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I have a 1997 C5 Corvette and I’m having a problem with my clutch. This car is used for pleasure and is not raced. I was leaving Turkey Run in Daytona Beach and just after pulling out of the parking space I shifted into 2nd gear and the clutch stayed on the floor. After pushing and pulling the clutch pedal a few times it started to work. I had a four hour ride home. After about a half hour of two lane highway the clutch started acting up again. I was able to get the car home by shifting without the clutch. Now I have the car up in the air. When I first opened the reservoir the fluid was very dirty. There was sludge on the bottom of the reservoir. I removed the fluid, cleaned out the reservoir and filled it with fresh fluid. Now I’ve bled the clutch about thirty times. The fluid is coming through clean now. The clutch is still not returning from the floor. Note - When I first opened the bleeder on the slave cylinder before pumping the pedal the fluid ran out of the valve freely. Now after bleeding the system I can’t get the fluid to come out of the bleeder valve without tightening the valve, pump it up and hold, open the valve. Because the fluid was so dirty I thought the dirty fluid was the cause based on reading some posts on You Tube. Now I’m leaning towards the master cylinder. Thank you in advance for your thoughts…………
'97, so the rubber seals are probably at least 24 years old. As David73 asked, how many miles on the clutch? Not sure if it maters to the hydraulics, but it could keep costs a little lower if you don't have to change the clutch itself, but it sure sounds to me as though the slave is binding. You can try a new master without having to pull the torque tube out, but I'd be very surprised if it truly fixed the problem. Z06 master and slave, with a remote bleeder, is probably where you'll end up.
I've had this happen on multiple vehicles, not just my Vette. Its either the slave or the master. I'd start with a Tick performance adjustable master, it's a good upgrade anyway. If its still an issue your going to have to pull the transaxle, torque tube etc. to address the slave. Might as well just throw a new clutch kit in at that point.
I've had this happen on multiple vehicles, not just my Vette. Its either the slave or the master. I'd start with a Tick performance adjustable master, it's a good upgrade anyway. If its still an issue your going to have to pull the transaxle, torque tube etc. to address the slave. Might as well just throw a new clutch kit in at that point.
After fighting with this on-and-off for a year, the pedal finally went down and stayed down.
So...yeah, at some point bite the bullet and get it done.
After fighting with this on-and-off for a year, the pedal finally went down and stayed down.
So...yeah, at some point bite the bullet and get it done.
Its the clutch, but i hope you get lucky with changing parts. If you go with tick mc start working out your left leg. Don't get it. There,s 10s of thousands of vetts with stock mc that work fine. And u really didn't bleed the whole system from mc to slave. but i guess its cheaper to toss 400 hundred then over 1k if u dont do the work yourself. JMO
Its the clutch, but i hope you get lucky with changing parts. If you go with tick mc start working out your left leg. Don't get it. There,s 10s of thousands of vetts with stock mc that work fine. And u really didn't bleed the whole system from mc to slave. but i guess its cheaper to toss 400 hundred then over 1k if u dont do the work yourself. JMO
I agree it's the clutch; that's why I'm doing it all at once as I said - I ain't just "changing parts". But I wouldn't just put back in a stock master. I've driven quite a few C5s with the Tick master and slave with a mild clutch and felt no difference in pedal pressure; this is a function of the pressure plate - the cylinders are just moving hydraulic fluid. There are a ton of reports of the problem, and it seems to be mostly ones that get driven a lot or get driven hard - as mine is. Not sure exactly what your point is.
this is a function of the pressure plate - the cylinders are just moving hydraulic fluid.
you're ignoring the basic function of hydraulics...the designed in mechanical advantage. The usual Tilton MC people put in our cars have a larger piston and therefore lower hydraulic advantage which increases pedal force on the clutch.
you're ignoring the basic function of hydraulics...the designed in mechanical advantage. The usual Tilton MC people put in our cars have a larger piston and therefore lower hydraulic advantage which increases pedal force on the clutch.
