Safe Operating Temperature
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Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 55
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From: Edwards, CO
Safe Operating Temperature
Good day to you all!
Relatively new C5 Z06 owner. Building car for NASA TT. A few general cooling questions.
First of all, the car has a custom cam; FAST intake; LS2 Throttle Body; ATI damper; CAI; Headers; exhaust; RPM Tranny and Diff.
The car is making 422 whp...
I performed a practice session at my local track; 50 degrees, 7500 ft of altitude (Colorado). Ran laps for about 5-10 minutes.
Before I go into the modification rabbit hole of spending unnecessary money, what are safe temperatures for water and oil?
I saw water temps around 235, oil temps around 265-270 before I decided to back off.
I got a tranny temp warning?
I’m getting a cage, seats, harness, and a tune for starters...
Thanks!
Relatively new C5 Z06 owner. Building car for NASA TT. A few general cooling questions.
First of all, the car has a custom cam; FAST intake; LS2 Throttle Body; ATI damper; CAI; Headers; exhaust; RPM Tranny and Diff.
The car is making 422 whp...
I performed a practice session at my local track; 50 degrees, 7500 ft of altitude (Colorado). Ran laps for about 5-10 minutes.
Before I go into the modification rabbit hole of spending unnecessary money, what are safe temperatures for water and oil?
I saw water temps around 235, oil temps around 265-270 before I decided to back off.
I got a tranny temp warning?
I’m getting a cage, seats, harness, and a tune for starters...
Thanks!
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From: Cunningham, TN
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235 is about as high as I would be comfortable with my water temperature to be at. I’m surprised it got that warm at 50 degrees ambient temperature though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,655
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From: Dallas TX
If I was mainly tracking a car it would FOR SURE have a Dewitts radiator(straight radiator, no additional coolers built in) in it AND a Lingenfelter oil cooler. The lingenfelter cooler mounts to the cradle and not in front of the radiator.
I would also likely run a Big Mouth performance air dam to really ram the air into the radiator...
Then I would run some type of hood vent in order to get the heat out...
I would also likely run a Big Mouth performance air dam to really ram the air into the radiator...
Then I would run some type of hood vent in order to get the heat out...
NCM Lifetime Member
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Cunningham, TN
2021 Corvette of the Year - Modified
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C5 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
St. Jude Donor '18 thru '26
235 won’t hurt anything, if that’s as high as it gets.
I’m just a street driver though.
You may want to check with the guys in the Autocross and Road racing forum and see what their advice is.
I’m just a street driver though.
You may want to check with the guys in the Autocross and Road racing forum and see what their advice is.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,204
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From: South Florida
For GASOLINE applications with medium(9-10) compression ratio in NON-forced induction racing applications at 100KPA (1 bar of atmosphere)
The ideal water temp range is 206*F to 217*F , oil 210*F-224*F
IAT less than 110*F
Basically keep your engine coolant fluids(oil water) near the boiling point of water for 1atm, and try to keep the oil temp low and near water temp.
Engine oil is designed to work best when fully warm and the 205-210*F oil temp range is a minimum safe recommended temp.
The ideal water temp range is 206*F to 217*F , oil 210*F-224*F
IAT less than 110*F
Basically keep your engine coolant fluids(oil water) near the boiling point of water for 1atm, and try to keep the oil temp low and near water temp.
Engine oil is designed to work best when fully warm and the 205-210*F oil temp range is a minimum safe recommended temp.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Houston TX
That sounds about right for both, but a little surprising they're that high with ambient temp at 50. I've seen very similar fluid temps but with ambient in the 90 degree range.
I added an oil cooler and saw around 250 at the track last time (September in Houston).
I added an oil cooler and saw around 250 at the track last time (September in Houston).
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I agree with temps being pretty warm for 50° ambient. OP, do you have the stock radiator? I also agree on the DeWitts. You may find a good, cheaper radiator, but you won't find a better one. I've had one for 15 years now, cooling a 427, and with a 160° Stat, and a 25% underdrive balancer, I rarely see 200° running 80mph down I-75 in Florida in 85° temps. Sometimes hits 210° running up to around 140mph on a lonely section of freeway! It's also an A4, and I do have a trans cooler, but the radiator is also helping cool the trans. On my dyno tune, the dyno operator said it never got over 190°, fwiw. Hope this helps......
