When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have any of you replaced the clutch and components from the front side? Basically I may be pulling the engine and if feasible I may swap the clutch and components if it can be done without pulling the trans/diff.
Thanks!
Have any of you replaced the clutch and components from the front side? Basically I may be pulling the engine and if feasible I may swap the clutch and components if it can be done without pulling the trans/diff.
Thanks!
If you pull the engine out the clutch and all will come with it so there's no reason why not.
Yeah I can't think of any other pitfalls really. I've never pulled the engine only the powertrain myself. I've heard rumors that pulling the engine is hard but I'm not sure I believe it.
Yeah I can't think of any other pitfalls really. I've never pulled the engine only the powertrain myself. I've heard rumors that pulling the engine is hard but I'm not sure I believe it.
Well I'm almost down to the shortblock in the engine bay so not much can be in the way lol.
did you change the slave out from the front, i need to change my clutch and have the motor out now, just don’t want to drop the rear cradle
I’ve seen it done where they took out the rear differential. And slid it back . I found just dropping the rear works and is less challenging. Just don’t forget to un hook your shifter before you lower it lol
oh I went with Adjustable slave cylinder. One that could actual handle the power . Forget the brand but it’s on my build somewhere Mcload or something that
The motor can come out the top but you have to lower the front subframe with a factory C5 oil pan.
You can unbolt the the bellhousing from the torque tube or engine from the bellhousing.
The clutch will be on the motor for you to change.
If you go this route, I have found it best to support the torque tube as far up in the tunnel as possible without crushing wires, etc. when dropping the motor back in.
I've seen it done on YouTube. Guy pulled the engine out through the top. Apparently the hardest part was lining everything back up during reassembly with the engine hanging on the hoist. He was doing everything solo so it made it more challenging.
I've seen it done on YouTube. Guy pulled the engine out through the top. Apparently the hardest part was lining everything back up during reassembly with the engine hanging on the hoist. He was doing everything solo so it made it more challenging.
IMO it is, and lining the torque tube with the engine in place is easier than this.
I recommend a metal clutch alignment tool over the plastic one that is most clutch kits.
If when you get going in it and need help I can prob recall from memory how it’s done . I had to do this in total 3 times . The gm slave cylinder would not hold the power of my car and would either crack the housing or clutch line would burst. My the last one I did with that McLeod racing held up just fine under it all so before you go just swapping any old part in there . The new stuff on the shelf is what it is a guaranteed POS and waste of your time and or money on especially if a shop had did the work only for your clutch to fail . In now way is the a advertisement for any comp I’m sure they make other brands that are similar or well built it’s just what I decided to use with my south bend clutch ya boys the diesel clutch lol what do you all know about that huh . Thought so…shhhh it . lol could easily 1300 ponies die hard never kill it then .