Did I do something wrong?
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Did I do something wrong?
Hey guys, lowered my 2000 frc today, using stock bolts. Before lowering it. I measured 28 from floor to fender in the front and 28.5 in the rear..
Did the work. Drove it about 15-20 miles home. Front ended up being 27.25 and rear is still 28.5... I see people saying wait 200 miles. But shouldn’t I see some difference in the rear?
Am I an idiot and do the rear incorrectly (how can you mess up holding the top with a 13/16 and turning the bottom with a 18mm until there are 2 treads showing)?
Or just not being patient enough.
Did the work. Drove it about 15-20 miles home. Front ended up being 27.25 and rear is still 28.5... I see people saying wait 200 miles. But shouldn’t I see some difference in the rear?
Am I an idiot and do the rear incorrectly (how can you mess up holding the top with a 13/16 and turning the bottom with a 18mm until there are 2 treads showing)?
Or just not being patient enough.
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I’ve heard you should drive it 50 miles before, but never 200 for it to settle.
If your roads are very smooth maybe it will take a little longer. Maybe a couple of spirited launches would help speed up the process! lol
If it doesn’t eventually come down in the rear, get some longer grade 8 bolts.
If your roads are very smooth maybe it will take a little longer. Maybe a couple of spirited launches would help speed up the process! lol
If it doesn’t eventually come down in the rear, get some longer grade 8 bolts.
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Thread Starter
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measured last night, From the J and K points (looks like its the "jack" points", its 5" from the ground on the front and 5.5" from the ground on the rear.
Running 2754017 and 2953518 Nitto nt05 and I have a gap from the top of the tire to the fender of 2.25 and 3"
does this seem about right?
Running 2754017 and 2953518 Nitto nt05 and I have a gap from the top of the tire to the fender of 2.25 and 3"
does this seem about right?
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
You're talking about a 20 year old car, with a suspension that had been in one place, for all that time. Yes, it might take 200 miles.
The car was designed with the intention of the rear being a tad higher. It's called "aero rake", and it keeps air pressing down over the hood, which keeps the front end planted. With respect to your measurements, how do they compare to what you were at before you started making adjustments?
measured last night, From the J and K points (looks like its the "jack" points", its 5" from the ground on the front and 5.5" from the ground on the rear.
Running 2754017 and 2953518 Nitto nt05 and I have a gap from the top of the tire to the fender of 2.25 and 3"
does this seem about right?
Running 2754017 and 2953518 Nitto nt05 and I have a gap from the top of the tire to the fender of 2.25 and 3"
does this seem about right?
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The car was designed with the intention of the rear being a tad higher. It's called "aero rake", and it keeps air pressing down over the hood, which keeps the front end planted. With respect to your measurements, how do they compare to what you were at before you started making adjustments?
The front was 28" from ground to top of fender and rear was 28.5. So the front has lowered quite a bit, at 27.25. The rear is still at the same measurement....so maybe it will need to sit and adjust it self. I am going on a little 50 mile trip each way tomorrow night and I will measure when I get home.
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The front was 28" from ground to top of fender and rear was 28.5. So the front has lowered quite a bit, at 27.25. The rear is still at the same measurement....so maybe it will need to sit and adjust it self. I am going on a little 50 mile trip each way tomorrow night and I will measure when I get home.
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What you might try to do is using the "J-K" points and changing your ride height so that you have 1/4" to 3/8" rake front to back. For handling, if you are maxed out in the rear, you might raise the front slightly. However if it is just for looks, then you might have to get longer rear bolts to lower the rear 1/4". However, you do not want to bottom the bolts as it will adversely effect the bump stops of the shocks and give you rough ride when making high speed maneuvers, etc.
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What you might try to do is using the "J-K" points and changing your ride height so that you have 1/4" to 3/8" rake front to back. For handling, if you are maxed out in the rear, you might raise the front slightly. However if it is just for looks, then you might have to get longer rear bolts to lower the rear 1/4". However, you do not want to bottom the bolts as it will adversely effect the bump stops of the shocks and give you rough ride when making high speed maneuvers, etc.
yes, going to see if the back settles after a little 100mile trip tonight. Re measure the front and back J and K points. Hopefully the front will remain at 5” and the rear lowers to 5.25
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Huntersville, NC
when you lower, you change the alignment a good bit. You probably increased negative camber, added toe in in the front, and added toe out in the rear. The camber gain is probably not a big issue, but the tor change will wear the crap out of the corners of the tires. A 100 mile trip won’t correct this, and will be hard on tires.
If your suspension bushings tie rod ends are worn and ball joints are worn, that will show up at alignment. Otherwise, there isn’t any aging process that affects spring rate, so driving to get the suspension to “settle” is not necessary. If it is AFU, it will be that now and at 100 miles later.
If your suspension bushings tie rod ends are worn and ball joints are worn, that will show up at alignment. Otherwise, there isn’t any aging process that affects spring rate, so driving to get the suspension to “settle” is not necessary. If it is AFU, it will be that now and at 100 miles later.
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From: Western NY
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Not necessarily true.....one of the points that had been mentioned a number of times, back when these cars were new, and people like me were lowering them, it was commonly mentioned that the A-arm bushings take a "set" in their originally installed position, which IS determined when the car is assembled. Lowering the car, requires these bushings to rotate to a new position, and on an older car, this COULD take some time.
I just lowered a 2000 vert that had been sitting in the same position for at least 5 years. When I drove it the first 50 it didnt move, almost looked taller. After about 100 miles on crap Ohio roads it started to lower and after 250 miles its finally settled down.