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,763
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For 50 degrees I think the water temps are too high....7500' elevation doesn't help either. The problem is you'll be at 260 degrees water temps on a 80 degree summer day.
I would definitely would check the following first:
1. Is the bottom air dam scoop in place to direct airflow to the cooling stack?
2. Is the A/C condenser and radiator clean? I get at least a quarter cup of sand and debris out of the two of them after just one track day and I don't street drive the car....all track miles.
3. Make sure the air flow is going through the radiator stack and not getting pushed out the sides and around the stack.
4. Double check your tune to make sure you're not running lean...I would think going on the rich side may cost a couple of hp but drop the temps at least 10 degrees
5. Maybe look into doing a coolant cross over on the rear cylinders to help balance out some of the temps and flow.
These are minimal cost things to try first before you go to an aftermarket radiator, etc. Regardless of the radiator, it can only cool if air flow is going through it to dissipate the BTU's so make sure the system is getting air in and out of the radiator.
Good luck!!
I would definitely would check the following first:
1. Is the bottom air dam scoop in place to direct airflow to the cooling stack?
2. Is the A/C condenser and radiator clean? I get at least a quarter cup of sand and debris out of the two of them after just one track day and I don't street drive the car....all track miles.
3. Make sure the air flow is going through the radiator stack and not getting pushed out the sides and around the stack.
4. Double check your tune to make sure you're not running lean...I would think going on the rich side may cost a couple of hp but drop the temps at least 10 degrees
5. Maybe look into doing a coolant cross over on the rear cylinders to help balance out some of the temps and flow.
These are minimal cost things to try first before you go to an aftermarket radiator, etc. Regardless of the radiator, it can only cool if air flow is going through it to dissipate the BTU's so make sure the system is getting air in and out of the radiator.
Good luck!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 747
For 50 degrees I think the water temps are too high....7500' elevation doesn't help either. The problem is you'll be at 260 degrees water temps on a 80 degree summer day.
I would definitely would check the following first:
1. Is the bottom air dam scoop in place to direct airflow to the cooling stack?
2. Is the A/C condenser and radiator clean? I get at least a quarter cup of sand and debris out of the two of them after just one track day and I don't street drive the car....all track miles.
3. Make sure the air flow is going through the radiator stack and not getting pushed out the sides and around the stack.
4. Double check your tune to make sure you're not running lean...I would think going on the rich side may cost a couple of hp but drop the temps at least 10 degrees
5. Maybe look into doing a coolant cross over on the rear cylinders to help balance out some of the temps and flow.
These are minimal cost things to try first before you go to an aftermarket radiator, etc. Regardless of the radiator, it can only cool if air flow is going through it to dissipate the BTU's so make sure the system is getting air in and out of the radiator.
Good luck!!
I would definitely would check the following first:
1. Is the bottom air dam scoop in place to direct airflow to the cooling stack?
2. Is the A/C condenser and radiator clean? I get at least a quarter cup of sand and debris out of the two of them after just one track day and I don't street drive the car....all track miles.
3. Make sure the air flow is going through the radiator stack and not getting pushed out the sides and around the stack.
4. Double check your tune to make sure you're not running lean...I would think going on the rich side may cost a couple of hp but drop the temps at least 10 degrees
5. Maybe look into doing a coolant cross over on the rear cylinders to help balance out some of the temps and flow.
These are minimal cost things to try first before you go to an aftermarket radiator, etc. Regardless of the radiator, it can only cool if air flow is going through it to dissipate the BTU's so make sure the system is getting air in and out of the radiator.
Good luck!!
From the factory, the high fans are set to come on at 235, so I wouldn't necessarily worry about hitting 235...but I agree on things changing once ambient temp are higher. Definitely check the health of your cooling system before "upgrading", by doing the things mentioned above. Also for consideration before moving to a larger radiator is correctly installing a set of Trackspec hood vents. Cheaper than a Dewitt's radiator and will help front end lift as well as cooling, but hood vents may or may not be your thing.
