Is the Bose unit behind the dash an amplifier for the door woofers, I thought I'd read there was an amp in each door? Hoping someone can post a quick rundown of the system please.

Both my factory head unit multiplugs have been chopped off. The cabling from one all goes into bullet connectors on my car, connected to an aftermarket HU. I'm getting sound all round but have only managed a very brief test. I'm not certain I have bass from the doors. I suspect not from what I've described?

I've got the dash all stripped down just now to fit a heater blend door so am asking incase I want to run any cables. I was thinking of running some cables for my own amp anyway.

Thanks

 

you might find answers here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...audio-faq.html

 

I did see that before I posted but the very first link about bose wiring didn't work!

I'm just after a brief summary of the factory Bose system which I imagine someone can give. I see the powered antenna set up behind the drivers seat.

 

I believe that each door has it's own amplifier.

 

Wiring diagram for 2002...

 

The Bose OEM system is very similar to a hometheater surround sound setup, with a receiver directly driving 4 small satellite speakers and complemented by 2 powered subwoofers.

The original factory system has the 4-main-channel speakers (FR, FL, RR, RL) directly connected to the headunit. They are driven by its built-in 4-channel amp. It also has 2 door-mounted powered subwoofers (their amps are mounted right besides them).

This system is based on a modified Delco head-unit, a Bose DSP box and 2 subwoofer amps that use pseudo-differential low level signals along with fully differential speaker level signals. The common signals are not standard and have a DC offset, so they cannot be grounded. That's why an interface is required to replace the headunit, while keeping the rest of the system intact.

Although it seems your system was not preserved when the aftermarket headunit was installed (judging by the connectors that were chopped off), I'm going to give you a quick rundown of the adapters in case it might be of help.
​​​​​
The 2 most commonly used interfaces are:

• AXXESS XSVI-2004
• PAC AUDIO ROEM-VET1

These adapters take care of all necessary interfacing and make the process plug-and-play, while preserving the OEM wiring.

Here is a diagram showing a replaced headunit while keeping the rest of the system intact (the diagram is the same for AXXESS or PAC adapters). ​​​​​​




NOTE: If you want more details on the Bose DSP module, click here.

 

Great info. Thanks very much to both. I presume the door subwoofers get their signal directly from the Bose processor? (I haven’t managed to examine the wiring diagram very carefully because I’m on my phone).

With my connectors behind the HU being cut, I imagine I was definitely not hearing door subs!

Thanks re the way my system should’ve been done when installing aftermarket HU. Good info. With my connectors cut I’m going to go aftermarket.

I have quite a selection of fairly old but good quality speakers at my disposal. Looks like 6x9’s are a decent plan for the doors, being able to mount them in butchered factory plastic apertures. 6.5’s for the rears are easy. I see a person swaps the connector female spades to speakers to make sure polarity ok.

I’ve a huge Alpine amp I hoped to use again one day. I’ll need to decide if I want to go ahead with it, and how to use it.

i understand modern head units employ a different system these days in relation to amplification. Providing high power I suspect they make using amp’s less necessary. I definitely want a sub though so we’ll see.

 

I've been following with great interest your C5 saga, including its trip from Spain to Scotland! Congratulations, once again!

You are correct, the door subwoofers get their signal from the Bose DSP. All original signal paths, along with filtering and processing, are detailed in the link I gave you above for the Bose DSP (click here). It will help you get a better understanding of the OEM system and hopefully make an easier task of troubleshooting the subs.

Regarding why your door subwoofers are not working, it's difficult to tell without knowing how your current aftermarket unit was installed. Let us know what you find as you keep on going.


If you decide to go this route, then it's better not to use at all whatever remains there from the original Bose system, and instead run new wires for your amp, speakers, etc.

 

Thanks GCG,

Yes I think best to run some cables and ditch the Bose stuff.

Regarding my car, I’ve sent off my application to register the car. Quite involved but I think I’ve got it all covered. With covid, I don’t know how long our “DVLA” (driver vehicle licensing authority) will take to send me my registration etc. I can then actually use the car legally. I should update my thread. The car passed it’s UK road worthiness a few weeks ago which was a good milestone to achieve.

I’ve a minor misfire but I’ve got new HT leads to fit (I should’ve bought new ones..) and might get the injectors cleaned. It generally seems to be starting running and driving good with no warning lights on. However I’m not certain the EBCM is fine. I’ve had intermittents from it. I’ll know more once I drive it more.

It’s been enjoyable to try and see it all through. Hoping to start enjoying it a bit and it becoming more of a “rolling restoration”

 

Here’s a quick explanation remove it and wire in directly your aftermarket set up it will sound so much better then that antiquated garbage ....it might sound so good in fact the Bose label on the door just might be believable then

 

Resurrecting this thread to ask...
Is the C3 connector redundant to C4?

I've been going through the Chilton prints and the (even better) ones posted on this site and this thread.

I have the OEM 1 PAC unit but I have nothing to connect to C3 and would rather not cut into those wires. . But I don't see a need for the C3 wires since they all seem redundant.

I am putting a new head unit in my car that I got with what looks like its second aftermarket HU (based on the abandoned microphone and horrible wiring). The PAC box was only connected on one side too. Thanks to all that is holy none of the factory clips were hacked off.
I'm trying to put the Bose system back online with my new HU despite the majority opinion on it around here. I'm not going to be a sound snob and will have the top off most of the time I drive it anyway.