Not ignoring anything; the Tick bore is 7/8" vs. 3/4" for stock, which is a minor change. Again - I've driven a fair number of cars with these installed and felt no practical difference.
If you have different personal experience - i.e. a significantly higher pedal pressure with an identical clutch, I'm all ears.
Strictly by the numbers, the tick piston area is 36% larger than stock which equates to a 36% increase in pedal force. I haven't measured anything but I drove a friend's car that has it on a stock LS1 clutch and it was definitely not worth the added effort. I have an LS7 clutch and stock hydraulics and see no reason to change anything on my particular car.
Strictly by the numbers, the tick piston area is 36% larger than stock which equates to a 36% increase in pedal force. I haven't measured anything but I drove a friend's car that has it on a stock LS1 clutch and it was definitely not worth the added effort. I have an LS7 clutch and stock hydraulics and see no reason to change anything on my particular car.
So you felt significantly higher pedal pressure? I'm comfortable with my decision - if I'm wrong, I'll post about it. Not everyone drives their C5 the same way.
So you felt significantly higher pedal pressure? I'm comfortable with my decision - if I'm wrong, I'll post about it. Not everyone drives their C5 the same way.
I'm not going to tell u what mc to buy but just wanted to give u my experience with the tick. I fell into the tick mc 10yrs ago becauce people swore on it. So after 10yrs and my left leg looks pumped with steroids lol I had a leaky seal on the tick mc so I figured I want to try stock again. Out of all my mods to get my car well well over 1000hp putting the stock mc back in was the best thing I ever did for the car. I have twin disk. Just wanted to throw that out there. Maybe buy a cam instead. jmo
So, really everyone's right here. Yes the Tick MC increases pedal "weight". (force to depress the clutch) It also causes the clutch to engage quicker (ie. over less pedal travel) But the biggest advantage to me is the ability to adjust the disengage/catch point with after market clutches. This gives the driver the ability to set a comfortable pedal heigh. And my experience with the Tick MC is that the disengage point was more consistent then my experience with the stock component. Now, if i spent a lot of time in high traffic areas or a lot of stop and go traffic then I might feel differently especially because my new clutch has a much stronger spring then stock. But for drivers feel, throwing the car around mountain roads and some high performance driving I personally really like the Tick MC. Its not a miracle cure for clutch or shift problems but worth while. Just my 2 cents.
So you felt significantly higher pedal pressure? I'm comfortable with my decision - if I'm wrong, I'll post about it. Not everyone drives their C5 the same way.
I have no way to tell you you're wrong at all. If you're happy with it thats all that matters in the end, but yes comparing my own car to my friend's car was a completely different experience. To me the Tick added no measurable benefit and was notably stiffer vs my car with the higher performance setup. LS6 with LS7 clutch vs stock LS1 on a stock clutch with tick. As always YMMV but tick is expensive, doesn't mount without extra work and doesn't improve driveability or reliability.
Got the car back today with the Tick and Monster Stage 2 clutch. I'd say the pedal is stiffer maybe...twice the effort? Having driven a lot of different performance cars I don't find it problematic, but it probably is fair to say that for a casual daily driver the effort may be more than what folks want. It's certainly not a workout like some. I haven't looked at the Monster pressure plate vs. the LuK, so I can't "do the math" on how much is directly attributable to the Tick vs. the pressure plate itself.
The pedal height is perfect, the engagement is silky smooth and with much less travel. I was able to do multiple, back-to-back full-throttle runs through 4th with no issues at all - which wasn't even the case when I first got it. I'm happy with my choice.
Sorry for not clearingfing. I drive in chicago traffic downtown. 17 miles stop and go both ways. WITH Out traffic 25min. With traffic 1hr 15 to 1hr 30min.
Last edited by helga203; Jan 11, 2021 at 11:30 AM.