Even if you have 400hp to the engine, you will still loose to Z06. Becuase Z06 have different gearing in it's MN12 transmission. Here is what I recommend:

1) A proven 224 duration cam.
2) Long Tube headers.
3) 4.10 rear-end.
4) A proven air box like Vortex, Blackwing, Vararam...
5) If your car is 2001 & below, get LS6 intake.
6) Used Z06 suspension components or Bilstein Sport shocks with beefy sway bars. Don't get coil-overs (with exception of DRM pieces), they don't seem to work well.
7) Tires that will match Z06's F1 Supercar tires. I recommend Kuhmo MX.

Also, the price you quoted is only parts. Don't forget the labor cost. Also, parts never work individually. For if part A gives you 10 hp and part B gives you 10 hp, the combine HP may not be 20 hp. Rice calculations never work :jester

 

The minor bolt-ons just will not do it. Install heads/cam/intake/LT headers/tuning and you will be blowing away a stock Z06.

 

Wow 420 rwhp would be great (isn't that over 500hp?? Hello Viper). Would I need a program like LS1 edit to tune in these changes? I guess that would blow the budget up around $3500??? What does this setup idle like? Would this be too hard on my stock bottom end?

 

Now, I have removed the parts of this quote that I disagree with. For the most part, however, I agree with what bennlliwang said. If your goal is only to obtain Z06 like numbers, then you can forget the heads and just go w/ the CAM swap (cheaper). If your goal is to be faster than the Z, go w/ head and Cam. He is also right about the difference in the M12 vx. the M6. You will need to get better rear-end gears.

 

Hey, that is not my quote. I didn't quote heads and cam. :confused:

I see that you took out my long tube headers, suspension, and tires. What is it you are dissagreeing with? To make a stock C5 comparible to a Z06, don't you think the handling and braking should be upgraded as well?

You really don't need heads that costs over $2000 to go faster then Z06. I have a mild cam, long tubes, and not ported heads and I am at 383 wheel hp. That is around 450 hp at the engine. I have read quite a few posts on cars with heads/cam but stock exhaust manifold making less rwhp then 383...

Also, with 15% drive train loss, 400hp is 340hp at the wheel. Which I have seem peole with complete bolt-ons (everything!) and a super healthy engine pull that number. But that is if you believe all Z06 makes only 405hp ;)

 

Oh yeah. I did modify your quote. At first, I only removed what I didn't want in there.

As to your question, Z06's typically dyno at around 350 rwhp. It doesn't take much to get a regular C5 to that level. Furthermore, a professional driver will run the car 12.5 in the 1/4 mile, on average. It is not difficult to get a regular C5 to consistantly run that time with an amateur driver.

So be be at the same level as a Z:
1. Cam Swap ($1300)
2. Headers ($1000)
3. Gears ($1000)

VOILA. . .regular C5 quick as a Z. . .for much less $$$$.


:boxing By the way, I shouldn't have taken out the headers. . . :thumbs:

Oh yeah, as for the traction. . .you can run mid to low 12 second times on run craps!!! From what I hear NITTO 555 is the way to go.

Handling. . .screw it who cares. . .can you tell a huge diff? I couldn't, but then again it's not something that I particularly care about. My C5 handles like a champ. In fairness, I did not drive an '02 Z, I test drove the '01???

 

Here is all you need good cam, LTH, Bilstein Sports, T-1 bars, air box, period. I have run a bunch road racing and down the straights my car would beat the 02's. With the mods above it will out handle them too. I guarantee it. I did not need a rear. Exhaust is worth very little HP on a setup like this.

 

Yeap, on the power side, we are thinking exactly alike.

On the tires, I would not recommend Nitto 555. I had them for 1 1/2 years and they suck, the rubber is now hard as rock. Very very slippery on my car, and in Vegas, the best 60 foot on Nittos are 2.2X, no matter what I do. My favorite tires are now Kuhmo MX street tires. Get this, I rev'ed the car to 2500 rpm, with 30 psi in the tires, I hammered the gass and dropped the cluth. And the car bogged, that's right, it bogged!!! I didn't slip the cluth cause it is still stock and its kind of weak. My best pass far is 1.9x 60 foot with 3.5k rpm drop with 27 psi. Next time, I am gonna try 20 psi and 3.5k launch and see what happens. By the way, I am new to drag racing (3 tims to the strip) and I still have a lot to learn.

