I bought a fuel pressure gauge to attach to the fuel rail. Any words of advice for the install? Do I need any type of thread lock to prevent leaks? Thank you for any help. Trying to track down a cold start problem.

 

Just tighten down the pressure gauge hose finger tight...shouldn’t be any leaks !!...what’s the issue ??

 

cold start longer than usual crank and/or flutter. Starts fine thereafter. I’m thinking fuel pressure is bleeding off overnight.

Do I take out the valve core on the fuel rail?

 

1.) take out valve core
2.) The fitting on the rail is AN....no need for thread sealant I would def do more than finger tight but no need to go crazy, snug it up.
3.) you might possibly need thread sealant on other connections depending on what they are. If NPT then yes. If AN, no. I like liquid teflon thread sealant.

 

This is how I connect my gauge to the fuel rail

 

I’ve never had a leak using finger tight...longer than normal cranking can be cam sensor issue...now what year is the car ??...you should always let us know this and if you have any mods...this helps us help you !!...best to put it in your profile...Ok, normal pressure pressure key on should be 55-62 psi...this pressure should not drop more than 5 psi in 10 minutes after the key is turned off...if you think this bleed off is causing your longer crank time turn the key on for 2 seconds and then start the car...let us know the results !!

 

thanks. 2001 coupe. 1 owner car with all service history. Cold start flutter/long crank. 68k miles. no codes. Starts fine after. Runs perfect.

no mods other than airaid and corsa.

New plugs, wires, fuel filter, cleaned maf, cleaned throttle body, new pcv valve, new o2 sensors, new battery, new starter. Can’t find any vac leaks. Coolant temp sensor looks to be ok.

intake manifold was taken off for valley pan gasket and oil pressure sender. Did they damage cam sensor? Thanks.

Cold start is the issue.

 

Also good to mention if issue started after having recent maintenance performed...did this concern surface after intake removal and reinstall ????

 

i can’t remember exactly. That’s part of the issue. It was also gone last winter in az but came back in the summer. It’s the definition of “intermittent”. Haha.

in my mind, it’s gotta be fuel. Or maybe a dirty injector?

what would you recommend?

 

thanks. I don’t have those tools. But looks great.

 

I’m guessing it’s a check valve issue. Does anyone know where the fuel check valve is in a 2001. Looks like they changed over the years. Thanks.

 

NEVER guess !!...you’d be wasting time and money !!

 

thanks. But I’m just trying to learn about my car, c5 diag, that’s why I’m asking these questions. I’m trying to evaluate the cost of the likely fixes.

 

It may not even be a fuel system issue !!...without some pinpoint testing like I have said you’d only be guessing...have to tried turning the key on for 2 seconds and then try starting the car to see if the longer than normal crank time disappears...it may be best for you to take the car to a shop and let them diagnose it for you...fortunately for me I have more diagnostic equipment than most shops and maybe even some dealerships to quickly and efficiently diagnose these problems.

 

yes, c5 diag. “Fortunately for you” you’ve made it abundantly clear over and over......and over again that you are the master at diagnosing issues and that you have all the correct equipment.

I only asked where my 2001’s check valve or valves is. I don’t know why you’re busting my ***** over such a simple question. Lol. You’re assumptions are condescending. Yes. I’ve primed the pump. Yes. The cars been to a shop. Although, the techs aren’t as good as you, they told me leaky injector or fuel check valve issue. Henceforth, my original question in this thread.

ive read all of your posts and you’re quick to point out that everyone (but you) is diagnosing things incorrectly. Chill dude. I’m just asking a simple question. Where are my car’s check valves.

perhaps you need to learn to answer questions posed, rather than talk down to people.

 

 

I feel your frustration, Been there with a fuel issue also, but my car was a foot away from a cliff, but before i was going to push it over. Then i thought of one last thing to try and it worked. Had a hole in a gas line on passenger side. I was focing on the gas pump side.

 

When you replaced your fuel filter, it was an AC Delco, right?

 

You have 2 basic questions. One about installing a pressure gage and one about a check valve in the fuel system. Your first question caused a bit of confusion because it was not clear you were thinking about installing a small gage on the fuel rail. Though many have done so, It really doesn not add a lot of value, and the install can be problematic.

There are two gages in the photo above. The blue-face gage is a fuel pressure test set about $40. The lower one is what many use as a permanent install. The permanent install can damage the aluminum fuel rail because you need a lot of torque to seal, and the schrader valve is removed. The assembly also vibrates and can fatigue crack. I would suggest you NOT install a small gage, It does not add troubleshooting value, and you have to put an eye on it, so the hood has to be up.

I suggest getting a good test gage and look for pressure drop.

Now the check valve question. To my knowledge there is no check valve on the fuel rail, and I did not see one called out in the fuel tank system parts diagram. There is a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, and it may SERVE as a check valve, but probably only when the rail pressure is at or below the regulated pressure. Attached is the parts pages for the fuel rail FYI.

It is understandable whyC5-Diag misunderstood your question. It was written to suggest you wanted to solve a problem. You may want to reflect on your later remarks....

My suggestion is to get a FUEL TEST rig and ask here how to troubleshoot your system. You may actually find the problem (though it may mean a fuel pump which is not a fun project).

 

Thanks. Fuel pressure is bleeding off overnight and back into the tank. My understanding is that there is one check valve in the fuel pump but I’ve also read that there is possible another fuel check valve. There are a lot of posts saying 10448899 is the check valve replacement but this part is discontinued.