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C5 will not crank or start!!!!

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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 05:00 PM
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Default C5 will not crank or start!!!!

Hi everyone i recently got an issue where i parked my c5 vette now it doesnt crank or want to start. I already bought a new battery and had it checked its good. The starter is also good because i tried jumping the TDR purple and red wires and the car started cranking over. Im lost on what to do next can you help me. Thanks 🙏
Edit: checked the yellow wire and im receiving 12v

Last edited by PeterIcaza; Nov 22, 2020 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 06:52 PM
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What year, what mods, auto or manual ??...when you put the key in the ignition does the security light go out after a few seconds ??...if OK and being that your down at the TDR anyway I’d see if you have power coming into the yellow wire at the TDR with key in start...if not you have to work upstream to the clutch pedal switch or PNP switch. The “load” side of your starting system is OK you need to concentrate on the “control” side !!
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Old Nov 22, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
What year, what mods, auto or manual ??...when you put the key in the ignition does the security light go out after a few seconds ??...if OK and being that your down at the TDR anyway I’d see if you have power coming into the yellow wire at the TDR with key in start...if not you have to work upstream to the clutch pedal switch or PNP switch. The “load” side of your starting system is OK you need to concentrate on the “control” side !!
Hi thanks for the quick reply its a bone stock 1998 auto c5. When i put the key in the gauges dont do its normal cycle at all. The security light doesnt even come on either as well as my trunk open button doesnt work anymore. The only lights that come on the dash is the airbag light which flashes a few times and the cel which stays on.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 09:19 AM
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You say you bypassed the TDR relay, but if the coil on the TDR is not being energized by the BCM there is not ignition pulse. When you put the key in does the security light on the dash go out, if not the pellet (resistor) is not being read by the by the BCM and the system will not allow the car to crank or start. First thing is to try the spare key and see if it starts, if it starts the pellet is damaged, next see if the whiskers in the switch are damaged, if so that's not a difficult replacement just tedious.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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Did you check for ground on the yellow black striped wire at the TDR socket? The BCM provides a ground to the TDR if the cars key resistor pellet is being read correctly. Hate to say this, but based on gauges not cycling and loss of almost all indicators you may have a bad BCM, or no communication between BCM and IPC, it could also be a serial data highway problem which the way all the cars modules communicate with each other.
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Old Nov 23, 2020 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
Did you check for ground on the yellow black striped wire at the TDR socket? The BCM provides a ground to the TDR if the cars key resistor pellet is being read correctly. Hate to say this, but based on gauges not cycling and loss of almost all indicators you may have a bad BCM, or no communication between BCM and IPC, it could also be a serial data highway problem which the way all the cars modules communicate with each other.
How can i test the bcm? Would the bcm being bad also be related to the dic buttons jot working as well as the interior lighting going out completely when i turn on the headlights?
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 10:33 AM
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The most common problem with serial highway problems is a bad connection on the connector between the doors and the car itself. There is a rubber accordion between the car door and car, shake and wiggle that accordion and check if that clears up the problem, if it does you will have to repair a bad contact between the pins and sockets of the two connectors.
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 10:39 AM
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Sorry I did not say aything about the BCM, I don't know how to test the BCM, I believe that there is some business that in fact can test and repair, or can sell you a BCM.
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Old Nov 24, 2020 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartinez
Sorry I did not say aything about the BCM, I don't know how to test the BCM, I believe that there is some business that in fact can test and repair, or can sell you a BCM.
the bcm itself isnt bad. I was rechecking my fuses today. And when i pulled fuse 25 out sure enough it was broken and when i put a new one in it broke as well so i removed the ipc and voila the car started. So im thinking its a bad ipc or bad ipc harness. Would that be the reason my DIC buttons dont work as well as when i turn my headlights on the interior lighting shuts off?
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Old Nov 25, 2020 | 11:04 AM
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Seems like you have a short in the IPC, and yes that's why your DIC buttons don't work, not sure if your interior lighting shutting off when the headlights are turned on are related to the IPC.
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Old Dec 11, 2020 | 09:40 PM
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Thanks for the good info, particularly from mmartinez. I have much the same issues (will not crank), but dealing with a wrecked '03, hit hard in the pax door. Door removed and disconnected 2 large plug-in connectors in the rubber sleeve. Key into ignition does NOT turn off security light on dash so VATS is NOT reading key chip, right? Both keys meter at 524-6 ohms so it's a VATS #2, right? Got the starter to turn over by jumping the red and purple wires at the Theft Deterrent relay, but no voltage of any kind on the yellow/black or yellow wires. Checked relay for functionality and works fine bench testing. Doubled checked all fuses. Car was running at the time of the collision. Cleared all codes, after writing them down, still nothing. Pulled ignition switch, opened up green cover, cleaned all contact, didn't looked burned. If I do a series of resistors close to 525 in a "VATS bypass" on the 2-connector white wires, security light should go out, right? Thanks for your patience. This is my 6th Vette, but it's got me stumped. Hate to start throwing parts at it, but I'll start with the resistors, move to the ignition switch, park/neutral after switch, etc.
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