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Hot air on drivers side, "cold" on passanger

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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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Default Hot air on drivers side, "cold" on passanger

Hello Guys,

So I have problem with the HVAC air flow..

The passenger side is fine and works through the whole span.
The driver side however.. Always hot, but in some way it seems to change the temperature when i adjust it.
- I have the adjuster set to maximum cold - Warm air blowing out
- I have the adjuster set to maximum hot - HOT air blowing out

I have read that the HVAC actuators can occur this problem, and i my case it seems to be the drivers side actuator.
I have tried to delete errors from DIC, I have reset the actuator system by removing the fuse but the problem still exists...

My AC system is not working due to a leak somewhere.

Any ideas except for changing the acuator?
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 02:32 PM
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What year? Need a little more info.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 05:19 PM
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Actuator blend door, 2x with mine. Mechanic was able to do a reset the 2x and is working fine. Common problem.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 01:05 AM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MrAcele
Hello Guys,

So I have problem with the HVAC air flow..

The passenger side is fine and works through the whole span.
The driver side however.. Always hot, but in some way it seems to change the temperature when i adjust it.
- I have the adjuster set to maximum cold - Warm air blowing out
- I have the adjuster set to maximum hot - HOT air blowing out

I have read that the HVAC actuators can occur this problem, and i my case it seems to be the drivers side actuator.
I have tried to delete errors from DIC, I have reset the actuator system by removing the fuse but the problem still exists...

My AC system is not working due to a leak somewhere.

Any ideas except for changing the acuator?
You have to fix your 134a leaks. Most C5s, if not all, will blow different temps on each side if there's not enough refrigerant in the system. Mine did exactly what yours is doing, until I had refrigerant added. My leak is in the evaporator, which means the dash has to come out. While I'm in there, I'm replacing everything that's questionable, including all actuators, the evaporator, and the 4 way flasher unit. Reason being most C5 owners will agree that removing the dash is a rather large PITA.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
You have to fix your 134a leaks. Most C5s, if not all, will blow different temps on each side if there's not enough refrigerant in the system. Mine did exactly what yours is doing, until I had refrigerant added. My leak is in the evaporator, which means the dash has to come out. While I'm in there, I'm replacing everything that's questionable, including all actuators, the evaporator, and the 4 way flasher unit. Reason being most C5 owners will agree that removing the dash is a rather large PITA.
This was my immediate jump to as well. I did all the tests to check the actuators and blend doors, etc. I applaud you tearing into it. I did the "kick the can down the road" and had a charge done, which has held all summer. Not a perfect solution by any means, but a solution.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 07:08 PM
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You asked for an idea that does not requiring changing the actuator so here is a poor idea. Pinch off the heater inlet hose. With no hot coolant circulating through the heater core you cannot heat the inlet air. I’m not suggesting this is a good idea but it might keep your car useable until you can get it fixed. Of course you won’t have any heat, or more importantly, defrost, in the cold weather though.
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Old Jun 4, 2022 | 02:51 PM
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Update some year later

I went for the challenge to remove and inspect the drivers HVAC actuator, i manage to find my way and locate it by laying uncomfortably with my head resting against the clutch pedal pretty much and my face facing up.

* First remove the very bottom kick panel just above the gas/clutch/break pedal(where the footlight is attached to)
* Then remove the Bose AMP, quite easy, just 2 7mm bolts and the socket connection of course,.
* Now remove the temperature tube(?) its easy, just grab it and separate it from the bigger tube
* Now you are able to see the HVAC actuator quite clear, grab your 1/4" wrench together with 5,5mm socket and loose the 3 bolt holding the actuator . Unplug the HVAC socket connection, slide the actuator out from the "arm"

Now i started my inspection of the actuator by removing the 3 Philips screws that holds the cover.
I did not see any broken gear, everything looked as it should be...(Not the result I wanted..)
Then i went back to the uncomfortable position with my head laying against the clutch pedal again and tried to manually move the "arm" with my hand, it was STUCK! (I then thought i was too week)
Sprayed some penetration fluid and used a plier to give me more leverage, Success! I then moved the arm back and forward a couple of times just to make sure it goes smooth.
Reinstalled the acuator and boom, COLD air on driver side

Thanks alot all of you

PS. I am 6.3, not fat.

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Old Jun 4, 2022 | 10:35 PM
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I had the same exact issue. For me, it was a missing relay and dirty grounds.
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Old Jun 5, 2022 | 06:01 PM
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Take the seat out when you have to go under the dashboard. It will save you many Chiropractor visits. And you might find some change.
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