Over the weekend I started to change out the base muffler on my 97 C5 to Zo6 Muffler. I did this on the floor and my research indicated I need to lift the rear up from ground least 30 inches to remove the muffler w/o cutting. Well needless to say needed more than that. After multiple attempts to lift up the rear high enough to get the muffler out( lifted up 3 times ) finalyy got the mufflers out but I didn't put in the ZO6 mufflers because I was beat, It was very hot and humid after spend good length of time I decided to finish up next weekend.
I have few questions:

1 st question: I have to drop the rear sway bar in order to do that i had to remove the two bolts on each side. the lower bolt to sway bar is long bolt that goes through the lower control to suspension crossmember. The vehicle is currently on the ground I didn't tighten the bolt down there fore the lower control arm at rear moved a bit. Do I need to get alignment because of this?

question 2: on both sides of the rear frame wall there is a ground. looks bit rusty so i want to remove the ground and clean it. anyone know what those twoground are for?
Do i need to disconnect the battery when I remove the ground from frame to clean up the rust.


lower bolt goes through lower control arm to sus. x member & sway bar

 

Don’t have time right now to look at the ‘97 SI but this is for my ‘01 !!..BTW, all odd numbered grounds are L/H and even are R/H !!..I usually clean my grounds with a wire brush attachment connected to my drill. No need to disconnect the battery !!

 

No you won't need a alignment after lowering the sway bar. When you reinstall it, torque the lower nuts to 70lbft the upper bolts to 49lbft.

 

If you are not having any electrical issue, before you remove the wires from the rusted stud, and possibly snap the stud off, spray the wires and stud with ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula and let it do the work for you., just google (ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula) as we use this product in the aerospace industry and get a spray can shipped to your house.

Goose

 

Is it really necessary for us to remind you how unsafe that "lifting procedure" is???

 

I was just going to say the exact same thing. Rather than take a chance on my life. I just opted to cut the old exhaust out.

 

The problem is he's installing Z06 Ti's, which are equally long and require the same amount of height to install.

Aftermarket exhausts avoid all of this. I agree though, I would not spend anytime under that car. Worth it to go to an exhaust shop, they're not expensive.

 

Most of us here are aware of the need for the added height to R&R the mufflers on a C-5. However, there's a safe way to do this, and a "not too safe" way, as well. If nothing more, the OP needed to get some "stuff" under the rear tires of his car, to support it, "just in case"................

 

Seems he has a pair of jackstands. They look like they may be under the jacking points.

 

On one hand, you're right, and I sort of overlooked them. HOWEVER, if that jack suddenly fails and lets the car drop, even with jack stands there, there's going to be a sudden "weight shift", which could potentially slide the stands out of position.

Bottom line, there's absolutely NO WAY I'd work under that car, the way it's lifted.........

 

Remove muffle loosen two clamps connecting to the under pipes . It’s not that hard face them up I believe and pull re set same way you took out . Good luck . You can use a cross beam and just lift up the rear ended at the cradle points the solid points connecting a arms . Lift way they usually have rubber supports on the jack cross beam . I think the jack and beam will cost you about 149 to 249.00 depending on what style jack you want a low profile heavy duty jack is nice I have a 3 ton and 6 ton myself . Block the front tires also .

 

On that angle you better have GOOD wheel chocks firmly engaging the front tires. The way it sits is very dangerous. Also, if it is an automatic, be careful of the transmission harness connector. If you start forcing the right muffler, the flange can be hitting it or the wires and you won't know it. It was more than 30"and I had to drop the sway bar.

That pic is too much risk to save a relatively small amount of money.