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Well that's a pathetic design. That looks like a lot of work for something that's rarely used. It should have no wear since it's only engaged while not moving. This car only has 42K and has never seen rain or snow. Since it's a 6 speed, I would only use it while idling and I get out. Breaks have never been serviced. Why is it out or need adjustment?
You have a 20 year old car that needs a small adjustment to the brakes. This requires a small amount of time on your part.
The amazing people on this board have given you directions on how to do it, but all you want to do is whine about the design. (which is quite good IMHO)
Maybe you can get hold of the C5 Engineering team and lodge your complaint. I'm sure they'll do a re-design for you. lol!
Actually, the engineers involved in the design are so depressed about how the world feels about their work, they are all on suicide watch.
This same design is used by other car makers, it is not a safety system, and fit for intended purpose. When uncle government mandated dual hydraulic brake systems, the mandate for an “emergency brake” went away.
To the OP, this is where we all post to get help from others.
After 20+ years or 15 years past it's peak, the old non-synthetic grease is dried out and dirty preventing the parts in the handle assembly from properly adjusting the brakes. If you remove the handle assembly and solvent clean it you'll see how well it was designed and built, just regrease it with some synthetic grease and it will function as designed for many years. The same type of old grease is also in both hood latches and rear trunk latch(s) so those will need, or need now, the same clean and regrease attention, just spraying WD40 on these assemblies won't achieve the same results. When adjusting the rear brake shoes don't make them too tight or the rear rotors will be very difficult to remove later on, the handle assembly will take up some shoe looseness when it's operating correctly.
Well I'm really confused now. I've seen many replies on regreasing the handle mechanism and many on pulling rotors and adjusting the shoes. I only want to do the one that's the problem.
So which is it? Is there a test/symptome to determine where the problem is? I don't want to mess with the an area that's working properly.
Last edited by RED-C5; Jul 8, 2020 at 06:44 PM.
Reason: add more info
Do the handle first, many times easier than taking the rear brakes apart. Remove the pass seat and unbolt the handle. From what you have said about no resistance, It was just like mine. But, I did the rear brakes first only to find the problem was the handle.
I don't have a power pass seat, just 4 bolts, then lift out. If you have a power seat maybe someone else can chime in on how to disconnect the wiring harness. I think it is 2 Torx bolts for the handle. Found this video https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...3&&FORM=VDRVRV
Last edited by Gary In NM; Jul 8, 2020 at 08:27 PM.
Reason: added video of seat remval
Since you have no resistance I would follow this remove rear tires . Look behind where your brake caliper on the bottom A arm mount there’s the brake lines . They have little ends that hook through into a foot and sometimes off the cable it will go if it lacks tension, old /wore wasn’t adjusted right they can’t fall out . If that’s not the case inside the drum e brake there’s metal springs longer ones also there are adjusters on the back could have some failed hardware inside . Either way the e brake is t so complicated . Last but not least you snapped the cable somewhere well before it can ratchet the e brake closed that might be a pain to replace not sure. They do get stretched over the years people take off not realizing its still engaged.
Last edited by Speedy007; Jul 8, 2020 at 10:52 PM.