My car had base suspension and it sucked major ****. It was way too soft and the ride was too cushy for me. I currently have Bilstein sports, Z06 sway bars, and lowered. I like the current set up but never tested it against a Z06 in the twisties.

 

A gear swap (3.90's or 4.10's) for $1000 isn't gonna happen :nonod:

I paid $1200 just for the gears from Andy (cheapest I found) and I'm paying $500 for the install. So $1700 should be added into your final numbers.

 

Yes, his numbers are probably more accurate. I haven't priced 3.90's or 4.10's. I bought used and I paid $400 for my gears and I am paying $400 for install (gears + TC).

 

One correction: 2001's had LS6 intake, no need to buy another.

 

They are the same :(

 

I can slightly pull from stock 02's and 03's with my mods in the sig.

 

Check your dealer, there is a LS1 performance package, which includes the heads, cam, intake. It is the ZO6 and with an 02 one only needs heads and cam, they quoted me 3800 and with full factory warranty. As far as just bolt ons as you discribed the most gain I've ever seen is to about 340 rwhp with every thing including cats removed. Check Charlie Hoyts web site he has all the results from the 3 to 4 dyno days. Radue has the highest with all the bolt ons you can get, see above.

 

My friend Brad has a stock 02 Z06 and I have a 98 A4 with bolt-on's gears and converter and from a 10 mph roll till we shut down at about 110 mph I stayed at his door all the way. The only time he would pull on me was when his screamin engine was above 6000 rpm up to his redline and when he would shift gears I would gain the difference back everytime. And this kid could drive that 6 speed. He told me he raced alot of cars including a TT 911 and had never lost a race. My car has a Vortex, WCC modified MAF, LS6 intake, Crane 1.8 rockers, TPIS headers, Bassani mufflers and X-pipe with no cats and O2 sims, HPP3, 3:42's, Yank SY3500. The car has run 12.936 with a 2.047 60 ft at 2700ft., with bad air and 90 degree temps. These LS1's take really nicely to bolt-on's especially if you have an A4 and you change the gears and install a Yank SY3500. You can get real close to Z06 performance with bolt-on's. Future mod's, B1 cam which I picked up from C5Vert and ported heads. The car also has a 100 horse shot only when required. Brad and I had raced earlier that same night. From the lights we both spun hard but he hooked before me and got out in front by about a car length. I tried catching him but he had me, so about the time I hit 3rd gear I decided to juice him and when we shut down at about 110 mph I was about 1.5 to 2 cars ahead. When we stopped to talk he said what the f--- was under my hood, so I told him about the juice. Damn I love that stuff. I would have hurt him bad if I would have squeezed him from the start.

 

:iagree:

I agree w/ FineLee!!! A C5 w/ bolt-on's, TC and gears should have no problem running with a stock Z06. The right combination of bolt-on's, w/ the SY3500 and gears should make a later model C5 run consistant 12 sec. 1/4 mi. times. :cheers:

It really comes down to what you want the HP for? Do you want it so that you can say "I have 400 HP?" Or, do you want to set your car up to be fast? All the HP in the world doesn't matter if you can't put it to the pavement. A dyno is certainly important for tuning, but the track times are probably more important.

Take a look at the Viper vs. the Z. The Viper has about 100 more HP, but it ain't any faster!!!!

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: Bottom line. . .ALL VETTES ROCK!!!

 

These are good numbers and good price on heads/cam I'll be impressed however if they are getting these numbers without some exhaust mods and certainly some intake mods. No the bottom end will hold up quite well to this kind of power, its adding another 100+rwhp with a blower etc that starts scaring the crap out of the bottom end. Yes you will have to retune for timing and fuel/air after the setup but you will be very happy with it and it will put you close to stock viper numbers and performance. If you have a few bucks left over you may want the undertow pulley while they are replacing the cam it will save a lot of labor cost later to install one.

 

damn, all these comparison Z06 times are pathetic :cry

:D


[Modified by BLU-BY-U, 7:21 AM 12/8/2002]

 

Not pathetic, fast!
:lurk:

 

I'm getting some 4.10's from Andy next week and they were $1195 plus his install price is $350. Of course I have to drive about 7 hrs each way, but maybe his Tequila shrimp will make it worth the drive.