Car is 2002 Z06. So doing a LED swap of some things using RadioFlyers interior swap kit, everything is moving along nicely until I get to the HUD controls (last item left to do ugh). Plugged everything back in to test, and no lights but all HUD functions work.Took it out, reversed LEDs, still no lights. Then I thought maybe it's something I did with the LEDs. The kit came with only (1) 8mm LED for the dimmer. 10mm LEDs for everything else even though the original bulbs were 8mm in the whole HUD. Radioflyer said if the 10mm doesn't fit, you can swap the LEDs onto your original 8mm bulb bases and it should work. So that's what I did. I tested the LED's on a 9volt battery to verify my swapping of bases didn't damage the LEDs and they light up.

Is it possible to damage the board internally only affecting the lighting, but not any of the controls? Does anyone have a schematic of the HUD Harness and board controls? Trying to see if the illumination has a different power input on the harness than the functions. I'd greatly like to bench test this with a 9v or test light out of the car before buying a replacement HUD switch. Any help is appreciated.

 

Anyone possibly have the wiring schematic or pin out for HUD switch? Been trying to find a way to bench test or check for continuity for the button lighting of the HUD controls. Everything functions and works, except the illumination of the buttons. I've tested the LEDs on a 9 volt to verify they work, I swapped their orientation a few times, and the buttons just wont light up. I swapped the DIC bulbs over to LED without a single issue and the cluster operates just fine as well. Hoping to have a way of troubleshooting my switch before buying a new one, I hate just throwing parts at a problem.

Thanks for any help

 

Contact RadioFlyer to replace the LEDs you got from him. The contact surfaces for the LEDs would seem to not be making contact in the switch assembly.

Gary

 

Small Update:

Had some time to investigate a bit. I first wanted to rule out the HUD controller being bad, so tested continuity with the LEDs out from bulb contact to bulb contact on the board of the controller. I tested good continuity from bulb 1 to bulb 4 on both sides ( negative and positive). So I'm fairly confident the controller is fine. Installed the LEDs and used my battery leads on the back of the LEDs to test for light directly. Bulbs 2,3,4 all light individually, and together. Going good so far, Bulb 1 (dimmer bulb) no light, switch it around still no light. Take Bulb 1 out and disassemble the LED from the base to see what's wrong and I find this....



Turns out 1 tail of the LED in the dimmer bulb had broken, but I couldn't see as it was held in place with the base. Tiny dab of solder and test that the LED lights on my battery. Install it back into the controller and repeat the test with the battery and all 4 bulbs now light up!!!



I'm about done for the day, but I'm cautiously optimistic it'll work back in the car. Just weird how one broken bulb lead would affect all 4 lights. I would have guessed it would operate the other 3 lights as though there was a burned out bulb, but I'm happy it doesn't look like I need a new HUD switch. From here there's only really the 11 pin harness to the cluster that could be wrong if it doesn't work in the car.

I'll post up the final conclusion hopefully this weekend when I have some time to put the car back together

 

Well, still doesn't work. I've bench tested the DIC buttons with my 9v directly applying power to the back terminals of the leds to verify my bench testing method is correct and they light on the table and in the car. But for some reason my darn HUD controls refuse to light up in the car but all the functions work. Without a wiring diagram of the 11 pin harness to the HUD switch I dont have a way of testing if the cluster is sending button illumination power to the HUD controls. I can only assume it is since the hud controls and functions have power work fine.

Seems like I may have to order a replacement HUD switch after all, and hope it works. If the new one doesn't light up either, I'm going to have to find the cluster wire diagram. Ugh....hate throwing parts at a problem.

 

Pin 6 is +12v. Pin 7 is ground.
Pin 1 is the bottom pin in the connector. Pins 6 and 7 are in the middle of the connector. The wires for this are White and Brown, White is Pin 6 and Brown is Pin7.

I still say you need to contact the vendor you purchased through for replacement LED's.

Gary

 

thank you very much! I just put the whole car together again before seeing your message ugh. Will have to wait for another day to figure it out.

Also just thinking out loud, i don't believe the LED are an issue in regards to making contact to the board because if i applied 9v power to one led, the other 3 would light as well. If they were not making good contact to the board, only the one I was directly powering would light up. It didn't matter which led I applied power to, the other 3 would also light. So that would lead me to believe that they were making good contact. Ill have to keep playing around next time I get a chance