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After the slave cylinder blew a line a replaced with a stock gm with a bleeder line. Got everything all hooked up . Clutch inside was installed about 500 miles ago worked fine before the line blew off. Installed a tick performance adjustable clutch master cylinder. Bled the clutch at the bleeder at least 15 times at the bleeder to ensure no air was coming out. Started the car up and it won’t shift into gear still. Possible the master cylinder isn’t adjusted correctly?
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 29, 2020 at 12:37 AM.
After the slave cylinder blew a line a replaced with a stock gm with a bleeder line. Got everything all hooked up . Clutch inside was installed about 500 miles ago worked fine before the line blew off. Installed a tick vperformance adjustable clutch master cylinder. Bled the clutch at the bleeder at least 15 times at the bleeder to ensure no air was coming out. Started the car up and it won’t shift into gear still. Possible the master cylinder isn’t adjusted correctly?
After the slave cylinder blew a line a replaced with a stock gm with a bleeder line. Got everything all hooked up . Clutch inside was installed about 500 miles ago worked fine before the line blew off. Installed a tick performance adjustable clutch master cylinder. Bled the clutch at the bleeder at least 15 times at the bleeder to ensure no air was coming out. Started the car up and it won’t shift into gear still. Possible the master cylinder isn’t adjusted correctly?
Its not only possible that it's not adjusted right, it's likely. Dont try jamming it into gear as a test or you're going to hurt your synchronizers. Put the back of the car up on jack stands, with the engine off put the car in first and start the engine. If the wheels turn with your foot on the clutch pedal, the clutch isn't releasing fully and you need to adjust the rod. Kill the engine and adjust, repeat until the wheels don't turn with the clutch pressed.
Its not only possible that it's not adjusted right, it's likely. Dont try jamming it into gear as a test or you're going to hurt your synchronizers. Put the back of the car up on jack stands, with the engine off put the car in first and start the engine. If the wheels turn with your foot on the clutch pedal, the clutch isn't releasing fully and you need to adjust the rod. Kill the engine and adjust, repeat until the wheels don't turn with the clutch pressed.
The cars wheels will rotate if clutch is at the floor in 1st. I will try today to adjust the clutch master rod . As is I think it’s backed all the way out . Prob about a couple threads from the rod being off . I’ll back it down to about center and see what that does .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 29, 2020 at 12:28 PM.
Putting the jack up back on the rear end will lift it and adjust the clutch . I don’t have the return spring installed could this be causing the malfunction as well? I was told the car didn’t need the return spring after this master cylinder . What a pita this job has been body hurts head to toe.
Here’s what I’ve come to . Car starts . Won’t go into gear with pedal all the way to the floor . However if I apply about half the distance the car will shift into gear and not move forward or reverse until letting the clutch pedal out! What’s seems to be going on with my adjustments?
Holy shot I think we are getting somewhere I just got it into 1 st and second reverse stills a little help but a think a few turns more it will be set . Hopefully fingers crossed .
And walla thanks guys for chiming I’m any easing the pain with some great insight from experience.
Had it out for a test seems something is still off . Like there’s not enough let back off the clutch pedal . Clutch engages slips at 2000-2500 Rpms.
Dragging ? Do these thing get adjusted all the most of the way down and fully extend the top?
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 29, 2020 at 11:03 PM.
Officially done trying to adjust it . Going to a clutch shop tomorrow anything besides a basic adjustment or to make it work then I ask the shop for a quote to rebuild the torque and clutch assembly over again. Also be done with any after market parts on the clutch all together revert back to a stock master and send back that adjustable thing . Great thing will be is this time around it will all have a 2 year warranty on it all . Finally be done with it . I read some old threads seems these adjustable parts have a small window in which it works and many have faced a similar clutch action scenario with similar results with this exact part . To little it’s drag to much and your gonna ruin the pressure plate and housing it’s not worth the hassle at the days end .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jun 29, 2020 at 11:22 PM.
Got the car to the shop adjusted the clutch master still no luck . It only needs a slight press to engage but again it won’t extend back out like it should . So it was a nice quick conclusion the pressure plate or pilot isn’t doing something it should . Replacing the clutch entirely with a 2 year 20k mile warranty on all parts and labor . With the master cylinder in it. Finally looking up Should have the car back Thursday according to the shop which is actually pretty fast .