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Trying to get my headlights to work properly. The motors are good. They go up with the switch but don't go back down. I replaced the headlight module as they wouldn't go up or down with the switch. I bought a used module and they go up. Is there anything else it could be before I drop the 770 dollars on a new module?
About a year ago my headlights stayed on and would not go down on my ‘99. To not drain the battery while the car sat, I unhooked the battery. After I reconnected the battery, everything worked fine. Has not happened again. The car was getting regular use and battery was not discharged. Battery cables were tight and had no apparent corrosion. No idea what caused this.
...They go up with the switch but don't go back down...
By any chance, do you have HIDs or LEDs, instead of OEM halogens? If yes, and you still have halogens in your hi-beams, try switching ON the hi-beams before turning OFF the headlights.
Other people have reported that when using HIDs or LEDs the headlight doors will go down if they turn them OFF while the engine is running.
When the headlights are turned on, does your gauge cluster still light up? If not, check fuse #2 in the passenger foot well and be aware that if this is the case you also have no running lights at the rear.
Another quick test is to pop the hood, stand in front of the driver door with the window down and turn the lights off. Quickly go turn the manual **** on the lights to see if they go down. If they do, the module is not the problem. Check the small white plastic bumper pieces to see if they are missing or have a big dent in them. Mine are notorious for failing.
Another quick test is to pop the hood, stand in front of the driver door with the window down and turn the lights off. Quickly go turn the manual **** on the lights to see if they go down. If they do, the module is not the problem. Check the small white plastic bumper pieces to see if they are missing or have a big dent in them. Mine are notorious for failing.
After installing LEDs mine do the same. I have to turn the car on for them to go down. I'm assuming it's a low voltage issue
After installing LEDs mine do the same. I have to turn the car on for them to go down. I'm assuming it's a low voltage issue
It is not a low voltage issue, it is because the circuit doesn't see a path to ground through the bulb when you turn them off. Literally connecting pins 85 and 86 of a relay to the pos and neg wires of the bulb in parallel will fix the issue without buying resistors that generate tons of heat. You can do it right at the connector by the fender well. Even installing a tiny mini bulb under the hood in parallel would fix it as well.
It is not a low voltage issue, it is because the circuit doesn't see a path to ground through the bulb when you turn them off. Literally connecting pins 85 and 86 of a relay to the pos and neg wires of the bulb in parallel will fix the issue without buying resistors that generate tons of heat. You can do it right at the connector by the fender well. Even installing a tiny mini bulb under the hood in parallel would fix it as well.
It is not a low voltage issue, it is because the circuit doesn't see a path to ground through the bulb when you turn them off. Literally connecting pins 85 and 86 of a relay to the pos and neg wires of the bulb in parallel will fix the issue without buying resistors that generate tons of heat. You can do it right at the connector by the fender well. Even installing a tiny mini bulb under the hood in parallel would fix it as well.
Actually I do because I was the one who told RadiioFlyer/SharpLight Innovations how to resolve the issue they were having with their kits. I even have video of me cycling my doors with NO headlights installed.
If you have installed LED bulbs and the doors don't work, here is your solution. This draws virtually no current and creates no heat like the aftermarket power resistors do. It's so simple, you could even just install a mini bulb and have the same effect. Let me see what I can find in my texts and I will post. One note - the relay needs to have a resistor in it, not a diode. That is found on the relay schematic and if you do not understand, I can explain.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 14, 2020 at 11:18 AM.
Reason: add pics
This is how you you should power a harness you are running off the factory connector. This is why RF lights had the problems, they were not using the ACA harnesses with the relays, and there was no continuity through the circuit for the module to trigger and
close the door.
This is what I suggested they build for all their kits that were having problems because they were running ballasts straight off the car socket instead of through a relay as referenced in previous post) - connectors are easily avail aftermarket.
Even installing a tiny mini bulb under the hood in parallel would fix it as well.
Good call.
I did this when I put in led bulbs for my reverse light which would stay dimly lit, even when not in reverse or if the car is off. A small sealed incandescent bulb made sure my reverse LEDs turned off as normal.
Headlights go up not down
