Timing Crank Torquing
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Joined: Dec 2020
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Timing Crank Torquing
I am swapping the oil pump on my engine with it still in the car, so I decided to swap timing gear while I was there. I purchased the Cloyes Race Billet True Roller Timing Set 9-3658TX3, to install, I am using the old sprocket and the crank bolt but it seems tight. The crank is turning while i am trying to press it on with the above mentioned method, is this normal? Should I be concerned? Can I just complete the rotation to get it back in time, or is it not 1-1 turns?
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Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Oregon
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I have seen posts where that method works. Mine is a auto so I needed this tool and it should work on your car also
Last edited by Smoken1; Jan 13, 2021 at 04:58 PM.
Melting Slicks
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Melting Slicks
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From: Northville, MI
The only time you might run into a problem with a manuel in 6th gear and e-brake is if you are putting in a stock crank bolt. When tightening the bolt from the 37lb torque another 240 degrees you can often exceed 300 ft-lbs of torque and the crank will turn. Then you have to lock the flywheel. That is why most will use the aftermarket crank bolt.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
The only time you might run into a problem with a manuel in 6th gear and e-brake is if you are putting in a stock crank bolt. When tightening the bolt from the 37lb torque another 240 degrees you can often exceed 300 ft-lbs of torque and the crank will turn. Then you have to lock the flywheel. That is why most will use the aftermarket crank bolt.
But I like to be fully prepared, when tackling a job of that magnitude, so when I replaced my HB and timing chain, I purchased the crankshaft locking tool. The only "issue" with it, is that you have to remove the starter, in order to secure it in place.
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I bought one of these too. Its only about 15 dollars on ebay and its guaranteed to keep the engine from turning.
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I'll probably take a lot of heat for what I'm going to say 
, but here goes......I have a 2000 A4 Vert, so I have no 6th gear. I've had my balancer off, and back on, my current LS7, and a different engine that was in it previously, at least 3 times on each engine. The balancer bolt, at least an ARP bolt, will end the nonsense of torquing and a special torque angle gauge, or 6th gear torquing, etc. I have used only my 1/2" air impact, set at max torque. You're looking at threads so large, they would be hard to almost impossible to strip, unless maybe using an "Earthquake" impact. My balancer has never slipped, come loose, and I have never come close to stripping these threads. It works, and continues to work, for me. But hey, do what you're comfortable with. I can't guarantee anything for anyone. Sure, hook up a 3/4" drive impact with 1,100 ft/lbs of torque, your probably gonna have trouble. Just my 2 cents......
, but here goes......I have a 2000 A4 Vert, so I have no 6th gear. I've had my balancer off, and back on, my current LS7, and a different engine that was in it previously, at least 3 times on each engine. The balancer bolt, at least an ARP bolt, will end the nonsense of torquing and a special torque angle gauge, or 6th gear torquing, etc. I have used only my 1/2" air impact, set at max torque. You're looking at threads so large, they would be hard to almost impossible to strip, unless maybe using an "Earthquake" impact. My balancer has never slipped, come loose, and I have never come close to stripping these threads. It works, and continues to work, for me. But hey, do what you're comfortable with. I can't guarantee anything for anyone. Sure, hook up a 3/4" drive impact with 1,100 ft/lbs of torque, your probably gonna have trouble. Just my 2 cents......