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Occasional grind going from 4th. to 5th. if not careful. Have read a lot of post and most indicate it is the solenoid gone bad. The code for this is P0801 I believe. I pulled the codes yesterday and have no codes at all on any issues which is a good thing but I would have thought I would get the P0801 if the solenoid was bad. What you guys think. Could it just be an intermediate issue with solenoid? I have no problem changing it out for around 70-80 bucks but it is a pain to get to. Thanks for your opinions
I don't recall getting a code when my solenoid was bad. As for a pain to get to, it's really not so bad. Just jack up the rear, and there's a good amount of working room around the trans. Definitely worth the peace of mind when shifting into 5th.
I don't recall getting a code when my solenoid was bad. As for a pain to get to, it's really not so bad. Just jack up the rear, and there's a good amount of working room around the trans. Definitely worth the peace of mind when shifting into 5th.
Thanks for reply, I have a pit in my shop so getting under it isn't a problem. Getting the elect. clip off looks to be the worst part.
Can someone explain to me how a bad reverse lockout solenoid can cause 5th gear to grind? It doesn't seem to me that you're trying to solve the correct problem. Maybe I'm missing something about your issue.
Can someone explain to me how a bad reverse lockout solenoid can cause 5th gear to grind? It doesn't seem to me that you're trying to solve the correct problem. Maybe I'm missing something about your issue.
With a bad lockout, it's very easy to miss 5th, and go into the reverse gate, which grinds. I drove like this for about 2 years before fixing it.
Not really hard to change out, except that it's all done by fill mainly, I changed mine out about two years ago, and the only thing I had to do was turn the key switch to the on position in order to push in the actuator, easy job especially for people with slender smaller hands, not unlike my meat paws. lol
Not really hard to change out, except that it's all done by fill mainly, I changed mine out about two years ago, and the only thing I had to do was turn the key switch to the on position in order to push in the actuator, easy job especially for people with slender smaller hands, not unlike my meat paws. lol
Yeah, I was completely winging the install without a guide, and this part tripped me up for a good 20 minutes or so (since I wasn't doing it). Probably brought it from a 30min job to an hour.
Not really hard to change out, except that it's all done by fill mainly, I changed mine out about two years ago, and the only thing I had to do was turn the key switch to the on position in order to push in the actuator, easy job especially for people with slender smaller hands, not unlike my meat paws. lol
Have read many post and no one has ever mentioned turning switch to on and push in actuator on the solenoid. To be clear, you have to connect the electrical connection to solenoid and turn on switch and push in actuator on the solenoid before you install back in the tranny?? Sounds like the new solenoid will not go back in tranny unless this is done, correct or am I confused which is very likely, LOL. Does the tranny have to be in any certain gear or neutral to install or any gear OK. Is the electrical clip hard to get off and any advice or trick to it since you are doing it with only one hand and blind or can you get both hands up there to do this. I guess you could hook the solenoid to a 12 source and push actuator in on the bench before installing in tranny if that is only way it will go in. I read where one guy took it apart and cleaned it up and operated it via a 12 source on a bench but it failed later so not going this route, FYI. Also have read where guys disassembled and installed a different spring to make it easier to get into reverse, I think they sell this weaker spring on some aftermarket store. Thanks guys I really appreciate the help.
Been a couple years since I replaced mine and don't recall if transmission has to be in any gear to install, so yes you have to connect new reverse lock out solenoid, then turn ignition switch to on position or power it on the bench and push in actuator/plunger to install. Connector is not too bad to disconnect and reconnect, it's just a tight space. Make sure you lift the car high enough to have adequate distance between floor and car. I believe I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and socket on the bolt retaining the solenoid as space is limited between transmission and car.
Replaced mine last year. Just left the shifter in neutral and had no problem installing the solinoid. Not sure how the whole thing works, but when power is not applied to the solinoid, the car can be shifted into reverse. When power is applied to the solinoid you can't go into reverse.