I've been having the dreaded "steering leak from the wires" problem. We had the engine out of the car to do heads/cam/clutch, so we took the steering rack off. It was leaking anyways, so in a "what the hell" moment, my brother opened it up and started looking for a way to seal it up other than "just fill it with epoxy and pray".

After inspecting how it is put together, he determined that it would be better to have a groove machined into the magnasteer "cartridge" on the protrusion where the wire comes out. This will allow an o-ring to stay seated in one place instead of just being held together by the pressure of the assembly.

Wondering if anyone has any input on this idea. I'll try to get a couple more pics of the final product with the epoxy on it before it goes in the car.

Once we have it all in and the car is running, I'll give another update about whether it leaks or not.

 

Waiting to hear the result of this three years later like 💀

 

lol, my bad. I forgot I made this thread. I’ve got the car in the air right now for a brakes project. I’ll snap some pics when I get back under it and let you know.

I do know that it it still pukes power steering fluid out of the cap at sustained high RPM, so that sucks.

 

I just had my rack rebuilt by turn one but it turns out my leak was probably from the wires and they said it's not covered under their warranty so I'm trying to figure out what to do. Such a shitty situation... it was like $150 to ship it out to them and that doesn't even include the $400+ rebuild itself which it looks like I didn't even need. I may be double screwed because they slathered a bunch of epoxy on the wire area so I may not even be able to dig in there and try this o ring mod.

 

The dreaded hydraulic fluid leak at the wires coming out of the rack for the magnasteer. I designed then 3d printed a cup of sorts f you will from TPU95 a flexible material impervious to oil and sealants and epoxy etc.The cup has two holes in one end which the wires for the magnasteer are threaded through after removing them from the connector. The cup slides down to the rack via the wires. I filled the cup with epoxy, slid it into the area in question after cleaning as thoroughly as possible (spray brake cleaner) then wire tied it in place (part of the cup design). Let it sit for 24, added fluid and...............problem solved.

C5 Steering Rack leak at wires fix

 

That's sick! Are you sharing your file design? I'm working on fixing my leak right now and would love to give it a try

 

I'll be happy to send the file in whatever format you'd like. I designed it with Solidworks. Not sure how to go about this as I just joined this forum yesterday after reading the posts about the leak that can't be fixed. If you don't have access to a 3d printer and the appropriate material I'll simply send you a cup. Please note, this was designed for a 1997 Corvette. If your rack is a newer model let me know as I can modify the design for your particular purpose. Please advise

 

Provided the bore is clean/smooth, and you performed the calculation for o-ring compression, taking into account the o-ring material, o-ring cross-section, bore I.D., cartridge O.D., and created an appropriate groove width/depth.

 

NOW THIS IS INTERESTING!
So basically just drain your Power Steering fluid however. Clean everything good. Depin the connector. Then put this thru them and fill it with the clear epoxy too smush it in and wire tie.
I'd love to see any pictures you have of it on the rack & one of these for my 2003 would be amazing! I just have a blob of epoxy which works for now.

 

I just modified the design for a newer style rack for another guy from this forum, sent him the STL file. He's in the process of printing the part and smooshing it into place. My leak is 100% sealed yay!!

 

I would send you pictures if I was able. I'm 70 years young and would have to jack up the car yadda yadda yadda. I can send you pictures of the concrete underneath my car with no puddles! One added note, I don't think the wire tie or proverbial clamp is needed even though I designed the part with this in mind. Providing the area in question is clean the epoxy will likely hold it into place. My original design was a prototype from an idea. The dims were not exact. I showed it to the guy that installed the rack and he used it as is and t worked great. I didn't know he used it until the following day and the leak was no more! have since revised the hole diameters and the OD to match a slightly different style rack. If you have pictures of your rack assembled and installed etc. I can see what the design criteria is. My '97 rack is somewhat different around the area where the wires and the holder protrude through vs the rack from the other gentleman I forwarded the STL files to so he could print his own. He has additional work to do before he can install. In any case it seems to be a problem for lots of Corvette owners and I am happy to assist.

 

This is the part I designed for a slightly different rack than mine. From the pics I've seen on your post this may work for you as well (please note the word may).

