between the headers and the AC compressor.
If get enough clearance for the block to squeeze through I will be all set as the back line is now over the fender and the front line is easier to route to the condenser.

I’ll update as I make progress.
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Old Apr 13, 2021 | 02:25 PM
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MultiVAC, can you upload some post install pictures?

i tried to fit my prototype, which I modified per you comments, without removing the header, not enough clearance.
did you remove the header?

Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 07:58 AM
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Dealing with the same issue, would love to see pics of the workaround.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HT99
MultiVAC, can you upload some post install pictures?

i tried to fit my prototype, which I modified per you comments, without removing the header, not enough clearance.
did you remove the header?
Originally Posted by Efx
Dealing with the same issue, would love to see pics of the workaround.
Strange - I have more than enough room since that line now goes forward then up behind the centrifugal then back over the header. They don't even come close to occupying the same space.
I didn't have to remove the header.

Okay, I'll try to get some pictures this evening.

Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 09:26 AM
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Just curious guys, but what brand headers are you having issues with? If my Kooks 1-7/8" tubes were 2", I'd still clear this line by about an inch. I don't have a blower to contend with, however. Gee, I wish I DID, though!!!!

Last edited by grinder11; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:28 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Just curious guys, but what brand headers are you having issues with? If my Kooks 1-7/8" tubes were 2", I'd still clear this line by about an inch. I don't have a blower to contend with, however. Gee, I wish I DID, though!!!!
XS Power - I inherited them with the car so I'd have to caliper them to confirm primary size, but they should be 1-7/8". It seems fitment issues are common for this brand. I also had to knock a dent into the driver's side on one of the primaries since I had rubbing on the steering column.

Then... when I was doing my clutch/t-tube/trans/diff job last month I found out that they rub on the new SFI bellhousing (found out my stock 2 piece was cracked and only connected to the T-tube with two bolts) and had to knock a dent in the collector, both sides. I don't feel bad about the bell housing not fitting, that's aftermarket on aftermarket. But there is no reason for rubbing stock steering columns and blowing out stock AC lines though.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
Just curious guys, burnt what brand headers are you having issues with? If my Kooks 1-7/8" tubes were 2", I'd still clear this line by about an inch. I don't have a blower to contend with, however. Gee, I wish I DID, though!!!!
XPS 1 7/8”, they perform well but are crappy to install. My issues: burnt the AC line, driver side flange to mid pipe way of center affects alignment all the way back to the over axle pipes on cat back exhaust. Which vibrates on frame. Had to heat wrap it to get rid of the noise. Bottom of overaxle pipe hits top of manual transmissions metal round piece that holds it place, more wrapping.

In all fairness vendor agreed to swap out bad parts but would not cover the cost of ceramic coating I added after purchase.
so I chose to not throw more good money after bad. But with 3 AC line replacements I already spent more than if I would have bought LG’s or AHR.

bottom line: steer clear of XPS, many issues.

Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 01:00 PM
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Pfadt tri y 1 7/8 here
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 04:22 PM
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These pics show how badly formed the XPS HEADERS are. Driver side was to kissing the oil pan, I had to remove 1/8” from the oil pan corner.
passenger side so far away a from the oil pan, it causes header to kiss then AC line. Headers are so off normal manufacturing tolerances makes me think there was no QC before they shipped.




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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 08:57 PM
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The modified proto would not clear the headers to to AC ports, I removed the passenger from wheel and was able to jimmy it through the passage way on the frame to the inside of the engine bay. I fished in the front line first then fished in the rear line then the block. I fastened all three AC line points to the accumulator, AC compressor ports and the front condenser. Looks like a good fit. The only issue is I was planning on have a 2x 90 degree aluminum tube to get the vertical part of the line by the fender but while installing, I had to bend the rear line quite a bit to get it in and I’m not sure if it will get in with the 2x 90’s. So I may just add about 15” of rubber that will lead the bottom line all the way to the radiator so I can get a smooth curve on the return over the fender to avoid kinks in the line.

Brett told the the 90 degree angles are small so maybe I they will work. I’ll ask for some pix to determine if viable,

The last picture, I bent the tube near the accumulator about 1.5 “ towards the frame. This makes it a straight line to the front and also allows clearance if you need to work on spark plugs or header flange gasket, etc









Last edited by HT99; Apr 14, 2021 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 09:48 PM
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I had enough room to add some heat barrier insulation from Heatshield Products between the header and A/C hoses, some of their hose insulation was put around the A/C lines in that area for more heat protection. These aren't XS headers though.


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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 12:09 AM
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Sorry for the delay - hopefully this helps make sense.



At the accumulator - you can see the tig weld of one end of the modded section.



As it travels forward - towards the back of the centrifugal.



Heres where it turns down towards the compressor. Just forward of the dip stick and oil fill for reference.




Looking straight down - the hose snakes under the side of the compressor makes a bit of a loop, then meets the connector at the back.

Last edited by MultiVAC; Apr 15, 2021 at 12:18 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 07:04 AM
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Thanks for the pix. Looks good.
I was worried about kinks in the line when the line curves down to the compressor. But looks like you didn’t have any issues. I’m planning on installing A&A supercharger in May. If I go with a longer line (to avoid kinks) , is there enough clearance beneath and to the right of blower bracket to return to accumulator?

Originally Posted by MultiVAC;[url=tel:1603306223
1603306223[/url]]Sorry for the delay - hopefully this helps make sense.

At the accumulator - you can see the tig weld of one end of the modded section.

As it travels forward - towards the back of the centrifugal

Heres where it turns down towards the compressor. Just forward of the dip stick and oil fill for reference.
Looking straight down - the hose snakes under the side of the compressor makes a bit of a loop, then meets the connector at the back.
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by HT99
Thanks for the pix. Looks good.
I was worried about kinks in the line when the line curves down to the compressor. But looks like you didn’t have any issues. I’m planning on installing A&A supercharger in May. If I go with a longer line (to avoid kinks) , is there enough clearance beneath and to the right of blower bracket to return to accumulator?
If you get the cut the line on the compressor side as close as possible to the connector it will have even more room for the curve than I did. Yes, in the final picture, the bracket to the right is my supercharger bracket.

Here, I marked it in red.


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