Hey All,

I'm thinking about getting FLP Headers. I know a lot of you have them out there and I was wondering if I would need to worry about additional mods to handle the increase in hhp. So far I've got Vortex Ram Air intake and Tri-flow exhaust.

Would I need to upgrade clutch or anyother component?

Escher

 

NO

 

Upgrade, only one would be ......... the wallet............. :lol:
Your right foot will be horizontal a lot more :D

 

I had the Blackwing, cf airbridge and exhaust when I added mine and it needed nothing else.

Just pu them in and enjoy them. :cheers:

 

Some cold beer would prolly complete your list.. :D

 

Lotsa band aids, iodine, and some new cuss words!
Really not too bad, I'm almost done with my install.

:cheers:

 

Hey Rapid Transit - I'm in the middle of install also. Did you or are you installing the O2 sensors in the new headers prior to putting the headers into position? The instructions say to do this and also to run a tap or similar though the threads to prevent problems. Was this necessary?

My problem: I removed the front O2's by simply unscrewing them..but the 5 cent piece of plastic that holds the wires to the car (push pin) is going to have to be broken to actually remove the O2 sensor and install it in the header before installation. I went to the dealer and this push pin retainer comes attached with a new sensor. So I either have to break this 5 cent piece of plastic and install one of my own design or leave it be and screw the O2 sensor in to the header once it is installed. Does this make any sense? Any advice? Cheers. :seeya

 

I had the O2 sensors installed in the pipes before I put them in the car. and you dont have to break those little plastic clips. Get a small flat screwdriver, then carefully pry between the top of the clip and the plug enough to get over the little key, then just slide the plug off of the clip. After installing the entire exhaust system and tucking the rear O2 wires back under the heat shield where they were, plug the sensors back together and then just use some tie wraps and secure the remaining plug and/or harness to the frame or the little brake lines or whatever to prevent it from coming in contact with the exhaust system. Oh yeah, as for using a tap to chase the whole, the threads in my pipes were already clean so i didnt have to use a tap. When i screwed the sensor in, it went it just fine. Also verify the threads where the air tubes hook up on the headers before installing the headers if you havent already. I just saw someone trying to run a tap through one the other day and he sheard the tap off in the hole. It would be much easier to check everything before installation.

 

AV8ter - Thanks again for the tips! I owe you, Patches, Black Magic and others. Couldn't do it with out ya! I have three pages of cut and pasted tips from all of you! So far so good. :flag

 

Already have :thumbs: I learned that decades ago.
Use cheap tools or don't know how to use them and................. :eek:

 

Cheers all FLP headers self installees! I having a problem removing the drivers side exhaust manifold bolt that is over cylinder number 7 (nearest the driver). The instructions say to remove the passenger side valve cover. It appears I'm going to have to remove the drivers side valve cover also to get at this bolt (not only to remove but also to install).

How does the air breather tube (or whatever) that feeds into the valve cover (over cylinder 7 nearest the driver) come off? Probably a stupid question for you folks but I can't get it to budge and am concerned about breaking anything! I want to pull the stock manifold out the top. Have moved the alternator as recommended. Passenger side came out easy.

AV8ter: I removed the front O2 sensor's clip just as you described. Thanks!

Thanks again for any advice. This is a 98 CapeCodCoupe. :chevy

 

Mark - I had no problem removing my stock exhaust manifolds with the valve covers on. :confused: But my 2001 has the cast iron manifolds which may be a different proposition than yours. I did have to remove the passenger side valve cover to install the FLP header.
Alan
:seeya

 

Alan - I think you were lucky! I just looked at Black Magic's FLP install pictorial again and the driver's side valve cover is off. Now if I just could figure out how to get that black plastic breather element out of the rear of the valve cover without breaking it I'd be on my merry way! :conehead

 

Figured it out...no brainer really. Valve cover is off, Bolts are out I'm moving forward! (slowly). Cheers.

 

I'm having a problem with the clamps supplied for the X pipe. I can't seem to position them within the tunnel properly so the bolts don't hang down lower than everything else! I need to reverse everything BUT they are tack welded preventing me. I want the nut end of the bolts to go up but there are these little tack welds!

If I'm making any sense at all for those that have worked with these clamps. The only way I have room in the tunnel (and keeping the clamp and bolt ends out of the wind) is to have both clamp assemblies (the bolts) to the passenger side of the tunnel. But this seems impossible because of these little welds preventing total disassembly of the clamp. Do I need a machinist or have I just got it all wrong? Hoping to here your advice...

Also are the two bolts to move the starter out of the way directly over my head when I'm under the car lookin up?

Slow & steady... Thanks to all. :confused:

 

Woops! There I go again embarrasing myself. I got the clamps apart and now can arrange them the way I need them!

Now the starter bolts. Which ones to loosen? Should I wait on this to see if absolutely necessary? :D

 

What about BBK Series headers?Do I really need to go with longtube headers? :confused:

 

the only reason i had to loosen the starter was to get the header into the car from the top,,,,,if you have the header in the car already then you dont need to bother with it,,,,,,if not,,,then the 2 bolts are going straight up and are located right below the starter on the aft end where it goes into the bell housing,,,,,,i took both bolts out which allowed me to move the forward end of the starter up and then allowing me to get the header in,,,,afterwards you wont be able to get the bolts back in the starter straight from the bottom because the header will be in the way,,,,,,so now just turn the starter at about a 45 degree angle,,,puts the bolts in,,,and then turn it how its supposed to be and install it and tighten the bolts,,,you shouldnt have any problem with that,,,,,,,,,,as for the clamps on the crosspipe,,,,,,,,mine are installed where the bolts are pointing up and on the left side (driver side) of each pipe,,,,,,i got a pic of it if you want it,,,,,,i went out to my car and took one just for you,,,,,haha

 

my hardest part putting i the flp's was getting the drivers side manifold out :cuss other than that it went smooth

 

CapeCodCoupe:
Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I went out of town for vacation and had to stop the install, well I'm still on the road so I'll tell you what I can. I did remove the starter, valve cover, spark plugs, and plug wires (all on the driver's side). In addition I also loosened the steering shaft and moved it aside. This provided the maximum room to remove the manifold and install the header, from the top. I stopped after I lined up the driver's side header and the cat. I'll try out the system with the cats first, if I want more sound/power then I'll get the sims. You're probably finished by now.

:cheers: