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Bad ignition switch?

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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:07 PM
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Default Bad ignition switch?

Im looking to buy a ignition switch for my 2001 corvette but im not sure where to buy it or what brand. I know you don’t have to go cheap so im looking for recommendations as to where i can buy. Im just ASSUMING my ignition switch is bad as my car recently stalled out after i was driving, 3x actually...1x i was driving and it “turned off” but came back on By itself luckily (i was in a busy street) then the other 2 times it turned off while driving too but this time it didnt turned back on. Had to wait for a few seconds then i tried again and it let me drive it back home. I get that message that basically puts it in limp mode (just had a brain fart and forgot what exactly it said something about reduce engine power i think) and i had problems with my dashboard lights. It has a brand new alternator,battery and all the grounds have been cleaned and tighten so i think ignition switch is my last thing to replace. IF that doesnt help it might be the pcm or something along those lines.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 04:45 PM
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AC Delco would be my choice, but that said they are all made in offshore but I assuming a OEM part would be better quality. Reading your post I'm not sure there is enough info to say definitively its the ignition switch.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 04:57 PM
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I went with AC Delco from Amazon. It came in a GM box.
Amazon Amazon
Just put it in last week, wasn't too bad of an install.

Have you checked for fault codes? You may have a code which points toward what the problem is.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
I went with AC Delco from Amazon. It came in a GM box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013FU614/
Just put it in last week, wasn't too bad of an install.

Have you checked for fault codes? You may have a code which points toward what the problem is.
the only code that has a C is a for the ebcm (traction control and abs light) other than that i don't have codes
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tentuna
AC Delco would be my choice, but that said they are all made in offshore but I assuming a OEM part would be better quality. Reading your post I'm not sure there is enough info to say definitively its the ignition switch.
really? I read a couple forums and they had some of my same issues but not sire what else it could be, i have a new alternator,battery, all grounds are good. Im just willing to try the ignition switch if not then ill just return it and keep looking for the problem... its just that i get not codes related to that unfortunately
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by C5.dro
the only code that has a C is a for the ebcm (traction control and abs light) other than that i don't have codes
wait i did have 1 pcm code that was P1518 but it has a H no “C”....but i just fid a quick google check and seems like that MAY be the problem? You have any knowledge about that code?
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 08:23 PM
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H codes absolutely are relevant. They're only C when it's an active code. If you're not actively having the issue (i.e. engine having just shut off) then it will be an H.
Quick search on your code: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...vetteforum.com

I imagine that could cause your shut-off issue.
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
H codes absolutely are relevant. They're only C when it's an active code. If you're not actively having the issue (i.e. engine having just shut off) then it will be an H.
Quick search on your code: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...vetteforum.com

I imagine that could cause your shut-off issue.
oh okay thanks and yes thats the forum i had found when i searched up the code, now to pin point which part it actually it is lol the hardest part lol
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 01:41 AM
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Yes, sudden die and OK restart is often a symptom of a bad ignition switch. First, make sure the battery terminals are tight (FSM- 11 foot pounds) AND the cables can't be easily moved or turned at the battery terminals. Some side terminal batteries have been found to have shallow bolt holes which, even though the attaching cable bolt is tight, do not clamp the cable end to the battery tightly.
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jim993
Yes, sudden die and OK restart is often a symptom of a bad ignition switch. First, make sure the battery terminals are tight (FSM- 11 foot pounds) AND the cables can't be easily moved or turned at the battery terminals. Some side terminal batteries have been found to have shallow bolt holes which, even though the attaching cable bolt is tight, do not clamp the cable end to the battery tightly.
will check that thanks, ill still and up changing the ignition switch just incase for the future lol
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 09:03 AM
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Over time the ignition switch contacts become carbonized. Bill Currie did an article years ago on what to take apart and how to clean them, I believe it is in the above STICKY's. When my car had start problems I followed his advise and cleaned the contacts. Car start problems disappeared.
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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I had the same symptoms as you. Driving along and engine dies. Push in clutch and restarts just fine. Mine did this a couple of times. I ordered an Ac Delco ignition switch from rock auto. Easy install. My car has not done this again since and that has been 4k miles. Also my volts was reading low before now my voltage shows 14v when running.
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Daveinnola
I had the same symptoms as you. Driving along and engine dies. Push in clutch and restarts just fine. Mine did this a couple of times. I ordered an Ac Delco ignition switch from rock auto. Easy install. My car has not done this again since and that has been 4k miles. Also my volts was reading low before now my voltage shows 14v when running.
THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENT! I feel more comfortable now lol the part should be here in like 2 more days hopefully it works
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 05:15 AM
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[QUOTE=C5.dro;1602238257]. Im just willing to try the ignition switch if not then ill just return it and keep looking for the problem/QUOTE]

Please let me know what parts store lets you buy parts for testing and lets you return them later when you've misdiagnosed the problem.

Last edited by dmsog; Sep 29, 2020 at 05:16 AM. Reason: Clarity
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 06:24 AM
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[QUOTE=dmsog;1602259522]
Originally Posted by C5.dro
. Im just willing to try the ignition switch if not then ill just return it and keep looking for the problem/QUOTE]

Please let me know what parts store lets you buy parts for testing and lets you return them later when you've misdiagnosed the problem.
Idk if you genuinely asking or if you trying to be a karen....but all ill say is technically no store accepts returns but if you know, you know
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 09:14 AM
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How hard is it to replace ignition switch, is there a youtube or instructions on how to do this. Thanks
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bjones7131
How hard is it to replace ignition switch, is there a youtube or instructions on how to do this. Thanks
yea there is bro but I believe its easy amost like a plug and play once you disassemble under the steering wheel
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bjones7131
How hard is it to replace ignition switch, is there a youtube or instructions on how to do this. Thanks
theres a video on YT
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 11:45 AM
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It is pretty easy. You have to remove the front section of the center console (the radio bezel) and the upper steering column trim. Once those are out, the ignition switch and lock cylinder are held in by 2 screws. Those come out and the electrical connectors are unplugged. Then you can remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch: you gotta turn the lock cylinder (with your key) to the ON position, then there's a little recessed tab you press inwards, and the lock cylinder will slide out.
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MetalMan2
It is pretty easy. You have to remove the front section of the center console (the radio bezel) and the upper steering column trim. Once those are out, the ignition switch and lock cylinder are held in by 2 screws. Those come out and the electrical connectors are unplugged. Then you can remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch: you gotta turn the lock cylinder (with your key) to the ON position, then there's a little recessed tab you press inwards, and the lock cylinder will slide out.
Thanks, sounds easy enough. i assume the original key will still work on the switch or not?? Not having issues thankfully.
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