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Hoping all you experts out there can tell me what trouble I'm going to have putting an LS2 or LS3 engine in my '99 coupe. Things like - Are they direct bolt-in's? What about wiring/throttle body interchangeability? Will the '99 drivetrain take the increased power? Can I do this from the top? Etc.
Yes you can do it from the top. You need to drop the front cradle about 4” while supporting the engine.
Oregon Ron
Originally Posted by Speedy007
Honestly I would go ls3 ....because they are newer blocks ....just my opinion though
That's my thread that Ron is talking about. There is a good article that was posted to my thread. I am doing an LS3 swap. But if you read that article you will see it is best to do the engine drop from the bottom. My buddy is building the exact stand that is pictured in the photo's. It definitely is going to be fun and with all the upgrades I am doing its gonna be about 27k. But this is my Unicorn car. I have always wanted a C5 WHITE either FRC or Z06. An I will be keeping this car for a very long time
Honestly I would go ls3 ....because they are newer blocks ....just my opinion though
I agree on LS3. Not gonna be a super cheap swap regardless. So I'd for sure go with LS3 if it was me. Only 30hp difference, but I think the LS3 has a lot more potential for less money in the long run. My .02. Good luck......
Thanks very much! So you're confident that your driveline couplers, trans, differential, axles, etc will stand the extra torque and horsepower? That is a big concern ofr me because I don't want to have my LS1 changed out for an LS3 with 85 more HP and twist out my transmission (6M) or axles! My '99 is pretty much a virgin as far as I can tell... I'll have to have someone change out the engines, so I want to acquire and provide as much of the necessary new stuff as possible.
I run much more hp then stock in my ls1 ... 3x then what it came with factory. I say tuning matters most but not every car is the same just try to use quality parts .. For my car the transmission and rear end is all bone stock with the exception of a clutch twin disk dual friction stage 3 .... 9.5 inch disk size, shaved and balanced billet fly wheel...
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 19, 2021 at 03:17 PM.
I run much more hp then stock in my ls1 ... 3x then what it came with factory. I say tuning matters most but not every car is the same just try to use quality parts .. For my car the transmission and rear end is all bone stock with the exception of a clutch twin disk dual friction stage 3 .... 9.5 inch disk size, shaved and balanced billet fly wheel...
I'm not unhappy with the performance I have now, just need to replace the engine for my own piece of mind; I wouldn't know what to do with a thousand horsepower!! Good to know I don't need to replace everything else though. I'll consider the driveshaft couplers; maybe the clutch.
Thanks again to all..................................... Oregon Dan
Is there anything wrong with your engine? no sense in spending that kind of loot for a piece of mind just saying ...not worth it ls1 is a die hard motor .
Last edited by Speedy007; Jan 20, 2021 at 01:48 PM.
Thanks very much! So you're confident that your driveline couplers, trans, differential, axles, etc will stand the extra torque and horsepower? That is a big concern ofr me because I don't want to have my LS1 changed out for an LS3 with 85 more HP and twist out my transmission (6M) or axles! My '99 is pretty much a virgin as far as I can tell... I'll have to have someone change out the engines, so I want to acquire and provide as much of the necessary new stuff as possible.
The C5 driveline is pretty durable. At least the one in my 2000 Vert has been. I've had 600+crank horsepower yanking thru a totally stock drivetrain, including my 4L60E. Only thing that isn't stock is the 3,200rpm stall Yank converter. 2 different 427 engines between the framerails. Both built. 1st one was a darton sleeved LS1 block, back before the LS7 blocks were available, and the current LS7. NEVER had any problems with anything......YET, lol. Sure, if I put really sticky DRs, or slicks on it, with a 4,000 stall converter, sooner or later, somethings gonna break. So far, I've been lucky. I have run Michelin 315-30-18 Pilot Sport PS2s on the rear for a long time. They grip as well as you can reasonably expect. They aren't DRs, but aren't super hard, either. I'm not certain what year GM did some upgrades to the torque tube, but I think it was sometime during the 2000 MY. I have a later 2000, I think it was built in late March, or April of 2000. Since I've never had problems with it (YET, again!), I'm guessing upgrades happened sometime in the 2000 MY. Now please excuse me while I find a LOT of wood to knock on, and stars to wish upon after dark!!