 

hello, I’ve been battling this leak for a while and am incredibly interested in your solution. Could you send me a file to the part you mocked up for the rack? And if you have the time I’d love to direct message you about my 2004 rack and share photos of the leak to ensure I’m not wasting your time. I can pay for the part and the shipping or even the file if your confident in its effectiveness to repair the leak

 

I just sent a reply with my email address included but not sure it went through. I'll check again later. All this forum business kinda new to me all I ask is your patience. Once I get a look at your setup I can design whatever you need, print it and ship it to you. It'll be minimum expense, just shipping to wherever you are. I already have material. It's not a complicated setup or part so no problemo. Happy to help
M. Nix
mnix5477@gmail.com

 

Greetings,
It looks like I may be running into the same problem, though I haven't been able to confirm as that area is extremely dirty and haven't had a chance to clean it up.
I have an '01 and was wondering if I could get you to send me one as well. I'm willing to compensate you for your time and materials.
One other question, did you have to disconnect your steering rack from the car at all to get to it?

 

I fixed my leak by adding a similar o ring as described in this post, replacing the original “sandwiched” oring, reassembled the whole thing with new epoxy, and then using sealant and this cool cap assembly. I believe I fixed my wire leak. I think I have a small leak from the pressure lines still, because I’m not sure what the proper o ring spec is.

edit; let me know if you need one printed

 

MNIX, are you still willing to share the STL file for this part. I am working on a 2007 Cadillac XLR and am having a similar
problem. The XLR is a Cadillac Body on a C6 frame. If you are willing, or anyone else, my email is

dvercellinosum@gmail.com

I am a young 75 and still playing with cars.

Thanks for reading this and for your solution.
Dennis

 

I hope Michael is okay with me sharing this. With that said, Michael created this for the betterment of the community and I hope no one takes advantage of this by monetizing his design. I am attaching the STL in a zip file (because STL's are not accepted on the forum). The filament used is called "TPU." It's flexible and kind of rubbery. I used white Overture TPU from amazon.

"Thank you for your straight forward post. I have no desire to monetize my meanderings. I derive pleasure if I can help in any small way. The world is full if shysters. I'm 70 years old. I have some good designs for a variety of things out of necessity mostly as I have always done my own work on everything needing work excluding myself. My design for this can be improved. I did not install this rack as I don't have a lift etc. My mom's neighbor took this project on as a favor. He's a fabulous mechanic and about the only one I trust anymore. I bought this Corvette in 1998 and have done everything that needed doing (and lots of stuff that didn't need doing but I did it anyway) solo until now. After installing the rack is when he informed me about the leak. I designed this part as a rough draft to show him the way that I would approach fixing it. The next thing I knew he had installed it and by golly it worked although I need to finalize the dimensions and have since been thinking of additional improvements I want to incorporate. Simple revisions that will enhance it a tad more. For instance I want to add a feature that will allow either a wire tie (or clamp) to compress the area around the wires more efficiently etc. If you wouldn't mind helping me by measuring a few things and shooting the dimensions to me I will revise the design for a better FFF (form, fit and function) as I have no way of measuring what I had intended to measure as it's all sealed over now hahaha. I will then email the revised STL file to you and the CAD file if you want it for whatever reason so you can slice it and dice it and hopefully fix what appears to be a common ongoing problem with Corvettes in general. I don't have the energy or desire to market such an item although if that is something you want to pursue by all means go for it. If the folks you know are able to fix theirs as well, put a feather in your cap and someday perhaps you can share this story to whomever has an ear for such things and thank goodness there are still some of us out here that relish in being able to help with no reward other than a smile for a job well done. Once I have some actual dimensions, I'll send you the revised STL a day or so afterwards then it's all yours. I need the OD of the wires (decimal please +/- .010" if possible) as well as the diameter of the boss that captures the wires to get them through the hole in the rack and how far it protrudes from the face of the rack. That's all I ask. If that's easily done great. I've attached the STL file so you can print one in the meantime and tell me to go **** up a rope as far as dimensions are concerned hahaha! No worries either way lol!
Best regards,
Michael R Nix
P.S. I also have some tips concerning the best feed rate and layer thickness as well for this piece and a little something I learned about a material to use on top of the platen to eliminate any/all adhesion issues in order to lay down darn near a perfect first layer every time with just about any material if you're interested. If you haven't had any problems with adhesion then I'll just shut ma pie hole! I've certainly said enough at this point thank you!"


".40mm nozzle, Speed 10 (slow), nozzle temp 228 bed temp 0. Run it small diameter with the holes on the platen with a 3mm brim otherwise it wants to print into thin air at some point as it starts to print the smaller dia. if you start it the other way. The material I use on the platen is .06" thick G10 ( an epoxy/fiberglass material) everything sticks to it and when it's done printing simply lift the part off no issues. Works the same on every material I've printed with.
M. Nix"

 

Thank you sir, I have no intention of doing anything with the file except to make one and place it on
my randp.
Tanks to you and all on this forum.

Dennis

 

Also I have measured the rubber with with wires and here is the pic: