Oil pressure gauge
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 90
Likes: 30
From: Berthoud, CO
Mine just did the same a few weeks ago. When the sender finally fully failed while I was driving it threw P1635, gave the ole service vehicle soon message, and I barely got the car limped home.
Oil sender failure is a very common problem and it's a PITA to get to behind the intake manifold so I cut and extended the wires and relocated the sender to an oil port on the left side of the engine near the front. There is a plug with an 8mm hex (allen) head that you can remove and move to where the sender currently is. You can get to the plug without removing anything but it may be easier to remove the alternator the first time so you can find the plug easier the first time. Moving the sender here gets it away from more heat and vibration which can potentially make it have less failures, but also makes it a 5 minute task to replace the next time it fails because you can access it without removing any parts.
Vendors also sell relocation kits or there are some good threads on here detailing other options of buying a Buick sender and some other parts to relocate it yourself. I chose the different physical port relocation because it didn't require any new parts except a little wire and solder sleeves and is a cleaner install in my opinion.
Oil sender failure is a very common problem and it's a PITA to get to behind the intake manifold so I cut and extended the wires and relocated the sender to an oil port on the left side of the engine near the front. There is a plug with an 8mm hex (allen) head that you can remove and move to where the sender currently is. You can get to the plug without removing anything but it may be easier to remove the alternator the first time so you can find the plug easier the first time. Moving the sender here gets it away from more heat and vibration which can potentially make it have less failures, but also makes it a 5 minute task to replace the next time it fails because you can access it without removing any parts.
Vendors also sell relocation kits or there are some good threads on here detailing other options of buying a Buick sender and some other parts to relocate it yourself. I chose the different physical port relocation because it didn't require any new parts except a little wire and solder sleeves and is a cleaner install in my opinion.
Last edited by 1BadLS6; Sep 26, 2020 at 11:33 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 139
From: Surprise AZ
Well known issue. I have changed 2. The second time I went to NAPA and got the one with the brass body. You will need the special socket for it, available pretty much anywhere. Both times I changed mine I just pulled the intake manifold. Just easier in my opinion.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 553
Likes: 97
I second the brass models. I've had these die at least twice. GM offers crappy aluminum replacements that die in weeks sometimes.
Replacement is not cheap, at least 3-400 in labor. The intake manifold has to be removed to get to it without drilling holes.
Eventually, it will degrade to the point that it leaks oil.
Replacement is not cheap, at least 3-400 in labor. The intake manifold has to be removed to get to it without drilling holes.
Eventually, it will degrade to the point that it leaks oil.
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I did this also, a tad expensive but now if the sensor goes bad, 1 minute change out.
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I've had 2 sending units fail while I've owned mine. They've failed both ways; first time it pegged at 130lbs, second was more disconcerting-It read zero! That scared me. Like maybe a bad pump O-ring. I did what you did, and put a temporary gauge on it. I usually lean towards OEM parts when servicing my car. This sender is one GM OEM part I wont buy again....
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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
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From: Columbus, MS
When you're back there be careful not to knock the small vacuum line off the back of the intake manifold. It's a PITA to fish back out and reconnect, and it provides vacuum to your HVAC controls. Don't ask me why I know this.