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So it’s near 11pm and I just finished doing some maintenance and upgrades to the car. I added a line loc and I’m just looking for some reassurance that it’s correct before I attempt a burnout tomorrow. So the rear master cylinder port connects to the top “M” port on the line loc solenoid. The lower solenoid line is connected to the port in the proportioning valve that the other side of the rear master line connected. I hooked up the wiring and I can hear the solenoid clicking so at least that’s correct. Does the brake line connections sound correct ? Should I be on the other side of the proportioning valve ?
I'm thinking of doing a line lock system but thought I'd have to do it at the wheels. Won't the ABS try to apply the rear brakes when the back tires start spinning? Doesn't the ABS pump control pressure at the wheels regardless of what the master cylinder is trying to do?
I'm hoping your method is correct because it will be much easier to install than the way I was thinking of doing it.
Well, as it sits it appears like the functionality of the line loc is there. It’s pushing through the brakes at low rpm before the rear tires start spinning so I’m hoping a good bleed will get me where I wanna be. I’ll keep you posted...
Bleed the brakes and had a pretty good pedal. Tried the line loc and the car started to roll at 1300 rpm’s. A few pumps and a retry and something burst. It’s pissing fluid from the bottom seal of the line loc.
After a couple beers I thought about it and ended up tightening up the nut on the bottom of the solenoid. Seems to have fixed the leak but it still begins to roll at 1300 rpm’s. I’m gonna get a pressure tester and check the front pressure then bleed them again and check the pressure. Take it from there.
I switched it out with a B&M solenoid and I could immediately hear the solenoid clicking way more aggressively. After another good bleed, it works as advertised.
I run my 98-00 Combination Valve kits differently than you, see below. I interrupt the brake line coming out of the lower front port on the combination valve and send that into/out of the solenoid. Reason being, I didn't want to mess with any pressures within the combination valve itself. The way you have it running may or may not work, I can't confirm for a fact. I think it should, but like I mentioned, I never tried because I never wanted to lock any pressure within the combination valve itself. IF the pressure being locked in the combination valve doesn't affect anything, then you should be plumbed and working fine.
I’ll try an all out burnout later to be certain this method works. As of now, the functionality is there. Whether or not I can do a full John Force burnout remains to be seen. My entire motivation behind a line lock in the first place is because I have been having a huge issue even doing a burnout with the 12” wide wheels on a sticky race track.
Generally, it’s like attempting to do a burnout in a school bus....
YES, another line loc question
Rockin!